Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by icebergahed

  1. Hi so i have a alt/az mount and a dslr which i have been able to get some basic imaging done 5 secs or so. I would to get some longer exposures. Would it be beneficial to buy a guide camera and scope? Or just not bother? I enjoy the simple setup of these mounts compared to GEM mounts, and i dont have funds for a AVX. I have had a look at wedges but thr general consensus seems to be these are a waste of time. I am aware of the field rotation you get on these mounts even if you have a guide star tracking. I have a Nexstar SE6 mount. Thanks
  2. Hi this is the first image ive taken of M13. Any tips on improving this with the kit i have please. I don't know how to reduce or remove the grainy noise, i just end up loosing stars in Photoshop. Nexstar 6SE alt/az F6.3 reducer 10x 3 seconds light 5 x 3 seconds dark Canon 450D ISO 800 Deep sky stacker Photoshop
  3. Thank you John as i plan to do the same to my D450 in the couple of days. You have brought this process down for me to 3.5hrs?? with your great write up. Looking forward to some images from you.
  4. Thanks Mick That was a educational read for me. However John was going with a full spectrum mod. I THINK im aiming to let more red spectrum through. So would i be right in saying i would only be removing LPF-2/IR cut section and leave LPF-1 in?
  5. Sorry just missed page 2 of this thread ?
  6. Hi John Lightbucket has linked me into your thread as i believe we are trying to do the same thing. I have a D450. Ive found this image thats handy and believe its only LP1 that is to be removed. I think?
  7. I found this image looks there may be 2 LP filters for the 450D that need removing.
  8. Ok i thought removing the IR filter was the idea ? I assume LP1 stands for light pollution? What is 'shimming' the chip??? And is this something i need to do?
  9. Hi all I am considering dropping the IR filters out of my DSLR which i never use for anything else but astro. Ive seen word about Astronomik clip or Badder. Im not quite what this is. Is it something i need to get to replace????? Thanks
  10. Ive been trying to workout what makes a ccd either more suitable for deep sky imaging or planetary. Is it the:- Megapixels? Chip size? Pixel size? Fps??? Cooling? Im contemplating investing in a DS camera but too sure on what specs i need to look out for??? Could anyone give me a minimum spec for a DS camera. Thank you
  11. I think i was in the same place as you are right now, 2 years ago. After owning a 8inch goto reflector i wanted something more portable that i could bring overseas. After much debate it was between a 6SE or 8SE. At the time there was about £500 difference between the 2. I chose the 6SE and spent the 500 on accessories. Lithium battery pack, focal reducer, upgrade finder scope and a wifi module. Ignoring the difference in FOV (SCT vs Reflector) there really isnt much visually between a 6 and 8. I dont believe portability is the question here so much, but how much kit you will get with the extra cash you save.
  12. Ive been looking at reviews on this and have got no idea if its worth it. I would like to avoid using a laptop. I have a alt az mount so i get around 20-30 secs of exposure at the moment no problem. Im knocking together a wedge as well to see if it helps. I know GEM is the ideal for this, but i will keep with this mount for the mo, and upgrade to a VX some time in the future. I would love to get a 1 minute exposure. Your experiences on this guider would be appreciated.
  13. So If there was a list of 5 essential specs to look out for for a entry level DSO camera, what would it be? So chip size i get this covers how much of sky you are getting. Cooling i understand. Mega pixels? What would be a minimum? Any other have to have specs? At the moment im not sure if i would have to spend £100 or £600. I wouldnt be looking for poster quality imaging, just beginner stuff above dslr capabilty. Althou i have seen dslr images that do look like hubble took them. But im sure they may have been on a 20k mount and a 20k tube.
  14. Hi all I have been looking at ccd imaging devices online. They seem to range anywhere between £70-£3000. Heres the issue, i can not find a single place that gives you a run down of what is good for what. There are some labelled as "planetary" imaging which seem to be the bottom of the price scale. Then around £300 the "planetary" description disappears. Then you have the mega pixels and chip sizes which i sort of understand and finally you have a load of graphs showing light frequency sensitivity and a bunch of other tech specs only scientists understand. Is there a dummies description to all this as i cant seem to source a good place where i can understand anything. In paticular the ZWO cameras which there are around 30 of, seem to cover a wide range of purposes but with no real guidance....you can show as many datasheets and charts as you want, if only a genius understands what it all means ,its pointless. Rant over?
  15. Why does this guy polar aligning with the tube facing the south???? Southern hemisphere?
  16. Im looking to longer exposures, than i can currently get (20sec or so). My nexstar SE mount is neither accurate enough and my f6 sct is not the ideal design either. Just wanted to push the exposure time by another 10-20 sec of good light. Im a bit worried of the viewing position when looking at the north. It seems the angled latitude plate comes towards you and the eyepiece is almost hitting the base. Seems like an uncomfortable position. In comparison looking towards the south with the wedge seems more better orientated.
  17. Should the angle for north london be 52deg exactly that i measure off a protractor?
  18. So with the fork facing the pole in your pictue, it would in theory would be facing south???
  19. Hi Im planning on building a permanent pier in my garden with a wedge as i have a fork mount telescope(nexstar SE6). So my plan..... 100x100 box section sitting 1200mm out of the ground. 200x200 10mm steel plate welded on top. Aaaand thats as far as ive got. Ive seen various designs on the web for the wedge some more fancy looking than others..but what angle should this be set at? Is it exactly 51deg? (North London) Every image ive seen where telescope is sitting on a wedge seems to face south which seems odd as i am use to seeing eq mount tube facing north. Does this make it harder viewing on a wedge? If so should the pier be shorter? Thanks
  20. Ok so ive gone with this..... 1500mm focal length 8.8mm= 170x 12mm = 125x 250xbarlow 21mm = 71x 142xbarlow 32mm= 46x 92xbarlow I just picked up a ES 2x Barlow. And will be leaving the reducer off for visual?
  21. Now im really confused? if i do work my magnification s of f/l 945mm and want to get close to 190x i would need another eyepiece like 5mm
  22. Ahh why did i not see that☺ . so working on f10. Would i have the magnifcations covered? Or do i need another? Thanks
  23. So you have the exact same scope and reducer as me. What mm eyepieces do you have to work well at f10? I will try both settings but wanted to know if i had the general "mm" range roughly right. Thank you
  24. So the collection so far..... I just picked up a 12mm today. I have a f6.3 reducer for a f10 6inch telescope. I would prefer to either leave the reducer on or off. So with this in mind, do i need to get any more eyepieces or am i set magnification range wise? I guess what i mean is are these eyepiece magnifications more useful with or without the reducer. 1500mm focal length 8.8mm 82deg = 170x 12mm 60deg = 125x 21mm 68deg = 71x 32mm 50deg= 46x 945 focal length with reducer 8.8mm= 107x 12mm = 78x 21mm = 45x 32mm= 29x
  25. Hi I have been using a dslr for a while now and have started to look at dedicated cameras. I have a Nexstar 6SE alt/az which i know is the wrong mount for astrophotography however ive been quite happy with my dslr results. I would just like to bring it to the next level. I plan on getting a wedge and guide camera which is the bit i can figure out. But when it comes to the imaging camera i have no idea. Prices range from £100-£3000 with tech specs that only a scientist would understand. Some cameras are labelled "planetary" imagers????? There seems to be no clear guide and scale of what you are getting. So if i have a budget of around £300 what would be your recomendations?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.