Juicy6
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Posts posted by Juicy6
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8 hours ago, masjstovel said:
Also, if 60mb/s is for a 15m cable: I need only 5m or 7m cable. I wonder how that will affect the speed? I see its alot of "depends", but are we talking 70mb/s or 400mb/s logically speaking with this much smaller length?
I have the 7 m cable too. It will reach the exact same speed as the 15 m variant, so maybe the line amplifiers are limiting speed to 60+ MB/s. 70 MB/s or 400 MB/s would not improve anything. With my cables it feels fully transparent, no delays, no lags.
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1 hour ago, symmetal said:
I'm not sure what Juicy6 uses the SSD to USB3 device for at the scope,
This was only for testing and stressing the USB cable. When I copied big iso-s up and down, I could not observe any delays or disturbance in my astro programs. 294 sent pictures to APT and 120 sent images to PHD2 without problems. Normally I store image files on computer SSD.
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On 22/02/2020 at 23:14, bsdsgl84 said:
Not a lot of folks think about how "noisy" (frequent, random individual polling for more power) dew heaters are as far as power draw is concerned and the fact that if on a shared power source, it can affect the operation of other devices also powered from the same power source.
Poorly RFI shielded PWM heater controllers emit noise. IMHO controllers are also superfluous. I leave my dew heater on full power all the time. It draws only 0.6 ampere for 7 watts. Its resistive load will give absolutely no noise.
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2 hours ago, symmetal said:
I'm surprised why they are claimed to work at full USB3 speed when they are greater than 3m long. If that was the case all hubs would have the 'magic repeater' built in and would then work at full speed over 10m or even 25m without problems.
Alan
I have a powered USB3 hub on the scope. I also have a 15 m powered USB3 extension cable from scope hub to computer. I reach full speed with this setup. Images from my ASI294 are 14 MB and are downloaded in less than half a second. If I connect a SSD disk or memory card to my scope hub I can read or write to this disk with 60 MB/s without disturbing normal image download and scope control from computer to scope. I use this cable:
Christer, Sweden
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Install Connectify onto your telescope computer and make it a wifi hotspot or wired Access point. In Settings, select "No internet". Let your notebook only connect to Connectify. Your notebook will connect to scope computer if this is up, else you will have no connection. Blocking port 80 will stop HTTP traffice but maybe updates or intrusion attempts can take place through other ports...
https://support.connectify.me/article/83-ethernet-to-ethernet
Christer, Sweden
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Maybe something like this to reduce play in threads:
Christer, Sweden
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Hey
TS in Germany also offer custome made adapters:
https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9287_TS-Optics-custom-made-Adapter.html
Christer, Sweden
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2 hours ago, vlaiv said:
You certainly are asking for reflection trouble. Good/bad thing about it (depends on how you look at it) is that you don't really have much control over it, or rather you have no idea for the most part of how your actions will affect end result ... Could be that you will have reflections in certain combination, but probably best attitude to have towards that fact is: "Cross that bridge when we come to it ....".
Since you are using 2" filters - you can move your filter drawer away from camera without much fear of introducing vignetting because of that. This means that you have some "room for maneuvering" if you get reflections from your filter in the drawer - you can always swap filter drawer and extension tube positions in your diagram above - that moves filter further away from sensor and yet keeps total distance between FF/FR and sensor the same.
Thank you for many wise words. The reason for my questions was that my UV/IR cut filter was too thick for the filter drawer. As I had the filter cell adapter in my junk box, I came up with this idea. I will instead try to find a thinner UV/IR filter, which will fit in the drawer.
Christer, Sweden
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Hey
What do experts think about my setup? I always have an IR/UV cut filter mounted first in image train, just after focusing draw tube and before flattener. Then I have a filter drawer near camera where I can switch between, clear focusing, CLS and Optolong L-enhance Duo filters. Two questions:
Am I asking for trouble with internal reflection?
Is it good practise to always have IR/UV cut filter mounted? I only use scope for imaging.
This is my setup:
Christer, Sweden
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The manual for the power box says the 4 outlets can together deliver 10 A. I can see no reference to your statement about 2 A per socket. My 294 has never drawn more than 1,6 A.
Christer, Sweden
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I too was interested in this. Software for Polemaster, IPolar and SharpCap need to see Pole Star if I am not mistaken. But for a good plate solver I guess any part of the sky would suffice for PA. If software solves images from east and west view, a non-viewable NCP would be easy to calculate.
Christer, Sweden
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I have a pdf from v 1.3 and it is describing it the way you do (ver should be 2.04):
Christer, Sweden
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These calculations are approved by Teleskop-Service, Germany:
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14 hours ago, souls33k3r said:
Yes it is still incorrect. It's 55 and is from the back of the Flattener to the sensor chip
Manual says: "Inside the box the 8 mm spacer ring is assembled with the field flattener body. When assembled, the two parts may look as if there were only one piece". So this is not correct?
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On 29/01/2019 at 14:26, souls33k3r said:
I remember RayD mentioned that in the Esprit 100 manual, the distance from the end of the flattener to the chip is listed as 63mm but in reality it's 55mm.
Are you saying the distance in the Manual still is not correct? Or are you measuring 55 mm from sensor to the 8 mm spacer (M66 to M48) and not to the flattener itself? This is the PDF Manual from SW site:
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I asked Andy Ellis at Astronomiser for one some time ago and he reponded: "I've stopped making battery adapters myself due to a parts supply issue and I'm not sure who else makes them or what other options may be available."
Christer, Sweden
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Beautiful with Stephen´s Quintet and even the tidal tail from NGC7319!
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2 hours ago, Calzune said:
Most mounts handle 11 to 14 volts. So 12 or 13,8 v doesnt matter. The supply must be able to "send" the current needed. So the amperage must be higher than the 2-3 ampere the mount draws from the supply. If you later on want to add heaters or cooled cameras, you need more amps. So why not buy a supply giving you 6 or 10 amps. 12 or 13,8 volts.
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6 minutes ago, Calzune said:
okej, finns de någon annan / bättre att använda?
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Yes.
Den adaptern tycks ge 6 A ut så den bör räcka.
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12 hours ago, Rainer said:
Interesting how afraid people are to take off a simple saddle plate just because it has some cables attached to a Hub on the saddle.
I am even more astonished that iOptron themselves do not know how that works.
I am not afraid of modding things. I tried this and it is just a matter of turning the saddle where you want it. Very simple as you said. Nice work there on your own saddle setup, very nice! Agree with you about iOptron tech support AND their retailers.
Christer, Sweden
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12 hours ago, Rainer said:
Again, I do not understand how iOptron does deliver such contradicting information being so easy to change it to a side by side arrangement.
Me neither. After receiving this short strange reply i wrote the iOptron support back and suggested them to include this mod in the FAQ or Scope Manual:
"Thank you very much for reply. But I think I will wait with this until I have instructions with images to follow. I do not know if anything can go wrong. I think this should be described in the manual for your mounts. Here in Sweden there are many people using side-by-side setups for their gear. The support at your German retailer Teleskop Service told me this mod is to be avoided. Also a few forum posters say this is not possible. Maybe presumtive buyers will choose another mount if it is not clearly stated that a side-by-side setup is possible."
This was 4 days ago. No reaction yet.
Christer, Sweden
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Just received answer from iOptron Tech Support:
"You have to remove the stopper and be careful not to over turning it. Yes, you need to remove and rotating the saddle 90 degree in order to make Zero Position Sensor works."
Christer, Sweden
Need help regarding USB-hub
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
The 5i5RYH NUC which I have used runs from 12V. See specs here: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/83255/intel-nuc-kit-nuc5i5ryh.html . But last time I checked I could not find any 12V in todays Intel NUC range.