Jump to content



  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hoshikomi

  1. Yeah - it's a 3-pin plug so I'd rather run it from a 12V DC supply as I'm not in an obsy and don't like having mains plugs/sockets exposed to a damp atmosphere
  2. Quick follow-up on the Orico hub. I assume you're powering it via a 5.5/2.1mm jack plug back to a 12V supply with a 2A fuse. Did you manage to find a pre-made cable or make one yourself (I miss Maplin...) ? Thanks Geoff
  3. Everyone - Thanks for the advice. FLO now has an order for the Baader Solar Filter, so I'll start with that and work up to the Ha. Sorry about ruining your summers! Geoff
  4. I've been deep-sky imaging for a few years now and have always had an urge to try solar, but have been reluctant to start because: 1. Not sure what's needed. 2. Whenever I get something for the 'scope, clouds roll-in and I don't want the guilt of ruining everyone's summer. Notwithstanding #2, if I want to take visible light images with my Esprit 120 and DMK camera, am I correct in assuming all I need is a solar filter for the front? If I want to image in Ha, do I need a solar Ha filter? (Stephen suggests standard ones aren't up to it here) Thanks Geoff
  5. Wonderful images. What were the exposure times and number of sub-frames?
  6. Hope you don't mind, but I ran GradientXterminator over it (nothing fancy, just quick and dirty )
  7. Thanks to all. All I need now is some clear nights... Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  8. I was hoping to experiment with this, but as usable clear nights this winter have been in single figures, I've opted to ask the experts. To keep it simple, let's say we have 3 (identical) clear nights with 3 hours of imaging available each night and I want to capture a single target. 1. Is it best to do one night of R, one night of G and one of B, or 2. One hour if R, one of G and one B each night? If we go for option 2, should I: a. Stack all the Rs Gs and Bs individually and then combine, or b. Stack each night's RGBs and then combine the 3 composites? Thanks Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  9. It's good on phones as it reformats the screen to fit your device, but it's fairly unnecessary on a tablet
  10. I use a Plugable powered USB hub (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Port-Power-Adapter-Mains/dp/B006Z061HU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385642762&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hub) and a 10m active extension cable (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_31?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1385642836&sr=1-31&keywords=Plugable+Technologies) and it works like a charm. I also use Starry Night Pro, but I set to run as an Administrator (same with PHD)
  11. Would you need moonlight? Presumably using a grey card in sunlight would allow you to calculate white balance (the light source is, after all, G2V!)
  12. Derek Wavelets are still fairly hit and miss for me. How do you go about setting the background to a flat plane? Thanks Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  13. This is a handy web page: http://www.skyandtelescope.com/observing/objects/planets/3304091.html?page=1&c=y Stick a date in and it'll tell you when the GRS appears. According to the site, the spot crossed the meridian at 2042, so I'd say you've captured it!! Cheers
  14. Specifically, removing the old spot. The guidance in the Catseye docs says use 91% Isopropyl alcohol, but ask in the chemists and they've stopped selling it as they think people just want to drink it; same with Acetone and nail varnish remover has oil in it to condition your nails... Does anyone have a solution (no pun intended!)? Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  15. Have a look at Digital Blending. It's not an astro site, but the technique is the same and he explains it very well (and it may improve your landscape work ) Cheers
  16. OK. Went out tonight and checked the alignment with the Hotech; minor tweak to the secondary, but all the crosses lined up. Pointed at the moon to align the finderscope with the kit 25mm and focussed - it looked really sharp. Did a 2-star alignment and then tried a star-test on Betelgeuse unsing the kit 10mm. Firstly, the white (orange!) circle seemed to be a bit eliptical, but the inner circle was slightly off-centre so with the aid of my trusty assistant, we moved the primary until the circles appeared to be aligned. Once that was complete, I kept Betelgeuse central and tried to re-align the finder to discover I ran out of travel before I could get Betelgeuse in the cross-hairs. I popped the Hotech back in for a look and the cross was still centralised on the donut, but the reflected cross had disappeared off the target area. If I had any hair, I would be pulling it out by now! I still have a bad feeling about the secondary, but it looked OK yesterday; I have, however, never had that problem with the finder. Is it the eyepiece I used for the star test? I use the rig for imaging, so my eyepiece collection is fairly limited - I've got an 8mm Hyperion, but the rest is Barlows and the 2 Skywatcher kit eyepieces. Help!
  17. Have been suspicious of the collimation on my 10" Newt for a while, but having been unable to get focus on Jupiter through my webcam (with 2x Barlow), I thought I'd re-collimate. I felt the issue probably lay with the secondary as when I tried a star test after failing on Jupiter, the ring didn't seem to be a perfect circle (it was a little flat on one side), even though the centres were concentric, so brought it inside and printed off Astro-Baby's guide and set to work this evening. Having centred and checked the secondary, I got all 6 primary clips in the fov and swapped the film canister for a Cheshire to work on the primary. Whilst I could move the reflection around to get the spiders lined up with the Cheshire's cross-hairs, the donut on the primary remained off-centre so I broke out the Hotech (I've read that lasers aren't too good with secondaries so I tried to avoid using it) and when I turned it on, the red-dot shone proudly on the opposite wall. I re-adjusted the secondary to get the dot on the donut and moved the primary to aligment and replaced the collimation-cap to see that half the primary clips were missing. I repeated the process (got the clips showing) and then used the cross-hairs on the Cheshire centred on the donut and aligned the primary and again, half the clips were missing. It seems that I can either have the clips visible or the donut centred and somehow, I don't think that's right. I hope to get the rig out again on Friday night and will star-test then, but hopefully one of the SGL Gurus can tell me what I'm doing wrong before then! Thanks in anticipation.
  18. I tried gradientxterminator and never looked back! GradientXTerminator Tutorial I've got a couple of PS Plugins, but this is the most useful!
  19. What are you using to process the image after DSS? I usually stack in Nebulosity and then stretch the image in Photoshop; your image looks a lot like a pre-stretched one!
  20. Here's a lunar mosaic I did with my DMK and Skywatcher 250. It's a jpg from my iPhone so the quality isn't as good as the original... Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  21. Wouldn't the RGB 'filters' on the chip's Bayer Matrix restrict the effectiveness of any narrowband filters you put on the front end? Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  22. There's a few here: http://www.astronomycameras.com/en/products/sample-images.htm Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  23. I regularly use Distant Suns, Moon HD and GPS Astro on my iPhone. There's also a NASA app with links to all missions, images, videos, launch schedule, sighting opportunities and NASA TV, but it's not available on the Android (yet, anyway!). Geoff Sent using Tapatalk
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.