surfindogg

Looks so good on that mount. 

On 05/06/2021 at 21:36, Deadlake said:

Asked Sergi at astrodevices if there is a digital circle encoder kit. Not the first person who has asked. 🧐

Serge suggested to me that he needed an example of the mount to work with to make an encoder kit for it.

1 hour ago, heliumstar said:

Freshly cleaned just for the photo. It's completely invisible

How did you clean it? I have never licked either of my Taks!! 🙂

2 hours ago, HollyHound said:

Ok, I've done a little indoors test, using the StellaMira 80mm f1/10 (OTA length 800mm) with WO 2" diagonal... all movement is relative to the objective end (as would be seen through the eyepiece).

Initially with a TeleVue DeLite 13mm inserted, starting by slightly loosening the altitude clutch, adjusted the scope until it feels well balanced, then tightened the clutch just enough so that it can move up and down with the slow motion controls and also smoothed freely and smoothly by hand. I then started switching eyepieces:

• Meade 16mm Plossl (lighter) - Scope position unaffected - Free movement unaffected - Slow motion controls unaffected.
• TeleVue Panoptic 24mm (heavier) - Scope position unaffected - Free movement unaffected - Slow motion movement downwards was affected very slightly (as if fighting the heaver weight at the eyepiece end), tightening the clutch a tiny amount and back to normal.
• OVL PanaView 32mm (even heavier) - Scope position started to rise - Free movement unaffected - Slow motion movement downwards was affected, but tightening the clutch a bit more arrested the motion and allowed slow motion controls.
• OVL PanaView 38mm (heaviest) - Scope position started to rise rapidly - Free movement ok, but more difficult to move downwards - Slow motion movement downwards was not possible and the clutch would have to be over-tightened (in my opinion, and noting the warning in the manual) in order to prevent un-commanded movement. Adjusting the scope forward slightly in the clamp, restored balance and all was fine again.

When balanced, the scope remains very smooth and controllable at all times, with just the lightest of finger touches, in both altitude and azimuth.

Conclusion... within normal usage limits there is no need to re-adjust the balance of the scope, but switching between very heavy and normal/light eyepieces, does require a slight re-balance of the scope (or I guess some sort of counterweight ?).

Presumably this kind of behaviour is fairly typical for this class of mount ?

Hope this helps

Gary

Thank you Gary, that is excellent information. 
I think this is quite typical of this type of mount. 

I was considering a DM4 but cost put me off. I had talked to a local precision engineering company about prototyping a  mount design that had the advantages of the DM design with slo mo controls but it was beyond what I could afford.

20 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Thanks @surfindogg. Which scope was that?

That was with the FC76 DCU Jeremy. The FS60 currently sits on a Slik photo tripod and hardly sees the stars at the moment! 😞

17 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Good question - and often a killer!

How is your Vamo in that regard?

With the beefier teflon washers I added now bedded in, it works well. I don't have the specific weights but I can go from an ES 24mm 68º to a UO 7mm ortho without it dropping, That is with the mount tightened up somewhat but I can still move it with one finger. 

When you have finished testing it Stu, I am happy for you to send it to me for more testing!

I can compare it to the Vamo. 😉

I forgot I started this thread!

Good to see FLO thought they were worth supplying and some great reviews/feedback.

Now we just need Serge to make encoders for it and I am sold. [My light pollution is getting so bad we are thinking of moving!]

My usual question - how sensitive is the Zero to eyepiece changes?

I have Stu's old Vamo which works very nicely but I am tempted by a Zero. Slo mo appeals.

I got some thicker teflon washers for the Vamo and now they have worn in, it seems to work even better for me.

9 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Interesting but only 7kg capacity.but small and compact. Would depend on what the UK price would be. 🤔
https://astrohutech.store/product/scopetech-mount-zero/

UK prices seem to be in £ what they are in $ in the US so might be a bit pricy compared to similar products.

The fact that is disassembles for transport is a plus though.

Not sure if I am allowed to link to the thread on CN where I saw it but there are photos of a variety of scopes mounted. 

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/696588-new-alt-az-scopetech-zero/

Hoping our favourite sponsor might be able to supply these. 😉

Looks quite interesting. Zero mount by ScopeTech Japan.

My question for M2C owners, if you change from a 50gm ortho to a 500gm eyepiece, does the M2C stay put

On 16/05/2020 at 13:35, Stargazer McCabe said:

Vamo works wonderfully when travelling. Packs down nicely and handles the Tak FC-100 DF easily. At home I prefer the AYO II we have as I use a 2" diagonal and eyepieces at home and often an 8" EdgeHD SCT on the other side.

it's not really a review, but here's how we travel...

 

It was this that made me think of encoders for the Vamo. It is a great mount and I probably need to give it a bit more time but I like the look of the M2C.

I thought there was someone here who had both but must have been mistaken. PMd you re Borg rings.

What? Nobody? Need more popcorn Nicos!

Hi all,

I have tried many different alt az mounts in the past and after PM chatting with Nicos about alt az mounts re DM4 or M2C + encoders, have come to the conclusion that I don’t need (in other words can’t afford!) the DM4. I would be using any mount with my Tak FC76 DCU[Q]. [I hardly use the FS60CB anymore!!]

If anyone has experience of both the Vamo traveller and the M2C, I would appreciate some feedback on which they feel might be better for my requirements. 
My bugbear with alt/az mounts is the need to rebalance when changing eyepieces. Which of the two is less sensitive to changes? Is the M2C much heavier than the Vamo? Which moves more smoothly when cranked tight enough not to slip?

I already have a Vamo and it is great, so light and portable, but should I get an M2C + encoders (I have a Nexus 1 already) or should I stick with the Vamo and get encoders for that instead?

Thanks in advance for any input on this,

Andrew.

On 04/05/2020 at 17:30, Louis D said:

That's just the nature of the beast due to the center edge to flip left for right.  Just avoid viewing bright point sources at night with it.  Use a planar diagonal instead of those objects.

Pretty much what Baader said too.

Resurrecting an old topic - I have had a Baader Amici Zeiss prism for a couple of years and only just started to use it for astro. For daytime use it is fantastic, clear and sharp. But at night - oh dear! A prominent spike through bright objects.

I tried a photo with quickly knocked up artificial star.

I reached out to Baader to see if they would be willing to sort me out with a perfect example but so far no reply.

Just wondering what I can do about the new neighbours floodlight. They moved in 2 years ago and spent loads of money doing up the house and garden. First annoyance was that they dug up the gas main in the road outside our house and we had to sit outside on the hottest day of the year until it was fixed. 

Then endless building noise - they DIYed - and massive bonfires burning building waste.

Then they built a massive shed that overlooks our property and have now started putting said floodlight on from dusk until 11.30pm. Despite having blackout curtains in the bedroom the light still penetrates, particularly around the edges of the curtains. If they are going to be using their shed/mancave every night then it is goodbye night sky!!

I know they have been rude and aggressive to other neighbours so will send a letter outlining the process of complaint I will follow if they keep it as it is.

Seriously thinking of moving now if things ever get back to normal.

Andrew.

6 hours ago, JeremyS said:

Also installed a Tak MEF-3 micro focuser

 

Looks good. 

7 hours ago, JeremyS said:

Takahahsi FQR-1 quick release adapter for Tak 6x30 finderscope arrived and installed on the Takahashi FC76 DCU (I also have one on my Tak FS102)

 

I have the ADM version. Very useful too.

9 hours ago, F15Rules said:

My newly cobbled together eyepiece set after selling most of my hi end eyepieces to help fund my Tak FS128.

All Japanese glass ?..

From left to right:

Vixen LV4mm

Tak LE 7.5mm

Celestron 10mm plossl with reticule

Pentax XL 10.5mm

Meade 4000 swa 13.8mm

Meade 4000 15mm plossl

Tak LE 18mm

Meade 4000 26mm plossl

Vixen LV 40mm

Older designs all, but all very sharp across the field?.

Dave

I love the smell of vintage glass in the evening!

4 hours ago, jonathan said:

I bought it from a car boot sale for about £5, bought the foam for £8, bargain.  Just need to decide on layout now.  I may just put in the eyepieces, filters and star diagonal for now.

We all like a bargain.? I like the shape of it.

16 minutes ago, Moonshane said:

in all seriousness I think that's actually one of the reasons it doesn't matter as much as people seem to make out 

That's what I was thinking. My left eye sees more colour and my right eye is a bit sharper. I can't afford to go the bino route yet though!

8 hours ago, DRT said:

That would be great, Shane. It might debunk another Astro-myth or confirm common belief that it's much best to have matched pairs.

 

I just wish I had matched eyes!