almcl

What happens to the guide star on the PHD2 screen?  Does this also move or does it stay in place?  

You say you took subs while 'PHD was going through its routine', is this while it's calibrating?  That would produce star trails for sure, and how was the calibration?  Any reported problems?

I used white Hammerite hammered finish, but as I couldn't find it in a spray can had to mix it with thinners and spray it from my air driven spray gun. 

The result was acceptable rather than wonderful. 

If you go this route your local automotive paint factor may be able to come up with a very much cheaper alternative to the unbelievably expensive Hammerite thinners.  Mine did.

Thanks, Gina. 

Longer lasting is just what I am looking for!

A little while ago someone posted a link to a higher quality TEC 12706 Peltier cooler.  Unfortunately, I can't now find this anywhere, and my first cheap one failed a couple of weeks ago after several months of good service and its Ebay replacement has failed after only a few days, so I think I am ready to try for something a bit more robust, if anyone has the link or a recommendation?

On another allied topic, what flexible foam insulation do people use on the cold finger and associated cold parts?

It looks as though you haven't got any light frames selected.  You have to click on check all (or go through each sub checking the box at the left hand side).

Not sure if this is the complete solution but try 'check all' and then see if it will stack?

That made me reach for my 1962 edition of the Observer's Book of Astronomy! (Yes, still got it.)

I notice that while Sir Patrick condemned small refractors, he instead recommended binoculars as an alternative and having used a pair of 1960s manufacture 9 x 30 Ross binos the other night, I think that both telescopes and binoculars have come a long way in the intervening years.  Both in price per millimetre of aperture and in overall performance, today's equipment seems much superior and this has surely pushed back the boundaries of what is 'useful'.

All taken with Canon 700d and either SW200P or Canon 200 mm EF 2.8 lens

Whale and Fish Hook NGC 4631 & 4656

IC1396 including the Elephant's trunk

Headphones nebula PK164+31.1

Spaghetti nebula Sh2-240 in Ha

Lobster Claw, Bubble & M52

I'll jump in since no one else has.  I didn't fit the official goto upgrade kit, just the tracking motors and handset.  I found this pretty straight forward and I think the goto kit is similar but with a few extra components.

I then decided to fit Tom Carpenter's AstroEQ, complete with belt mods, home made bracketry and custom pulleys.  I did this to improve guiding accuracy, but found the goto ability it also provided was a real bonus. 

Having now got an EQ6 AltAz with the Synscan handset, I don't find the handset as convenient (and would cheerfully strangle the person responsible for fitting a coiled cable as the mount connection) but compared with failed star hops, it takes all the frustration/fun out of finding a target.

How are you taking your flats?

I ask because stretching your flat frame shows a weave pattern as well as a number of very regular, circular artefacts that don't resemble traditional dust bunnies.  These patterns are also present in the 'no flat' image.  

This raises two questions, what is causing them? and why aren't the flats helping?

IC1369A

M8

M17

M20

M94

I had cataract surgery on one eye about four years ago,  so now have one 'original' eye and one 'bionic' one.  Being able to see distant objects clearly again was amazing.  The difference in vision for stargazing is noticeable, too.  The 'bionic' eye (with the replacement lens) sees things much brighter, the 'original' eye sees contrast much better.  The focus points for both are quite different.

Different surgeons perform the op differently and it is definitely not something I'd do again for fun, but it was over within an hour.  There is a slightly increased risk of retinal tearing post surgery, and I did experience this, but this too was very quickly sorted by the NHS and  full vision is back again, with a bonus of slightly reduced floaters.

Sorry to say, with failing memory, I am not quite sure.  I did stop using the (rechargeable) batteries in favour of this Maplin switchable power supply, but also switched to using an Astroeq to guide, replacing the brass cogs with belt drives.

The worldwide plug was a complete disaster but once this was replaced with a proper 13 amp plug, it proved OK.  In its 13.5 volt mode I am still using it with my relatively newly acquired AZ EQ6.

Pacman Nebula NGC 281

Cocoon Nebula IC5146

Cone Nebula NGC2264

Iris Nebula NGC7023

Not sure if your Celestron mount is the same as my EQ5, but on mine there's a plastic plug on the under side where the bubble level sits which I think can be removed.  It might be possible to shim or otherwise alter the bubble level's position and get  things back on an even keel.  

Thanks, Peter. That was my first thought, too.

I should have mentioned that it does this with both the battery pack and the mains adapter (2.5 amp 6 volt stabilised) and as the instructions indicate 400ma is all that is necessary, I wonder if this could be a 'feature'? If it is, I can't find any mention of it.

Well, the new handset arrived (once I finally managed to prise it from dhl's clutches).

It's certainly different - buttons for sidereal, lunar and solar rates, swap buttons and an ST4 port.

Tried it out and it seems to work well on lunar and stars but haven't had a chance to check its guiding capability yet.

In the meantime though, can someone put my mind at rest on what may be a non-issue?

The activity led in the centre of the movement buttons is generally on red but, while its tracking, appears to flash green very briefly at regular intervals.

Is this supposed to happen? It didn't on the previous one.

Thanks, Jonn. 

I will confess, I did damage the power socket a while back and had to replace it and certainly the first time I noticed it playing up there had been a short sharp shower (the handset sat on the desk over Xmas to dry out as a result ) but perhaps a more thorough clean  with electrical solvent cleaner is worth a punt.

It seems I might have become a victim of the EQ5 handset failure issue.

After months of blameless tracking/guiding, my add-on RA and DEC motor controller (with the Steppenwolf described ST4 port mod)

(looks like this

http://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-skywatcher-dual-axis-motor-drive-for-eq5-mount.htm

)

has started doing odd things. Sometimes it sticks on in RA, with the activity led stuck on red and the stars trailing rapidly across the image. At others the led goes out altogether (both with the battery pack and the stabilised 6v mains adapter).

Have been unable to replicate the symptoms on the bench (and not entirely sure what to do if I could, armed only with a cheap multimeter).

So it might be replacement time (haven’t quite persuaded myself I am worth a Mesu 200 or even an EQ6). The original black handsets don’t appear to be available separately (and given the posts elsewhere on multiple failures might not be good idea anyway) but there appears to be an upgraded version with a red front panel:

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/sky-watcher-enhanced-dual-axis-handset-upgrade-for-eq-5-mounts.html

which, although costing almost as much as the original upgrade, does have some advantages. Has anyone who has gone this route got a good or bad experience to share? In particular, has it proved more durable than the original (black) version?

Wow!  Olly and Steve in the same day.  I am definitely playing with the big boys now!

Thanks both (and Leveye) for the thoughts.  Flocking is another thing to add to the list and some bbq paint as well.  I'll also play around with the framing to see if that helps and try to untwist the vane.

Thanks for the thoughts, Olly, Laser jock and Rich.  I have had a look at the collimation this morning and it was a little off, but on a previous occasion when the artefact appeared, it was spot on.

As for the vanes, I'm not sure.  Picture below seems to show the 12 o'clock one slightly bowed and the 9 o'clock one slightly twisted.  Would this be enough to cause the problem, I wonder?  Or is there something there I haven't noticed?

And Olly, you're far too modest, I am pretty certain that massive Dob you showed me the witch's broom and many other exciting things through last September is a Newt and that seemed to be in pretty good order!

Hi, back with yet another question...

My last two imaging attempts haven't been crowned with success. 

Whilst trying to get the Flame and Horsehead nebulas in the same frame, an artefact that isn't on the darks or flats has shown up.  Seems to consist of two bright parallel lines.

Example below, where its in the upper right part of the image.

It almost looks as though it's some sort of reflection from Alnitak's diffraction spikes but on another evening, it showed up in a completely different place.

Any thoughts on how to go about finding the source for this would be appreciated.

The set up is a Canon 700D attached to a motorised but unguided SW 200P on an EQ5 mount, 20 sec subs, ISO 1600.