Phillyo

26 minutes ago, The Lazy Astronomer said:

I quite like it, it's very striking and dramatic. And, let's be honest, with narrowband imaging, you can get away with being a bit more 'artistic' when it comes to colours. 😁

Thank you!

On 29/09/2021 at 13:38, adyj1 said:

Appreciate you don't like that version any more, but I say keep uploading anyway - it was a stage you were at. I'm now interested to see you do a different version 👍 

Working on it

Stunning!

Beautiful data to work with!! This is my attempt at an SHO version.

The more I look at this, the more I regret uploading it. You could tell I was tired when I edited it. Methinks I shall have another shot at this and tone down the colours/saturation by about 300%. 

Over the last few weeks and due to the terrible weather, I had only managed to get about 6 hours or so of data on this area. However it was clear again last night, with little to no moon so I managed to add some more data to give me a total of around 12h and 10min broken up into 80 x 5min and 110 x 3min exposures. Captured using the ASIAir Pro, ASI533MC Pro, Samyang 135mm stopped down to about f/3.5, EQ6-R Pro through the IDAS NBX filter. Guiding was done via the 120mm mini.

There is a LOT of dusty nebula up there and I'm really tempted to try and add more panes to this to make a mosaic? We shall what the weather allows! Thanks for looking.

I've just received my EQ6-R Pro and I've noticed that the Alt knobs are quite stiff. I know that the older EQ6 has a rail kit available to allow more accurate alignment (easier movement) and I was wondering if anything similar exists for the EQ6-R Pro version?

Thanks.

Thanks Miguel, that's what I assumed but wasn't sure.

Hi all,

I noticed there's an EQ6-R Pro for sale on the site and I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between the model being sold (without the USB port) and the new version WITH the USB port. Other than the addition of the port, are there any differences between them? Does the port make any difference if one already has an EQMod cable?

Thanks in advance.

Phil.

3 hours ago, Fred_76 said:

But DO YOU HAVE THE USER MANUAL of the Astrotrac TT320X-AG ? I can't find it and the previous owner of my mount can't find it...

Fred

Hi Fred, no I have no idea where the user manual is lol. I've had the mount for years now so it's been lost somewhere along the way.

What stacking software and algorithm are you using to combine the subs together?

Nice image and great progress. Try not to make the background quite so dark during processing, you'll lose quite a bit of the background nebulosity

1 hour ago, Ande said:

Like many others on here, my little brain is trying to piece together the purpose, and practicalities of all of these weird and wonderful concepts. Is there any merit in using binning with a DSLR?  Also, being a beginner, is it just something I should sidestep for the time being, until I’m more experienced? I’ve recently bought an ASIair Pro, which has yet to see first light, and binning seems to be one of the many functions on offer.

You can't bin a DSLR due to it being a one shot colour camera. That being it'll have a bayer matrix over the sensor that is something like RGGB. Binning is used with mono cameras (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Fantastic image.

I know there's no up or down in space, but M31 with M110 above it rather than below always seems strange to me?

So it seems to connect and slew ok with the skywatcher app so I think my laptop/installation is the issue. Everything works fine in ASIAIR so the mount and cable are obviously perfectly ok.

1 hour ago, knobby said:

Is it worth trying the skywatcher app to rule out something in eqmod ?

https://skywatcher.com/download/software/synscan-app/

I use it with my Az-gti and find it works really reliably.

I'll give it a shot. I'll give ANYTHING a shot right now. Thank you!

So, just to revive an old thread. I'm at my wits end here! I connected everything up yesterday afternoon and it all worked fine. EQmod running through PHD2, NINA and Cartes Du Ceil. Slewing to targets in CdC for hours, taking exposures in NINA. Not a single issue. Perfect! I connect it up again today, exactly the same and instantly get comm errors again. Nothing has changed. Same laptop (i've tried 2 different laptops now), same ports, same cables, some power socket. Everything the same.

This is driving me insane!! 

No I think the colours are great. I might be tempted to lighten them up a little bit to enhance them a bit more, but that's just personal preference. Oh you have it set up with an EAF too! Very nice. Where did you get the adapter from? I'm tempted to get one for next year, once they're back in stock!

This is really really nice. Very subtle processing! That redcat is looking lovely!

That's a really lovely image of M31, super smooth. I'd be tempted to try and enhance the colour a little bit but that's just personal taste. What are you using to process your data? Also, I notice you've had your EQ6-R Pro Stellardrive tuned and I was wondering if you would recommend it? Thanks.

Another clear night? Two in 1 week? What is going on!!

This is 83x5min subs with the ASI533, Samyang 135 @2.8, on the HEQ5 Pro (still having issues in RA with this swinging wildly), through the IDAS NBX filter. I tried to blend the data for a slightly different colour approach here using pixelmath with RGB channels as R = R, G = 0.4*R+0.6*G, and B = 0.6*G+0.4*B. Any feedback would be appreciated!

Phil

The NBX is fantastic for faster focal ratios. This set up is sucking up loads of photons!

Praise the Lord it was actually clear here last night, almost ALL night too! I managed to grab 5 1/2 hours of data on the Rosette nebula (63 x 5min subs) with the Samyang 135 at f2.8, ASI533 and the IDAS NBX filter. Attached are 3 images, one as is, one star removed and one with the moon to show image scale. It's really quite a large object!! Happy for critique!

Thanks for looking.

Loads of dusty stuff! Love it.

Here's an idea. Use Sharpcap to polar align until you're happy. Then, shut everything down but don't move it. Turn it all back on again and do another polar alignment. You'll probably notice that it isn't exactly the same as when you turned it off. 

When you go back to it and do it again, how far out of PA is it? If it's less than 1' then leave it. You're sky limited at that point anyway so trying to get closer than that is pretty much pointless, especially if you're guiding.

I am rather partial to a starless image if it is done well, and this one is done very well. I think it shows the structure of the nebula much better without the stars distracting from the image. Lovely images, thanks for sharing.