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ollypenrice

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Posts posted by ollypenrice

  1. I don't like the sound of SBIG's answer and they have just moved a long way down my wish list. A very long way down. I don't like firms like that.

    I get a much shorter line on one of my Atik 4000s and bizarrely it sometimes goes with darks and stacking and sometimes doesn't. I think that dither guiding and drizzle stacking would make it disappear, though. In any event, when I do get it in a final stack it is dead easy to deal with in Ps.

    Keep us posted on the SX response. There seem to be quite a lot of issues with SX stuff but the reputation for helpful service is always sustained.

    Olly

  2. Yes, there is some confusion here. An OSC camera with the usual UV/IR blocker is producing the best 'luminance' of which it is capable. I think Zakalwe is mistaken, here. If you put a Luminance filter in front of an OSC camera you will get what you would get without it, an OSC image with an interpolated luminance layer.

    Various programmes will extract 'luminance' from an OSC image. For instance, in Ps you can go into LAB colour mode and one channel is the Lightness. This is worth processing differently as Martin says. It is like processing a luminance layer. You push for detail, contrast, sharpness (another word for contrast really?). In the other channels (colour) you are interested in saturation and noise reduction but not detail. One mono advantage is that you can collect this layer faster by letting all of the pixels collect all of the colours simultaneously.

    I may be wrong on some of this because I am not a technical bod as an imager but I think in essence a luminance filter is just a UV/IR blocker, no?

    Olly

  3. So my MN190 is gathering twice as much light in the same time on the same object as my ED120 ?

    They are roughly the same FL 1000mm compared to 900mm the only difference is 190xF5.3 compared to 120xF7.5

    If the focal length is (more or less) the same you can just directly compare the areas of the objectives, Pi R squared. That is your light grasp and it is concentrated onto the same area because the f length is the same. OK, central obstruction, but in round terms you are indeed twice as fast.

    Olly

  4. Yes, yes! This the whole point which people miss. If you use larger pixels for longer focal length scopes (and these can be software created pixels, they don't have to be hardware) they they are just as fast as their shorter focal length cousins. There is nothing magic about focal length - it is the aperture which determines how many photons you get. A 14" scope WILL blow a 4" away if you image correctly with it, whatever the focal length.

    NigelM

    Yes, and people imaging with C14s will often bin even the luminance on large chip CCD cameras. There is your equivalent of the coarser, faster grain. But you also have to accept that you can't just go on using a bigger and bigger chip. For one thing you can't afford to and for another the scope won't cover it!!

    No doubt about it though, a well fettled F2 Hyperstar C14 is going to take a bit of beating.

    Olly

  5. Brilliant, Keith. I almost wish I still lived in Wirksworth so I could cadge a peep!

    I'm interested in what you say about angling the EPs in a little since I was thinking about this recently. I have a good pair of small 10x25s for brding but can't get to use the two eyes at very close focus because the images won't combine properly in my brain. However, in another pair they will. So I wonder how binoculars are made and what the optical and neurological issues are.

    Olly

  6. Stunning Olly - please excuse my ignorance - how did you get 8 point diffraction spikes??

    Skill and daring!!

    No, it is the iris in the camera lens from stopping down to around f5. I quite like it but if it looks dodgy on the final image I will run around the big stars in the TEC140 and Registar them in over the diffraction effects.

    Olly

  7. This is the top part of my 'Great Orion Project.'

    The bright red giant is Betelguese. This is 2 panels at 85mm in a Samyang camera lens and Atik 4000, 15x10mins RGB per panel and 12 hours of Ha. The nebula is huge and very faint. It will need double the RGB time to stand up at full size but with a 6 panel final shot I may compromise on that! This is only a quick experiment.

    Olly

    1122233981_fNLPu-X2.jpg

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