Bobby1970

1 minute ago, Davey-T said:

Never made one but have the Peltier stuck to a finned aluminium heatsink with thermal paste then the fan sucking air away from it maybe.

Dave

That was my thinking tbh. 

Hopefully someone who has made one can confirm. 🙂

I have just ordered some bits to attempt to make my own cooler for my 178MC camera.

One query i have though, should the fan suck the warm air away from the heatsink, or should it be sucking ambient air onto/across the heatsink?

Thanks in advance

18 minutes ago, randomic said:

Swinton, I'm afraid, a little further away 😁; suburb near Manchester

That'll teach me to have a few drinks in the afternoon. Lol. Welcome anyway. 

Welcome to the lounge. I'm just outside Swindon myself. Good to see someone local joining this amazing site 

1 hour ago, GrampyG said:

Hi Dom

Just waiting to try it out again when weather improves. Pretty sure I know what was wrong but I will only admit it under duress🤒

Not the old "leaving the scope cap on" ????

😂

Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me will be along. 

But, just to rule out the obvious, you have entered your camera and scope focal length correctly in the ASIAir settings I assume? 

Today i came across some software called Topaz Denoise and thought i would have another crack at processing the Iris Nebula i captured a couple of nights back.

I know its a long way from perfect but i much prefer this one lol. 

18 minutes ago, GrampyG said:

I've recently obtained the EQ R-6-Pro 6 and the ASIair Pro now to start guided photography. I've only recently started astrophotography but all my stuff so far has been unguided. However, I have a bit of a problem with my ASIair Pro - the problem is me, NOT the ASI! (Probably getting past my sell-buy date.)

Couple of questions:

1. Can polar alignment be undertaken using a DSLR (D600) on ASI air pro or should I continue using my polar scope (EQ R-6-pro)?

2 The 'home position' is off by around 10° when set via the ASI - I have seen this brought up on another forum for the EQ6-R-Pro and HEQ5. It seems that the workaround, according to ZWO, is to undertake one star alignment before switching on the software. I haven't tried this yet. I then assume that one carries on with the ASI app, Guiding, etc, or should I carry on using handset for object finding?

I haven't tried the following but I believe the easiest way for me to use the ASI is to polar alignment normally with the polar scope, do one or 2 star alignment via the handset, switch on the software and carry on from there.

I must admit that getting this thing working was not as easy as the manual/videos suggest -  at least for me.

Any help or advice would be most appreciated.

Thank you for reading.
 

I believe you can use some DSLR's, (check with ZWO or instructions) for both polar align and image capture.

Its interesting you say about the home position after polar aligning as i have also found this with my AZGti. I dont use any alignment routine in the mount, i simply use ASIAir to "goto" an object and then platesolve it. 

Hope this helps, tbh i am still finding my way with it a little. 

thanks @vlaiv

Seems to me that the lowest gain would give the best dynamic range?

Guess its a trade off of the two?

interesting point you make regards read noise and non cooled cameras, thank you. 

Im considering making my own cooler for the camera, i realise it will not be as good as a proper cooled cam but got to be worth a punt i reckon.

I use my ASiAir these days so am still unsure of how the "gain" setting in sharpcap equates to the one in AsiAir. Might enquire on the ZWO forums.

Can anyone shed any light on gain settings for the 178MC at all? 

I read something that said 270 gives lowest read noise so have generally been using this setting. Although i also read something that said the "scale" in sharpcap is different to perhaps ASIAir??

Surely there is an optimal gain setting which should give reasonable results most of the time. tbh i am unsure of the relationship between gain, dynamic range and offset (whatever that is). 

Captured over a couple of nights. Approx 60 subs of 180s at 270 gain. with the 178mc and 72mm Semi apo refractor mounted on my AZGTi and using ASiAir Pro.

I used some darks and flats. but as i don't have a cooled cam i used darks from both sessions, not sure this is right or not tbh. 

Not as good as i hoped for tbh. Must try harder. lol

Thanks for looking anyway 🙂

Thought i would have a play with this, just for something to do really.

I used Startools, Paint.Net and windows photo editor

File loaded in LRGB module [C:\Users\rober\Downloads\Oiii.fit].
Loading red channel data
File loaded in LRGB module [C:\Users\rober\Downloads\Sii.fit].
Loading green channel data
File loaded in LRGB module [C:\Users\rober\Downloads\Ha.fit].
--- Bin
Parameter [Scale] set to [(scale/noise reduction 50.00%)/(400.00%)/(+2.00 bits)]
Image size is 1375 x 1100
--- Auto Develop
Parameter [Ignore Fine Detail <] set to [1.1 pixels]
Parameter [Outside RoI Influence] set to [15 %]
Parameter [RoI X1] set to [290 pixels]
Parameter [RoI Y1] set to [300 pixels]
Parameter [RoI X2] set to [1091 pixels (-284)]
Parameter [RoI Y2] set to [891 pixels (-209)]
Parameter [Detector Gamma] set to [1.00]
Parameter [Shadow Linearity] set to [50 %]
--- Contrast
Parameter [Expose Dark Areas] set to [No]
Parameter [Compensate Gamma] set to [No]
Parameter [Precision] set to [256 x 256 pixels]
Parameter [Dark Anomaly Filter] set to [6 pixels]
Parameter [Aggressiveness] set to [50 %]
Parameter [Dark Anomaly Headroom] set to [50 %]
--- HDR
Parameter [Small Detail Precision] set to [Max]
Parameter [Channels] set to [Brightness Only]
Parameter [Algorithm] set to [Reveal DSO Core]
Parameter [Dark/Bright Response] set to [Full]
Parameter [Detail Size Range] set to [1000 pixels]
Parameter [Strength] set to [1.5]
--- Wavelet Sharpen
Parameter [Structure Size] set to [Large]
--- SNR-aware Wavelet Sharpening
Parameter [Scale 1] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Scale 2] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Scale 3] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Scale 4] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Scale 5] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Mask Fuzz] set to [4 pixels]
Parameter [Amount] set to [300 %]
Parameter [High SNR Size Bias] set to [85 %]
Parameter [Low SNR Size Bias] set to [0 %]
Parameter [Dark/Light Enhance] set to [50% / 50%]
Mask used (BASE64 PNG encoded)

--- Deconvolution
Parameter [Image Type] set to [Deep Space]
Parameter [Secondary PSF] set to [Off (Primary Only)]
Parameter [Primary PSF] set to [Moffat Beta=4.765 (Trujillo)]
Parameter [Tracking Propagation] set to [During Regularization (Quality)]
Parameter [Primary Radius] set to [1.5 pixels]
Parameter [Iterations] set to [11]
Parameter [Regularization] set to [1.00 (optimal noise and detail)]
Parameter [Mask Fuzz] set to [8.0 pixels]
Parameter [Enhanced Deringing] set to [50 %]
Parameter [Bright Response] set to [Full]
--- Life
Parameter [Detail Preservation] set to [Linear Brightness Mask]
Parameter [Compositing Algorithm] set to [Multiply, Gamma Correct]
Parameter [Inherit Brightness, Color] set to [Brightness]
Parameter [Output Glow Only] set to [No]
Parameter [Airy Disk Sampling] set to [128 x 128 pixels]
Parameter [Airy Disk Radius] set to [8 pixels]
Parameter [Glow Threshold] set to [0 %]
Parameter [Detail Preservation Radius] set to [20.0 pixels]
Parameter [Saturation] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Strength] set to [75 %]
Parameter [Mask Fuzz] set to [1.0 pixels]
Mask used (BASE64 PNG encoded)

--- Color
Parameter [Bias Slider Mode] set to [Sliders Reduce Color Bias]
Parameter [Style] set to [Scientific (Color Constancy)]
Parameter [LRGB Method Emulation] set to [RGB Ratio, CIELab Luminance Retention]
Parameter [Matrix] set to [SHO 40SII+60Ha,70Ha+30OIII,100OIII]
Parameter [Dark Saturation] set to [2.30]
Parameter [Bright Saturation] set to [5.00]
Parameter [Saturation Amount] set to [325 %]
Parameter [Blue Bias Reduce] set to [2.72]
Parameter [Green Bias Reduce] set to [3.57]
Parameter [Red Bias Reduce] set to [1.63]
Parameter [Mask Fuzz] set to [1.0 pixels]
Parameter [Cap Green] set to [0 %]
Parameter [Highlight Repair] set to [8 pixels]
--- Entropy-driven Detail Enhancement
Parameter [Resolution] set to [Medium]
Parameter [Channel Selection] set to [Green (SHO Ha)]
Parameter [Strength] set to [100 %]
Parameter [Midtone Pull Filter] set to [20.0 pixels]
Parameter [Midtone Pull Strength] set to [50 %]
Parameter [Dark/Light Enhance] set to [0% / 100%]
Undo
Image size is 1375 x 1100
--- Color
Parameter [Bias Slider Mode] set to [Sliders Reduce Color Bias]
Parameter [Style] set to [Scientific (Color Constancy)]
Parameter [LRGB Method Emulation] set to [Straight CIELab Luminance Retention]
Parameter [Matrix] set to [SHO 40SII+60Ha,70Ha+30OIII,100OIII]
Parameter [Dark Saturation] set to [Full]
Parameter [Bright Saturation] set to [1.30]
Parameter [Saturation Amount] set to [300 %]
Parameter [Blue Bias Reduce] set to [1.62]
Parameter [Green Bias Reduce] set to [1.16]
Parameter [Red Bias Reduce] set to [1.32]
Parameter [Mask Fuzz] set to [1.0 pixels]
Parameter [Cap Green] set to [0 %]
Parameter [Highlight Repair] set to [Off]
File saved [C:\Users\rober\OneDrive\Desktop\Crescent ST IKI.tiff].

Is anything be using this combo for not just DSO observing / imaging?

I was wondering about using it during the day for some solar viewing or imaging, but not sure on exactly how to proceed with initial set up as I can't polar align during the day obviously. Lol

Also has anyone used the combo for lunar and planetary imaging? If so how? 

Thanks

Had a go at re processing, i think this looks better with less stars, thanks @MarkAR

I was trying to take advantage of the run of clear nights we have had in the UK recently. So last night thought i would have a crack at this with my new set up (ASIAir, AZGti, 72mm Semi apo, 178MC)

I only managed to capture around 20 subs at 180s when i started having issues, which, on closer inspection today, i am pretty sure is down to my power bank (car battery) being flat, Doh!, 

I may try and capture more data another evening and add it to this and see where i end up, was good to get something tho, especially for a target i have not "seen" before.

My first one had to go back. The second one seems much better. I have used it with my 127 Mak and 72mm Refractor. 

Currently using it in EQ mode coupled with my AsiAir Pro and so far I'm very happy. I'm not sure just how good my guiding is as the graph does seem to swing a bit. However with 3 Min exposures it doesn't seem too bad. Although I did have to bin a few subs. 

Very portable and easy to set up. Apart from needing a lighter "power bank". Lol

Thank you so much. @vlaiv 🙂

I think I measured it at 140-150mm and that's what I entered into the guidescope setting in my AsiAir. 

Am I likely to improve my guiding by entering the calculated figure you quoted??

Thanks again

I have one of these :-

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/rvo-32mm-f4-mini-guide-scope.html

Which I used with a ZWO 120 mini camera. 

The scopes length is adjustable to achieve focus, which I have done. 

If I then measure from the front of the scope, to the sensor of the camera, this is the focal length I need to use for guiding?? Is this correct? Or am I wrong?

Just wanted to check I am all set up correctly in my AsiAir

Thanks. 

Had another go with my new set up. ASIAir Pro, AZgti, 72mm Altair semi apo scope, ZWO 178MC cam.

Again, set up was a breeze, polar alignment less than 10 mins. Goto and a platesolve put the target central.

This is the result of 36 lights of 180s at 270 gain, 20 darks and some flats.

Processed in Startools, Paint.net and windows photo editor.

Thanks for looking

1 hour ago, Andrei Botnari said:

Here is my second attempt to shoot my first DSO. Andromeda with Nikon d850 + 70-200mm f2.8 and Star Adventurer Pro. 52 stacked images 

Very nice. Any more details on the subs? Iso, exposure time etc??

24 minutes ago, sputniksteve said:

Do you any of you good people have an opinion of the Celestron X-CEL LX pieces?

I have the 9mm. Which has been pretty good in every scope I have used it in. Including the 127 Mak imho. Good eyepieces. 

Thanks for the comments guys. 

I would be interested in knowing what settings people are using for guiding with the ASIAir and AZGti  in terms of dithering? If anyone can help?

I left the settings pretty much as default and told it to dither every 5th exposure. No idea whatsoever if this is right or wrong tbh. Lol. 

What's an ideal "settle" time after dithering??

How often to dither is good practice? 

What with losing my job, and finding another coupled with the lighter nights i haven't had the enthusiasm to use the ASIAir i bought months ago.......until last night.

Took me about 15 minute to polar align and once i had the "smiley face" that was enough for me.

Platesolving and guiding seemed to work ok, although i did notice some wild swings during guiding and lost a couple of subs, perhaps this is just down the the inaccuracies of the AZGti im honestly not sure.

Picked an easy target of M81 and set the whole thing going to capture 60 odd 120s exposures. I also captured some darks and flats (i am still not sure im doing these correctly tbh lol)

Went back inside and occasionally monitored the subs from my amazon fire tablet.

After my attempts at processing using Startools and Paint.net, this is the final image:-

Overall i am fairly satisfied with this for a first attempt. 

Not delivered by the postie. But collected from a fellow SGL member. 

Celestron Astromaster 90. For use with my Herschel Wedge. 

Has anyone with the 90mm celestron or Skywatcher Evostar done any whit light imaging? Would love to see some examples