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VigdisVZ

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Posts posted by VigdisVZ

  1. Like has been mentioned before, a dobsonian, while a bit bulky, gives the  most bang for the buck. However, the cheaper versions dont have a motor that tracks the sky, but getting used to nudging the telescope along takes a few hours and then it becomes second nature. They are a bit bulky like FunkyKoval35 mentions, but don't let that put you off if your husband is reasonably fit, the 150p isn't a problem to lug to and from the car if you dont have a back garden.

    Worth mentioning with a dobsonian reflector like the 150p mentioned above is that you may want a collimation cap like this one http://www.firstlightoptics.com/other-collimation-tools/cheshire-collimating-eyepiece.html in order to keep the mirrors aligned.

    Also I can recommend this book as an excellent companion to the scope. http://www.amazon.com/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundreds-Telescope/dp/0521153972

    Best of luck and please come back with any questions you might have, and send your husband here when he starts scratching his head.

    • Like 1
  2. Thank you.

    Oh and one more thing, can you increase the magnification if you have a DSLR attached onto a scope (not using the DSLR's zoom) if you cant, what magnification will the overall set up be magnified at?

    No, you shoot at prime focus ie no magnification. Just the scope. It "magnifies" just as a camera lens would at the same focal length. In this case 750mm.

    You can in theory attatch an eyepiece in between with an eyepiece projection adapter, but the focuser on a 150PDS lacks inwards travel to reach focus.

    If you're curious as to how big certain DSO will look with a specific camera/scope combo, have a look here... 

    And remember that a bigger higher focal length scope isnt always better, it depends on what you want to image. I chose the 150pds for its comparatively low focal length, allowing me to fit all the big popular DSO like M31, M33, M42, M45 within the FOV. If you want to go for pure planetary like Jupiter and Saturn, you want something else. And some people who like to image wide field emission nebulae go with smaller aperture lower focal length refractors that have superior optic quality.

  3. There is more to F-number than meets the eye. Just something to have in the back of your mind.

    Well, I can recommend the 150PDS as a good allrounder. It provides roughly the same "power" (with 750mm fl) as a frac, but has a much larger light collection area for visual use. Not too bulky, cheap, and does an "ok" job visually... and remember you need a coma corrector unless you want fuzzy eggy stars in the corners. This also applies to the 200p.

    Here are a few of my early examples with a 150PDS coupled with a DSLR (no guide, no coma corrector, 30sec subs), the processing is still off on these, but learning all takes a while ;)

    Double Cluster in Perseus 2014-09-05

    Another playaround with M31, old data

    M81 & M82

    M42 Reprocess

    2nd DSO M45

    A HEQ-5 and a 150PDS is a pretty good starting combo once you know the limitations.

    • Like 1
  4. Hi

    As you might already have guessed from reading posts here, there is no setup telescope that does everything.

    The EQ-5 is a bit weak for AP (thought it will work, but you will probably consider upgrading it pretty soon).

    The 200p is a good alrounder, but bulky on an underpowered mount when you start loading up with cameras and guidetubes. But it will work.

    The Equinox is a very good scope for photography and will probably be a bit less suited for visual due to smaller aperture. But it will work.

    So do you want a setup that does everything, but not super-good?

    If your main use is AP, I would recommend getting atleast an HEQ-5 (better yet a NEQ-6 but I realise there is a price difference). I also think that the 150PDS hits the sweet spot between visual and easy of photography. However: Personally I've been thinking about getting a 200p or 250p for visual use on my NEQ-6 but everytime I come up with the only answer: Get a dob for visual, and get a smaller frac (not unlike the equinox) for AP.

    Instead of trying to cut corners and fit everything into one scope, perhaps its better to get a setup thats really good for one thing? Instead of bad at both?

    Besides, if you decide to get a secondary scope will keep you occupied during those long hours the AP setup minds its own business collecting data.

    Also, I've heard lots of stories where people try to use a bulky reflector on an EQ-mount for visual and always end up with the focuser in an awkward position when going for different areas of the sky.

    My recommendation would in the end be to hold your horses a bit, and think long and hard to what you want to really do, and get a kit that you wont grow out of quickly. 

    Also keep in mind that a scope that's good for capturing images of DSO, rarely does planetary very good.

    To sum up, the equipment you've listed isnt bad by any means, but I think you do your wallet a favor by figuring out what really matters, and put all the eggs in that basket.

  5. If I was building a tank, I wouldn't settle for anything less than 60Ah lesiure battery. Even big jump starters like my 19Ah one will start to buckle after a while once you load up with laptops, CCD's, guiders, dew heaters etc.

    You also shouldn't run it completely dry as this will damage it, iirc.

    The question is, how portable do you want to be? I assume between the scope and mount, you already need to use a car...

  6. As you might have seen I've already bounced this one a few times in the forum (and on swedish Astronet) to get some feedback. And I don't think I'll do anything further with it, so here is the official version! 

    Since I don't have a backyard obsy it's always a struggle quickly hit the road out to a darker site with my gear whenever there is a reasonable gap in the clouds. This time I also had to throw away half of the subs because focus crept off slightly mid sequence. In the end I got about 39x30sec subs at ISO800 (timer remote I bought last week was faulty),16 flats, 40 bias and 1 dark (I thought I took a sequence, but I took a single by mistake).

    This is the first time sucessfully using T-shirt flats. There is a slight gradient left, but that could possibly be LP from the airport.

    The yellow star color just jumped at me, but there wasn't really a hint of blue so I had to fiddle around to get the balance right, so color wise it might have slight hint of artistic freedom.

    I've learned a ton reprocessing this image over and over, can't wait to get my hands on a coma corrector, guide solution, working timer remote and who knows, maybe an astromodded DSLR.

    Thanks for looking.

    gallery_26290_2172_181497.png

    • Like 2
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