knobby

Massive effort and well worth it ! really nice.

Lovely image, colour is subjective as so much variance in monitors, phones etc 

I love that, looks like Jupiter's beady eye watching the transit approach 😉

I think Vlaiv sometimes forgets we aren't all maths experts but I believe he is saying aim for around F15, derived from F/ratio = 2 * pixel_size / lambda => 2 * 2.9um / 0.4um => F/14.5

This works out the same as using the easier (maybe less accurate) recommendation of 5 x pixel size (or 2 x in poor seeing / 7 x in excellent seeing)  as F number or in your case 5 x 2.9 = F15 🙂

HI all, my first dabble with WinJupos.

I've never tried WinJupos before and I never really seem to be able to improve my planets due to poor seeing locally (I'm surrounded by houses)

I can see a slight improvement over the normal 3 to 4 minute runs. but have introduced an edge artefact !

This was best 10% of 6 4minute runs, approx 28 to 30k images stacked in AS3, lightly sharpened in Registax then derotated in WinJupos and sharpened again with Registax wavelets.

Taken at around 7pm in the best gap available between neighbours roofs.

Nice, seeing was poor here too ( always seems to be 😞 )

Forecast was good but could hardly focus Saturn !

Really not sure but it looks good 🤞🏻

I guess if you zoom in and look at the numbers you might be able to make some sense of it ?

I think Nina has a more graphic display but as far as I know it's only on a live capture just taken .

Not too sure but this is the 2D contour diagram it shows for your image

What are you looking for ? If it's just tilt etc ASTAP can show how much and what direction .

That's lovely, how long does the 11“ take to reach thermal equilibrium?

Nice first attempt - as Michael said, planets are tiny so you really want to try a barlow  to make it look bigger.

I've taken the liberty of saving your image as jpeg, and cropped a lot of the dark background.

I don't have an AsiAir but have seen YouTube videos of it being used for planetary so it must be doable 🤞🏻

I really wanted to make my 8000th post here a good one, but weather and circumstances have scuppered any imaging time lately.

So, the trusty old Google Pixel 4a leant up against a mug on the windowsill will have to do 🙂

Winter is on it's way.

Nice, glad the patience paid off.

Lovely image ! It's just so sad how we are losing dark skies so rapidly 😞

looks very interesting but so does a Skywatcher 180 Mak for £1000, or am I missing something ? Build quality maybe ?

Could it be the bit depth, some of the actions won't work in 16 bit?

That's really nice 👍🏻

If you want critical 😀 you might have overdone something in processing, there is something 'funky' going on with some of the stars.

But still a very nice image.

Another top notch capture and process 👍🏻

Glad you're back up and imaging ... And solved the solving problem 😁

Yep, great answer from Vlaiv 😀

There is no point in having a large black area around the planet so crop in as close as your tracking will allow, it uses less data so allows faster write speed .

Loosely speaking, for planets you want to be aiming for approx 5 x pixel size (3.75 for the 224) so around F19 would be good.

So a 3x Barlow will give you f15 on your scope,I'd say give it a go 🙂

Remember to cool the scope to surroundings as best as possible and check collimation.

That's really nice 👍🏻

2 hours ago, Chrb1985 said:

Hmm Ive been pretty humble up to this point. If that's the only mod I'm doing to this circuit board. And never plan to touch it again. What does the color on the heat shrinkers matter?

And is it s problem to use that thick wires? I followed a other post on this forum when I decided on cables. Can you tell my again what I'm risking here?

You're probably right about not touching it again, but if you ever sell it or have to repair it, it would be good to know which is + and - hence the red heat shrink.

The thickness of the wire will mean stiffness which could result in the tracking being pulled off the board when bending the wires to fit back into the mount.

But keep at it, you're doing surprisingly well 🙂

That's really good from a 5" scope, as Geoff suggested try a smaller region of interest, it should get your frames per second up.

Keep trying as the seeing is different every night.