Davesellars

So... After installing an RA drive on my EQ5 I thought I'd attach my DSLR and give it a go with some AP. Quite some years ago I used to have an NEQ6 and used StarTools etc. The "lowly" EQ5 is not bad... I polar aligned it fairly quickly and tracking with the single RA drive seems to be very accurate.

Taken with the 80ED using APT with a Canon 70D.
ISO 800, 30 second exposures. No darks nor light frames  (I seem the darks being important to get eliminate the internal DSLR noise or something. which may explain why I was battling with an horrendous amount of noise after stretching...)
80% of 21 frames stacked in DSS (I have forgotten everything here and going mostly by the recommendations in the software...)
StarTools - I have forgotten everything plus there's a whole bunch of new stuff since I last used it. (Completely lost!). Anyway, after clicking numerous random buttons I managed this...

12 hours ago, Steve Ward said:

Great start there.

I just use Canon's EOS Utility for focus monitoring and capture. 

The 'ghost' image is merely a misaligned frame or two .

Try running the frames through PIPP first to centre and crop the frames and then use Autostakkert instead of Reg for stacking (reserving Reg for the Wavelets function on the resulting stack)

Many thanks Steve!  I hadn't considered Autostakkert so I'll try that and hadn't heard of PIPP before.  Once I've got a bit of free time I'll re-process again using these to get used to them. 

I had a bit of spare time during lunch break, so I popped on my 80ED with the Canon 70D on the EQ5 (RA motor tracking) I managed to fit the GPC/barlow that came with with my binoviewers into the Canon T-ring adapter so I figured this was giving somewhere between 1.8-2x with the distance from the sensor.

Using APT for taking the photos at ISO 100 and 1/1000 exposure.

1st.. Focus is a pain in the butt. I could get close(ish) with liveview but then needed to switch to taking a photo then opening it and zoom in to make a judgement call on the focus level. I'm sure there's probably a better way but this took some time to do...

I got there near enough to at least start taking some images and took 45 in total before some clouds swarmed in. The seeing was pretty good it seemed at least.

Stacked and processed in Registax (50% best frames). The alignment seemed a bit wacky but lowered it to 1000 points. Some light wavelet processing which brought out the detail a bit clearer and then finished up in GIMP to colour the image which I think is better for the contrast (imho).

It's far from perfect and I'm not sure why I'm getting what looks like a super-imposed offset image on it after doing the stacking (but it was fairly light) so I left it at that.  Some nice granulation showing through at least!

APT (Astrophotography Tool) on laptop connects to your camera via USB and gives you the ability to use Live View.

2" Altair Astro prism diagonal for using with the 102ED and binoviewers.  My planetary and lunar observing setup is now complete.   

While using the binoviewers and turning both RA and Dec to a new location in the sky, I loosen up sufficiently the rotatable focuser and one hand on the BVs while I turn the scope into the new location - the BVs then naturally stay upright and then when in position tighten the rotatable focuser then lock the EQ5 axis and then use the slo-mo controls from there.  I would also do the same with a heavy eyepiece otherwise you could end up in a dangerous position.  With lighter eyepieces - obviously that's not necessary.

I learnt finding targets with the EQ5 mount (8" SCT on it) and bought an Alt/Az quite some years after.   The EQ has many benefits over the Alt/Az like not having balance issues and changing eyepieces without losing the position is so much easier (again more of an issue with heavier eyepieces).  Tracking whether you've got the motor or not is simpler imho.   As mentioned before by SkyBadger, as you read the RA and Dec lines of the atlas makes it very simple to find objects via star-hopping.   For example, I've found attempting to traverse the Virgo galaxies is so much easier and sure with the EQ than using my dob when I'm having to rely on small movements in some direction.

However, I like the Alt/Az for a lightweight setup with the 80ED and BCOs etc - this is a great combination for a quick setup and viewing clusters, larger objects or having a scan around.

Cleared here for a while so took the opportunity with the 102ED and viewing Jupiter with the binoviewers.  Seeing was quite good - the GRS very distinct with good intense colour at 120x and really nice fine detail coming through at 180x  Cloud over again just after 1am - it's pretty cold and damp tonight.

Unfortunately, I didn't get out last night after having been up all the previous night with a sick child so I was just too tired   At 10:30 the sky was covered in a mass of contrails.  I woke up once at 4am and stepped outside - the sky looked very transparent and Orion now visible, even with the Moon high up shining brightly, M42 was easily visible naked eye.  Orion should be perfectly positioned next month to make an attempt on the HH around 4am with a bit of luck...

I had this problem with my 8" SCT the first time that I attached an SCT diagonal to the 6.3 reducer - It possibly may be a function of differing temperatures from when it was put on to actual use with the cold constricting the threads which then caused it to "lock"....  I'm not sure.  However, a strap wrench (actually had to use two as the diagonal was stuck to the reducer so I needed something to grip strongly the reducer at the same time as the diagonal) sorted out the problem - after that I bought a Baader Click Clock visual back to avoid it happening again!  In fact, a strap wrench has saved my bacon many times for various things around the house so it's well worth having one!

Boa 13-2612 Standard Strap Wrench, 8 inch : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Good luck!

It was completely clouded out here as well..   

Heads up for tonight at 22:27 to 23:20.

I've currently got some cloud but hoping it will clear...

I'd imagine that you will be keeping the VX6L - This will most likely give you better planetary and lunar viewing on the majority of nights than going larger as just mentioned the seeing here in the UK is rather limits the aperture and besides the long focal length and easier / exact collimation that you can achieve with that should ensure always a good sharp image (seeing dependent!).  For DSOs though - you will really see the benefit from going large.  I went from 8" to 12" which for me was a massive jump in capability.  However, I've noticed that you haven't really stated if you're interested in DSOs which makes quite a difference to the decision...

While going to 8" from 6" will show a difference - you'd see considerably much more difference going directly to the 10" StellaLyra dob which is still well within your budget.

42 minutes ago, Pixies said:

I was observing Saturn with an  SLV 25mm last night. In a little F11 80M Vixen achromat (driven) it gave fantastic (if small) views. The 20mm was even better. Any more magnification gave poorer views

Nice collection you've got there!

The seeing was really poor here last night.  I was out for an hour or past midnight the sky was a just wobbly mess at 120x (was using binoviewers) and just seemed out of focus all the time.  The Moon was a little better at least so all was not lost.

I've just had first light with the SLV 25mm with a quick solar session although it's a touch hazy - It's amazingly comfortable!  Hopefully it will clear properly tonight to get some decent views.

25mm Vixen SLV bought from ABS - absolutely pristine!   I've not seen or used an SLV before - can't believe how small these things are!

It cleared quite reasonably last night around 11:30pm so got the 102ED out on the EQ5 with the newly fitted RA motor.  Good news was the tracking with the RA motor running was superb while observing Jupiter with the binoviewers.  Bad news was the seeing was completely abysmal and couldn't even make out the GRS that was apparently on show! - Most of the time the planet just looked out of focus and the air never steadied sufficiently.  I switched to the observing the Moon for a while which provide a nice but wobbly view with the 12.5mm orthos for 171x.  Not sure why I waited so long to get the RA motor as it's quite something just being able to soak up the view without it moving.

RA single axis motor drive controller for my EQ5.  Easily installed and ready as soon as the rain stops and clouds clears. 

Snap!   I've had my EQ5 mount since 2014 when I bought it to put an 8" SCT on - it's a real workhorse!  I much prefer using it an Alt/Az mount.  After all this time, I've just bought an RA motor to put on it though as when binoviewing with it's a pain having to nudge it constantly.  The F/7 102ED is a really great match with the EQ5 and agree with the rotatable focuser just makes using it a breeze.

Waiting to see if it clears again.  Got the 102ED out as it was so clear at 8:30pm  Went in for dinner and lo and behold it fully clouded over....

Incredibly a break from the cloud at around 11:30 so I managed to try out my new 12.5mm KK Fuyijama orthos in the binoviewer with the 80ED observing Jupiter for a little while.

If you have a Bortle 2/3 site to go to - Definitely go with a smaller scope that you can physically get there with...  A 4"-5" refractor at bortle 3 will vastly outperform a 8" reflector at bortle 5/6!

I'd recommend returning the 8" dob and either getting a 6" reflector on an alt/az mount ( Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P & AZ4 Mount Bundle | First Light Optics ) or even something like the Skywatcher 120ST refractor (although this is not that good for planets!)

I don't get that much time for solar observing but a Lunt Herschel Wedge would be great to have a permanently setup rig with my 80ED that's always ready to go.

Oh, and a 13mm Nagler...

Hi Dave.  I think the 12" dob is quite capable for planets but is also much more difficult to get the conditions suitable to actually use it...

Collimation has to be absolutely dead on.  One of the things I've found that during the evening the primary mirror can shift lightly depending on the altitude and so I've always collimated at the same altitude as the planet.

Contrast is not as good as my 102ED.  With the brightness of Jupiter and 12" capturing so much more light, imho it's more difficult to control - going to a level where it's sufficiently dimmed may not be suitable for the seeing conditions.  Therefore, seeing conditions have to be excellent in order in order to use the dob.  I've not used a filter to dim Jupiter.  180x to 220x seems appropriate although at the lower magnification you'll need to spend more time at the eyepiece to let your eye settle into the brightness and adapt.  Ideally you need to be at the eyepiece without moving anyway for minutes rather than seconds (definitely recommend the seated position if possible!)

When are trying to view Jupiter?   The seeing conditions aren't likely to be good enough until it's sufficiently high enough (at least after 1am)

Saturn I haven't really attempted properly using my 12" - it's far too low down and I can't imagine that seeing conditions are ever good enough at the moment for the 12" dob.

Here's a comparison from one night viewing Jupiter with my SW 12" dob and the 4" refractor on the 8th August.  The time I was observing was around 3:30am.

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So, the difference between the 12" dob and the 102ED on Jupiter...  Surprisingly not as large as I'd expected.  I used the 5mm Pentax in the 102ED for 143x and the 7mm Pentax in the Dob for 214x.  Exit pupil was twice as much in the 12" dob as the 102ED, so in theory the contrast should be better(?) than in the 102ED.

Jupiter presented exceptionally well with the 12" dob in times of great seeing.  Undulations in the main belts were quite obvious with darker / light regions becomeing visible with extended viewing at the eyepiece in one sitting.  The lighter southern equatorial belt was obviously split halfway through by a long light patch.  The NEB had multiple darker small blobs sitting in the belts.   The fine northern temperate belts were very obvious.  Colour not really distingishable though with the 12" dob.  Using more power (5mm Pentax) for 300x was really too much for the seeing tonight although occasionally good I didn't feel that the view of any details improved any (actually worse if anything).

In the 102ED by comparison, even though the exit pupil was approx 1/2 that of the dob presented visually seemingly more contrast.  Colour was still visible with a light shade of brown rather than grey.  The image was obviously smaller but comparing the two images it wasn not difficult to see the main features.  Those undulations seen in the dob were still there in the 4" refractor although a bit more time needed to be spent at the eyepiece to really capture them.  Dark and lighter regions were very easy to distinguish particularly the large ones like the lighter "streak" through the SEB as seen in the 12" dob was very obvious.  The much more subtle temperate belts are still present although finer.  The 12" dob picked up more finer detail within the belts although it was necessary to stay at the eyepiece for 20 to 30 seconds to really get these and pick them up as subtle whorls within the main belts.  That kind of detail was very difficult with the 102ED in my view.  For pure sharpness and contrast the refractor killed it and probably gave 90% of the detail of the 12" dob, however that extra 10% that the dob gave was quite spectacular to see those extra little details that occasionally popped in to view.

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An addendum to this is that since binoviewing with my 4" refractor it's actually shown me more detail than I have previously with my 12" dob (just in a smaller scale...)  I haven't had a an opportunity yet to BV my dob!  Observing Jupiter is all about patience sitting through the seeing conditions and very easily washes out with too much power so no point in general going much more than 200x imho

Can't wait to try these out in the binoviewers!  Also a great focal length mono for my refractors for DSO observations between my 18mm BCO and the 10mm BCO.

Well done on 100 sessions completed!   I've only really started to do some solar but this very much depends taking advantage of a short break from work.  I'm close 40 (night) sessions this year though even with almost 3 month hiatus through illness and lack of astro-dark - so it's been a good year so far!  May it continue into Autumn and Winter when there's even more time to take advantage.