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  1. Yeah - it's a 3-pin plug so I'd rather run it from a 12V DC supply as I'm not in an obsy and don't like having mains plugs/sockets exposed to a damp atmosphere
  2. Quick follow-up on the Orico hub. I assume you're powering it via a 5.5/2.1mm jack plug back to a 12V supply with a 2A fuse. Did you manage to find a pre-made cable or make one yourself (I miss Maplin...) ? Thanks Geoff
  3. Everyone - Thanks for the advice. FLO now has an order for the Baader Solar Filter, so I'll start with that and work up to the Ha. Sorry about ruining your summers! Geoff
  4. I've been deep-sky imaging for a few years now and have always had an urge to try solar, but have been reluctant to start because: 1. Not sure what's needed. 2. Whenever I get something for the 'scope, clouds roll-in and I don't want the guilt of ruining everyone's summer. Notwithstanding #2, if I want to take visible light images with my Esprit 120 and DMK camera, am I correct in assuming all I need is a solar filter for the front? If I want to image in Ha, do I need a solar Ha filter? (Stephen suggests standard ones aren't up to it here) Thanks Geoff
  5. Wonderful images. What were the exposure times and number of sub-frames?
  6. Hope you don't mind, but I ran GradientXterminator over it (nothing fancy, just quick and dirty )
  7. Thanks to all. All I need now is some clear nights... Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  8. I was hoping to experiment with this, but as usable clear nights this winter have been in single figures, I've opted to ask the experts. To keep it simple, let's say we have 3 (identical) clear nights with 3 hours of imaging available each night and I want to capture a single target. 1. Is it best to do one night of R, one night of G and one of B, or 2. One hour if R, one of G and one B each night? If we go for option 2, should I: a. Stack all the Rs Gs and Bs individually and then combine, or b. Stack each night's RGBs and then combine the 3 composites? Thanks Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  9. It's good on phones as it reformats the screen to fit your device, but it's fairly unnecessary on a tablet
  10. I use a Plugable powered USB hub (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Port-Power-Adapter-Mains/dp/B006Z061HU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385642762&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hub) and a 10m active extension cable (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_31?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1385642836&sr=1-31&keywords=Plugable+Technologies) and it works like a charm. I also use Starry Night Pro, but I set to run as an Administrator (same with PHD)
  11. Would you need moonlight? Presumably using a grey card in sunlight would allow you to calculate white balance (the light source is, after all, G2V!)
  12. Derek Wavelets are still fairly hit and miss for me. How do you go about setting the background to a flat plane? Thanks Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  13. This is a handy web page: http://www.skyandtelescope.com/observing/objects/planets/3304091.html?page=1&c=y Stick a date in and it'll tell you when the GRS appears. According to the site, the spot crossed the meridian at 2042, so I'd say you've captured it!! Cheers
  14. Specifically, removing the old spot. The guidance in the Catseye docs says use 91% Isopropyl alcohol, but ask in the chemists and they've stopped selling it as they think people just want to drink it; same with Acetone and nail varnish remover has oil in it to condition your nails... Does anyone have a solution (no pun intended!)? Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
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