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Phillyo

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Everything posted by Phillyo

  1. Astap works perfectly for me within NINA so I think you may have some settings wrong.
  2. Yeah there's a lot going on in that area. Thank you. Nice to some another fellow Lincolnite on here too
  3. Afternoon all, Since I bought the new Antlia 5nm ALP-T Dual Band filter, I've been seeing these strange halo's around some stars. They aren't the brightest stars in the image by any stretch of the imagination, and I don't think they're caused by reflections. They weren't there with the IDAS NBX filter, nor are they there with the normal UV/IR filter. Any idea what might be causing them? Do I need to send the filter back? Thanks in advance.
  4. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html Along with this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-2-filter-drawer-m42-m48.html Plus some spacers: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/account/order/PO198011/
  5. I bought the adapter that converts the SY from a canon mount into a screw on mount, then an updated filter drawer plus spacers so that everything screws together nice and tight. I found that using the usual canon connection there was a bit of sag any my star shapes at the corners weren't great. I also use step down rings on the front of the lens to bring it down to 36mm, so around F3.6 I think? Helps to tighten everything up plus it means the filters work better and you reduce the band shift issue caused by fast optics. Thank you! Yes, I love the top one. I might try and add some RGB data just to see what it does but we'll see. Thanks all.
  6. Yeah I was thinking RGB stars might be nice? I might give it a go and see how I do. Ha, yeah I ended up only doing DBE in a few select points around the edge due to all the dusty stuff. To be honest though there wasn't much of a gradient anyway. It was a moonless night and I stacked everything using the NSG script which helps with gradients anyway, but thank you. It's one of my favourite images so far. Yes this is a single image. Thinking about doing a mosaic but to be honest due to such poor weather combined with it being so low in the sky, I'm not sure how long it would take me to add a few frames around it? Maybe I can add to it over the years and just expand it out a bit Thanks.
  7. My telescope is just a 135mm camera lens, so attaching the 120 mini is a little confusing to me. I'm not sure if it's even possible? Something to look into I guess, but I assumed I would need a longer focal length than 135mm for lunar imaging no?
  8. Just curious, would adding RGB data to this help to improve it? If I were to extract the Ha data and use that as a luminance layer, or maybe add it as the red layer? Phil
  9. Morning all, So I'm considering giving lunar imaging a go but I'm not sure where to start. I currently do DSO imaging with my ASI533, Samyang 135 lens mounted on my EQ6-R Pro. I also have an ASI120mm Mini that I use for autoguiding that MIGHT be usable for Lunar...? Maybe? If I wanted to give it a try, and not spend too much, where would I start? Would the 120mm work ok? Would the ASI533 work? Do I just need a longer telescope and if so what would be a recommendation please? Any advice for a lunar imaging beginner would be much appreciated. Thanks, Phil.
  10. Nope, still incredibly pink/purple! I wonder if you could use your phone/tablet to take a look maybe?
  11. I think a lot of people on here would happily pay 20k for clear and dark skies!!
  12. oooo, no lol. Now it looks bright purple! Not sure what you've done with that but the original is much better
  13. If you save the image as a PNG you'll be able to upload directly to the post
  14. I would add more data. Increasing exposure length will just increase light pollution collection. Increasing gain will lower the full well depth and noise but not give you anything you want. Just get more and more 4min subs. It is a VERY faint object!
  15. Lets say someone gave you £20000 (or equiv currency) to spend on astrophotography equipment. What would be your setup with that budget? I'm thinking something along the lines of 10Micron 1000HPS, tak 106, qhy600m, with 3nm filters, LRGB filters, EFW etc.
  16. Managed to actually get out for 2 nights on the trot and stack up around 9 hours or so of data on the Orion Nebula, including horse head nebula. There's SO much going on in this area that trying to do DBE is fun avoiding the dusty nebula. This is my first try imaging this very famous nebula and I'm quite happy with the result so far. My skills in pixinsight still need to improve, and I might try and add even more data...or do a mosaic of the area? Capture was the ASI533, Samyang 135, Antlia 5nm dual band filter on my EQ6-R Pro, guided with the ASI120mm Mini. Captured in NINA and processed in Pixinsight. Thanks for looking. Comments/criticism very welcome! Phil
  17. Thank you, yeah the stars are nice! I got it from Modern Astronomy. I sent Bern a message and managed to get a pre-order in before they sold out. This does now mean I have an IDAS NBX filter for sale too! Need to get that up on the forum. Phil
  18. Following on from my Antlia 5nm post, I manage to jump out tonight and very quickly grab 30min (10x3min) subs of the California Nebula and 30min (10x3min) of Rosette before clouds came in. This isn't anything conclusive but I have compared a similar amount of data that I already have with the NBX filter from different nights just out of curiousity. 30min isn't much to go on, but from initial inspection it looks like the stars are tighter/smaller for sure. Maybe a slightly better contrast, but that's hard to compare due to the integration time and the different conditions over multiple nights etc. I have attached the two images from tonight. Nothing special, but not bad for only 30min of data. DBE, photometric colour cal, EZ Denoise, EZ Stretch, some curves and done. Phil
  19. New filter arrived today for my ASI533MC Pro. The new Antlia 5nm 'Gold' filter. Below are some pictures of the packaging which is REALLY nice. Looks and feels like a premium product, obviously the proof is in the pudding...but that'll have to wait until I have some clear skies to run some comparison tests against the IDAS NBX filter. I'm hoping that the 5nm narrowband pass will help produce tigher stars, more contrast in the image, remove light pollution and allow me to produce slightly better HOO style images in Pixinsight. We shall see!! I'll be using this on my Samyang 135mm lens that is stepped down to around f3.5.
  20. This is what I have: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08H2B3M8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It runs my EQ6-R Pro, ASI533, two dew heaters, mini PC etc fine. Don't spend loads on a branded battery when all you need is a leisure battery.
  21. Good first images, you should be very happy with these. Once you have guiding sorted you can add some longer exposures to bring out more of the details around each target. I would also suggest lots of shorter exposures as they are very bright targets. Plus LOTS more data. I would be aiming for 2 or 3 hours of total data on each target, minimum. Phil
  22. Thank you, Actually thought it looked a tiny bit green on my screen too, which is calibrated. However when I hovered the cursor over the image the G and B values were really close throughout the background so I assumed I was just imagining it a bit? Also thanks for the heads up on the scope. I'll take a look at the Esprit 100! Phil
  23. Hi Mike, I will definitely give it another go when I have the time to really sit down and have a play with it. Please excuse my previous post. It was a rather flippant comment, not meant as any real feedback.
  24. This was taken with the Samyang 135 and the ASI533. Total of around 11 hours or so of data (reduced from 15hours after weighting). Loving this combo for the really widefield images it produces.
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