KyleStoke

On 19/10/2022 at 21:44, Clarkey said:

I recently purchased one from @Notty but am yet to use it in anger due to cloud (and worse, it is a tiny bit too bit for my observatory). So there might be a second hand one for sale in the coming weeks☹️

I'm not convinced about 'portable', it is heavy and bulky. Maybe I am getting old.....

If you are forced into the sale let me know 

Thanks Olly 

It was just the shadow of the spider vanes in the donuts that made me wonder, im used to refractor flats which dont have this kind of thing 

Thanks Onikkinen

I just wasn't sure with them having diffraction spikes ok a kind. 

This might show it more

Hi Onikkinen 

Yeah its stretched, I suspect that collimation is out possibly causing the off centre vignetting also there is an issue with tilt in the coma corrector which is visible in top right most of all, not sure if this causes and issue with flats though. 

The donut although its difficult to tell is  more like a nuclear sign i dont think this picture pics it up ill try to exaggerate it  

Hi 

Can anybody tell me what causes these shadows im my flats, the look like loads of shadows of the secondary 

These were taken with a tshirt over the scope which is a 250pds shooting at a light panel 

Just to confirm there is no grub screw to remove the single speed knob 

1 minute ago, StevieDvd said:

I doubt the single speed side is not removable see here for someone fitting a ZWO EAF to their 130PDS - hopefully your focuser is the same.  It should be a case of lining up the grub screw with the access hole to remove it.

If your coupler is narrow enough to fit inside the focuser frame you could use the same hole to secure it., otherwise the coupler will stick out a little further. Once the coupler is fitted you can then check for the bracket mounting position.

 

 

Hi Stevie, 

Its more than possible I missed the grub screw, its installed in my dome so not the best light in there.

The coupler I modded fits nicely the issue is normally the bracket is fixed with the locking screw which is normally in the centre of the focuser plate. on this one it isnt its got 2 both off centre. I could drill out the bracket I have but it would be very close to the edge. 

On 13/09/2022 at 18:46, StevieDvd said:

The usual practise is to fit the motor to the opposite side of the dual speed knob.  The fine turn side is probably too fine a tune for the small increments the stepper motor provides.  I've not seen anyone fit to the dual side but that does not mean it should not be done.

Fast focus or probably more aptly named coarse focus is the single speed, the fine focus would be slower.

As well as the correct bracket I expect FLO also provide the correct replacement screws as well and the correct size coupler.

 

 

Im probably wrong but I don't think the single speed side was removable. 

Unfortunately there isn't a ready made bracket at FLO but they are looking if the MN190 bracket will fit. If not I'll probably adapt the one I have. I've drilled out the coupler to fit already but it needs to have the bracket secured properly.

On 13/09/2022 at 17:49, andymw said:

Someone already flipped the focussing wheels (probably to add a ZWO EAF or something similar which connects to the fast focusser).  As has been said:  it's easy to just remove and flip the wheels (leaving the main focusser attached to the tube).  FWIW:  I did see that the Lakeside focuser connects to the fast focusser also, so wondering why you want to flip it?

Hi I have swapped it over now. I wanted it on the inside because it overhung the front of the scope and also it was just neater for the cables.

Thanks Both, it is set up left handed so you would of been ok on this one. 

Hi All 

I have just come into possession of a Skywatcher 250pds but need to add a Lakeside motor focuser to it. 

First problem is the dual speed knob is on the wrong side, it is towards the front on the scope, does anyone know if its reversible?

Also there isnt a bracket mentioned on FLO's website, does anyone know if one exists or at £50 for a bent piece of aluminium would i be best to fabricate my own.

Great Alan, nice to see a rarer object 

Give the device hub a go it seemed to work fine when I was messing last night. 

1 hour ago, Skipper Billy said:

Just a wee heads up.

I had a focuser issue in that NINA always picked up the incorrect values when first connected from the ASCOM driver. If I disconnected then reconnected the focuser it always picked up the correct values.

I posted this issue to FLO as they are responsible for Lakeside products, the ASCOM forum and Discord (the NINA forum).

Everything pointed towards a NINA issue as the exact same setup had worked perfectly under SGP.

One of the devs picked the issue up and agreed it was a NINA issue especially as it was 100% repeatable.

Within 3 days I was asked to download a specific Beta version to test and it worked perfectly every time. 

Apparently it was a timing issue - which means the square root of diddly squat to me.

Might be worth trying the latest Beta version Version 1.10 HF2 BETA003 from here https://nighttime-imaging.eu/download/

If that doesn't work its worth persevering with the devs on Discord. 

 

 

exactly what i have done and all seems to be working fine.

got to do proper tests though and that will be after i fix my dome issue.

Tomato have you tried it through Device Hub? also what version of Ascom are you on

Hi

Does anyone know how to enter a negative GEM value in Device Hub, i need it to be -46ish.

Also not sure if somebody could confirm but in POTH my radius was set to .9935m so assume it is just going to be 994mm

hi tomata i have managed it now through device hub, but just got the next problem of trying to configure the dome settings in it.

I cant work out how to put a negative gem offset value in

Hi tomato, i also have this problem but cant get my to work with your work around either

4 hours ago, Adreneline said:

Wow! That is an awesome amount of integration time - well done you for sticking at it and producing such a good result.

The stars are quite dominant. I have found it can be helpful to make a duplicate of the image before going non-linear. Do a few partial stretches with HT on the original and then whip the stars out using Starnet. Continue to stretch and process the starless image to your satisfaction. Once you're happy with the starless version you can put the stars back from a lesser stretch duplicate using PixelMaths or maybe using layers in something like GIMP, PS, etc.

Great image though. The Heart is one of my favourites.

Thank you for sharing.

Adrian

 

Starnet, remove the stars then add them back in in PS layer set to screen. I've being experimenting with it so stars don't get white clipped. 

Hi

Ive been messing with this one for quite a while but ultimatley had terrible RGB data especially in green, i think at the time of shooting the green had either been affect by high cloud or even sunrise, this was shot back at the start of September.

This is taken with ASI1600mm with Samyang 135mm

Ha - 29 x 300sec

R - 30 x 120sec

G - 12 x 120sec

B - 30 x 120sec

Nice pic Bob

Cheers Stu, I thought the view would be to wide to get a planetary nebula 

Hi

This is my attempt at Kembles cascade, if you stare it is there. Did try to selectivley enhance the stars In the cascade but still kept bringing out too much background.

Image details

AS1600M RGB 120s subs 2hours each channel with samyang 135mm

Also there is a strange blue object top centre anyone know what it is, Artifact, star gone strange?

18 minutes ago, mAnKiNd said:

you mean the bracket that comes with the Pegasus Focuscube?

Yeah thats the one cheers

23 hours ago, mAnKiNd said:

Cool

the only two things to consider, is that you need to preset you aperture (I have mine at f4 for example) before you clamp on the ring. Also, the locking screw wont close the ring fully down, but has nevertheless been rock solid since the day I installed it without loosening up. 

HTH

Minos

Hi mAnKiNd

Where did you get the bracket for the Stepper motor?