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WyomingRob

Members
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About WyomingRob

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, of course.
    Motorcycles, I have my own "show bike".
    Building my own parts and actually getting them to work!
    I do 99% of all my mechanical work.
    I am restoring a '76 MGB.
  • Location
    Cheyenne, WY.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    robc@wyoming.com
  • Skype
    WyomingRob
  1. Hi Rob, you r guide scope I see is a Meade #310 I actually just sent a guy a check for one. During your viewing sessions have you looked at the planets with the 310, just curious what your opinion is of the 310's optical performance.

     

    Regards Gary 

  2. Nice image!! I got this,too. Didn't know what it was until a friend out of Nebraska (Bob Runyan), pointed it out to me. Did this one on 1/19/14 at 11:39 PM. Rob C.
  3. This is the result of 5 hours of exposure in LRGB&HA(2nm). AstroTech AT6RC, SBIG ST10-XME/CFW8a
  4. The way that you wrote this makes it difficult, at least to me, to figure out what you are asking about. Try redoing the post so I can figure it out. I've got an idea what you are asking, but not a "full" picture of your problem. Thanks, Rob C. Cheyenne, WY. USA
  5. Just point the "big end" towards the sky, put in an eyepiece, focus, and enjoy. Get a good star chart to help you find objects you want to look at. Insofar as eyepiece choice, what you will use, depends on sky "conditions". A good way to judge sky conditions, without use of instruments, is to simply look at the stars. Lots of "twinkling" in the stars, conditions are on the poor side. Use a less powerful eyepiece. (20mm to 30+mm) Very little "twinkling", you can use a stronger one. (20mm or less). The "trick" is not to "over power" the optics. A common mistake made by "new" observers. ( I did it when I started out). Your looking at Jupiter with a 15mm, so you put in a 5mm, thinking it will bring it in closer and bigger. But all you see is a big, fuzzy, disk. You over powered the scope for sky condition. A better night and it may work better. Experiment, you will learn what will work, what won't. Also remember that a stronger eyepiece ( 5mm is stronger than a 10mm), will narrow your FOV ( field of view). So the area of the sky you are looking at will be smaller. Attend a Star Party, interacting with more experienced observers will increase your skills. Also consider joining a local astronomy club, this will place you with "like minded" people, and share experiences. Just some beginning "points" to start with. And, Welcome to the forum!! Rob C, Cheyenne, WY. USA
  6. Welcome to the forum. I use a CCD camera for imaging, but there are plenty of members here that use DRSL for imaging. I'm confident that you will find all the assistance you need to get the job done. As James stated, it won't be cheap, but not overly expensive. Processing software can get "high dollar", depending on what you want it to do. As he stated, also, the mount is critical. Bad tracking, bad images. You will find all the answers here. Rob C.
  7. I assume that you are looking for "raw" data. Do you want it in "fits", "tiff", or "jpeg" formats? I do have some "old" data that I would share. Rob C.
  8. The big key with any scope used in AP, is the mount. A 130 can do a good job as well as a parabolic, but for AP, I recommend a RC scope. The mount will make the difference. I use both a fork mount and an EQ mount. The fork is not as stable in windy conditions, but is easy to set up and use. The EQ is more stable in winds, but is more compicated, but not much more. In either case, in AP, tracking is vital. There are many good quality cameras out there. It will all depend on what you want to image, Deep Sky, or Planetary. I use a SBIG ST10-XME on mt AstroTech AT6RC EQ mounted, and a SBIG ST7-E on my fork mounted LX200. However, QHY makes great little camera, at a reasonable price. It's all a matter of what you want to do, and how much you want to spend. Your in the right place to find out all you want to know. There is a lot of intelligent people on this site, who will be happy to "step" you through it. Rob C.
  9. Also, try a Hand Warmer in the box. At low temps, it helps keep the controls warm enough to keep them working well. Here in Wyoming, a person needs all the help one can get. Rob C.
  10. Nice Shot!! My FOV won't allow both of these objects, at the same time. I use a SBIG ST10-XME with an AstroTech AT6RC. Good for deep sky, single objects. I would have to mosaic to do this. Rob C.
  11. Think it's time someone wrote a sci-fi book on this premise. "What would happen if someone "Nuked the Moon"? It would be interesting reading. That is, if anyone was around to read it. Rob C.
  12. Also, quality of eyepiece will make a big difference. I use the Explore Scientific's, and have good luck with them. Seeing conditions will also affect focus, especially in the higher magnifications. Rob C.i
  13. I use a QHY5 II on a AstroTech 50mm guide scope, with PHD for guiding. My guiding is within 1/2 pixels. I use an EQ mount. It all depends on what you can afford, and how well you are polar aligned, and how well the mount will track. Rob C.
  14. Well, I'm no "expert", but logic tells me that if any of the previously mentioned ideas were brought into play, then we, here on Earth, would need more light. So, we would make more ourselves, and create the same problem that we are complaining about, except it would be an "every night" thing then. So I will take a few nights of annoyance, over a constant one. Rob C.
  15. Trying to avoid Alnitak with my FOV and still get the image is difficult at best. But I am determined to try. I starting to get good images, but want to get much better at it. Thanks for the comment, Rob C.
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