Pankaj

Wow. Simply ''out of this world'' picture. Were you sitting on the Hubble telescope while click it ?😆

Beautiful

2 minutes ago, Adam J said:

 

In almost all cases the 533 will be the better camera. I assume you mena MC Pro as I dont think there is a non pro version of the 533 without cooling, at least not yet.

Yes. 533 MC PRO COOLED COLOR (USD 1088) and 183 PC PRO COOLED COLOR (USD 985). Prices and specs checked on FLO.

23 hours ago, Star101 said:

There is also the ZWO ASI533MC with no Amp Glow! Decent price too.

Just checked doing a comparison on astronomy tools between 533mc and 183mc. The FOV re almost the same except that the 533 is square'ish'. Are u sure its got no am glows? I was about to order a 183mc, but stopped after seeing your post. No harm in saving 100 USD if 533 is better off than 183 in terms of amp glow.

Please advice

I would bet my money on Skywatcher EQ6R. tried and tested by many. Having said that, I would reiterate what some one else also noted on this thread - the f6 8'' is a long tube. It will act like a sail in slight breeze and resulting in vibrations that will spoil your photos. Also note that the f6 would give you a very short field of view (FOV) making it difficult to capture large DSOs, and galaxy like M31 within the available FOV. You may want to try either 100-120mm APO or a SW 130PDS or 150PDS in case of reflectors.

Check out the ''astronomy tools'' website for calculating FOV.

Guiding and tracking will also require excellent skills with an F6  

2 hours ago, rickwayne said:

The 183 has a 1" sensor. The 1600 is 25% more expensive, so probably out of your budget; it has a 4/3 sensor. APS-C and full-frame sensors cost bigly.

I am quite happy with my 183MM Pro. It does have pretty noticeable amp glow and those little pixels mean you have to work harder at controlling noise, but it's really quite the nice camera. I specifically wanted a finer image scale with my 336mm imaging train. Since I already had an APS-C DSLR, I also wanted to have a different choice of FOV for smaller objects.

IIRC the 183's cooler spec says it will maintain 40 below ambient. That's probably OK for you -- 0℃ is going to knock out the lion's share of thermal noise -- but be aware that at that kind of differential, you will be sucking a lot of power into the cooler, and may very well be fighting fogging issues.

Did lot of research regarding pricing and sensor size. So here's where I land in making up my mind -

1. I need a cooled camera only for DSO and Galaxy imaging. Not for Planetary imaging.

2. Three choices - ASI 294 MC PRO  ,  ASI 1600 MM PRO  ,  ASI 071 MC PRO

Of the above 294 MC PRO is a cooled color camera so wont need to invest in a filter/wheel hence I spend approx 1200 USD.

1600 MM PRO is MONO camera so I'll have to invest in filter wheel and filters which totals up to 1879 USD.

071 MC PRO  is color. So I wont need to invest in filters and can shop this for 1870 USD

SO MY POINT IS, can't I go in for the ASI 294MC PRO. Its FOV though smaller than 071 MC PRO, is still equivalent 1600 MM PRO and fits in the entire Markarian Chain which kind of would serve my purpose. Unless of course the 294MC PRO lacks something in it which would create a problem in DSO/GALAXY imaging.

Please help me in deciding this. 

On 14/05/2020 at 21:10, michael.h.f.wilkinson said:

I myself amd considering the cooled, mono version of the ASI183MC I have, found here:

https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/asi183mm-pro-mono

The colour version of that one is cheaper, so if you don't have a filter wheel it might be more suitable for you. My own, non-cooled colour version has given me a lot of joy on DSOs already. Three hours on M81 + M82 from Bortle 5 skies using a 6"F/5 Schmidt-Newton gave me this:

 

and it works nicely on lunar and planetary with my C8 as well

 

Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Using astronomy tools i did a comparison about the FOV. Attached is the screenshot. It seems the ASI 183 MM has a narrower FOV as compared to my existing DSLR. Hope I have chosen the correct 183MM ? 

Hi all. To bring out detail in a DSO something like M42 which has great variation in brightness, subs of different exposure and ISO settings are stancked. I read in an old thread that subs of different exposure and ISO settings (along with their darks & bias frames) can be loaded in DSS as ''1st group'' and ''2nd group''. 

However, the DSS that I use, has only one category names as ''Main Group'' which is at the bottom of the this screenshot attached.

Please advice how do I stack these images of different settings in DSS

I have gone through the list of cooled cameras on FLO but unable to make up my mind due to lack of experience and hence a bit reluctant to shed out so much money without being sure.

Hi. Was looking at buying a new cooled camera for AP. Till now I was using a DSLR  Canon1200D but wanted to get rid of that huge amount of noise that shows up in long exposure high ISO settings. Being a resident of India, the climate too is getting hot and would reach 45 degrees making the sensor ever hot.

I presume there are separate cooled cameras for planetary and DSO imaging. But obviously due to budget constraints I cannot buy both. However, my main targets will be the DSOs and Galaxies for which the FOV required will be large.  Kindly suggest an entry-intermediate level cooled camera suitable for DSOs and Galaxies. I can spare about a 1000 USD.  

lovely shot

9 minutes ago, Andy_Gavin84 said:

Thanks all for the responses, I should of been clearer and that as i'm a total novice at all of this i don't intend to jump into AP right away. I'm just looking for a good solid all round beginner telescope for my budget. One that will help me get that bug for me to invest further into this

I'm sure the AP stuff will come later on

Visual and Astrophotography (AP) are totally different and require different equipment. I suggest you start visual with a minimum 8'' dobson if not a 10''. I own a 10'', F5 which gives me great views of Venus, Jupiter, Saturn, many binary stars, star clusters, globulars from my bortle 9 sky in New Delhi. But dont expect to see images as you see in photographs. A look at the Moon through it, would make u jump in excitement. As you will move to darker skies you will be astonished to see that the views would get significantly better. From a Bortle 3-4 sky, even the galaxies and the fainter nebulae are within easy reach. It allows one to learn the sky chart and find targets through star hopping.

Later u can jump in AP. But my sincere suggestion is not to go below a 130pds (if not 150pds) mounted on a HEQ5 (if not NEQ6).

I too experience this on my 130pds. Never thought that light could leak in through the camera's viewfinder. Thanks for sharing.

Also, how about the coma sneaking towards the center of the image ? Was that due to camera tilting ?

Hi. Thanks a ton for your feedback. Do keep posting your deep exposure photos. These will keep people like me inspired and motivated enough to save more money for a 200mm of 250mm astrographs 😃😃😃😃

Welcome on this wonderful forum.

In case you are looking at AP then you'll have to increase your budget. For AP mount is the main piece of equipment and I wont recommend to go for anything less than HEQ5 which I guess is approx 700 USD. You can start with 130mm reflector. I use a skywatcher 130pds and quite happy with it. Add the cost of a camera too. 

I started with observation though. My first serious scope was 10" Dobsonian. The great views it gave me further inspired me to get into AP and I am still learning  

Also if you could tell about the imaging camera you used.

8 minutes ago, lnlarxg said:

ah yes of course.  60 x 5min lights, darks/bias/lights calibrated.  Canon 550d with Skywatcher 250 Quattro CF, Mounted on Neq6 Pro, ZWO ASIAIR did all controlling.

Thanks. You sure have loads of equipment. Going by your experience, do you think shooting this object is possible with a Skywatcher 130 PDS on guided NEQ6 from Bortle 3 sky?

I am a novice and your image has really inspired me. 

Lovely shot indeed.

Awesome picture. Please do share equipment and capture details. I

Awesome image. Simply ''out of this world" 

my 10" dob easily splits the tightest ones.

Most of the objects in the image are from the PGC Catalog. Is there a list of objects available on the internet where I can read about them?

3 minutes ago, Norniron said:

Thanks for your reply Pankaj , i must admit i'm leaning towards the Skywatcher , its within budget and a good step up in viewing experience.

It is good. No doubt.

As Miguel said, the darker the skies the better show you'll get on the galaxies and nebulas. The two most important things to observe nebulas and galaxies is - Dark Sky and Aperture.

From city polluted skies, Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, Venus Moon are never a problem through this scope. The higher the planet in the sky, the better.  

People also forget about the double/triple/+++ star systems. They are a treat to watch through this scope even from light polluted skies.

I am blown away !! Awesome. Simply ''out of this world'' photo.

Where was this taken from....I mean the sky..what was the bortle rating?

I would say that your plan to buy a 10" dob is perfect. The Skywatcher 10" dob is good piece of equipment. I have it too and its my best mate for ''a grab & go'' observing session. Though to some members here, this scope may sound a bit heavy to carry. Its got great resolution and splits the tightest of doubles easily. All planets are within reach except of course Uranus & Neptune. Its 1200mm FL with a modest 25mm eyepiece will easily show the rings of saturn, bands on jupiter and the moons of both planets. Increase the magnification using 2x barlow and eyepieces till 6mm (400x) and you'll get blown away with what you see. 

Due to its aperture, almost all nebulas and galaxies are within reach though watching the details in some dimmer ones may require dark skies. 

The only problem with a Dob is that as you increase the magnification, the planets quickly pass through the field of view. So with time and practice, you will have to learn to follow the planets movement through the fov by turning the dob mount.