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Everything posted by VigdisVZ

  1. It's offers great value for the money, but as a fully manual telescope it takes a bit of getting used to navigate with it. However, once you're used to a dobsonian, you can easily upgrade to the larger models with great ease. If you're just starting out I'll recommend the book "Turn Left At Orion" as a good guide to what objects to chase down with your new little dobsonian. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundreds-Telescope/dp/0521153972/ref=dp_ob_title_bk
  2. You could potentially use narrowband filters, but RGB filters are a waste of time. However, since a DSLR already filters away much of the narrowband signal, that also is waste of time. A modded DSLR however....
  3. Yeah Robin and Nicos is right, if you're looking at spending only 250£, don't spend it on electronics. Get a 150P Skywatcher Dobsonian, and get a nice eyepiece , a Telrad and start learning your way around the sky.
  4. A 120mm APO is quite heavy. I'd settle for an NEQ-6 (Syntrek is the version without GOTO).
  5. Hi again. The Orion 80mm has cheap lens setup (does not have ED glass) and will give chromatic aberration, hence not suited for photography. It's more suited as a guide-telescope or for simple visual observations. The CG4 is weak and will struggle to give consistent results compared to a HEQ-5 or better mounts.
  6. Hello and welcome, you came to the right place There are a few things to consider in this case since we're talking about a kid, not an adult: Binoculars is the adult solution. Versatile, but very fidgety to use if you're not patient. Binoculars are excellent for their versatility but not for "wowing" a budding astronomer.You risk having him lose interest in astronomy by giving him the wrong choice here.I believe that a kid wants something that looks and feels like a real telescope or they'll lose interest. Again, the "wow" factor.There are also good and bad choices for telescopes, and much ha
  7. Are you looking for a DSLR to dual-use for daytime or one for only deepsky?
  8. Sorry, mean to say HEQ-5 and NEQ-6. The Celestron equalivents are Advanced VX and CGEM. Can't speak about any other mounts since I have no experience or know any people who use them. THere are more expensive APO-refractors than the 80ED, also the 80ED is a type that comes from several manufacturers. The PDS-range newtonians are good, using the 150 myself, but they need a coma corrector to take a flat field image, much the same as refractors need flatteners. It's a jungle of equipment out there, so be sure to read the book I recommended first, before buying ANYTHING else. You can also look at t
  9. Hi again The 10" solid tube is not suited for imaging. Way too large, heavy and bulky for a normal mount to handle. Even the NEQ-6 will struggle with it. Unless you start looking at the really expensive mounts... but those are not good for beginning. When you read about the load capacities of different mounts, you should always count that in half when imaging. A NEQ-6 will handle 20kg or so for visual, but it's only recommended to load 10kg for imaging. You honestly need a mount that can carry the telescope + extras and not struggle. If you overload the equipment you will have to throw images
  10. Can in theory be done with Live View or live video output on a computer, but its going to be hard and even more super hard once you start stacking the magnification...
  11. A) Yeah, video for Jupiter and Saturn. It really helps with a tracking mount but you can if you're really good push the scope in order to capture enough frames. It'll probably be extremely hard since the starlight is a very narrow band of light, and the atmosphere makes it move. Longer exposures with a tracking mount is probably better, plus you get more context by seeing the surrounding stars. You could however try with high ISO and short exposure times, you might get lucky if the star is bright enough... C) M31 is faint compared. You need to be using equatorial, tracking mount for this.
  12. I know some guys in sweden are successfully using balconies for both narrowband and planetary. Should be the same when it comes to stability.
  13. The truth about the Dob Mob is out there...
  14. The HEQ-5 is a very capable mount, highly recommended, and will be useful if you decide to go imaging. And the 200p is a very good visual instrument, however if you want to go down the photography route, maybe a refractor is to consider (on the same mount). I think the celestron kit is in the same ballpark.
  15. Red light doesn't ruin the eye's sensitivity to light. The easiest way is to get a LED headlamp and cover it with either a few layers of red transparent candy wrapper, or use something like red nail polish. Here's a picture of a club-friend doing some sketching with his 6-inch. He has a red clip-on light on his sketchpad. I just illuminated him some extra with my red headlamp as I was exposing with the camera.
  16. Flats is taken when the camera is mounted in the exact same position as when taking an image, meaning, they're best done right before or after, since only then can you make sure everything is the same in the setup. Also, the idea is to catch any dust on the lens/mirror, so it would be useless to take them later as moving the setup would cause spots to fall off or new ones to stick. Darks can be taken with the camera removed or with lens/telescope cap on, just the ambient temperature is the same. People can build a darks library with a temperature controlled fridge, although I've heard some peo
  17. Maybe it's just the vignetting of the optical train that gets stronger with a bright lightsourse. Have you tried taking flats to see if this is the case?
  18. Don't bother with calibration frames when shooting wide field
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