Bobby1970
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Posts posted by Bobby1970
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Just watching now, got high hopes for it.
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With the astrophotography mode, the phone must be on a tripod. Not like the night sight where the phone can be hand held.
I am due an upgrade soon also. Had the 2 for a couple of years and it's been excellent.
Going to see what the 4a is like.
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Not had a go at this target before so thought I would have a stab at it.
Sony A57, 75-300mm lens @ 250mm f5.6. ISO1600
160x 60s Subs, Darks and Flats. DSS and Startools for processing (such as it is with my limited understanding lol)
Thanks for looking 🙂
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ZWO ASI 178MC
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Could it be that you have a lack of "in focus" travel on the 130 reflector?
I'm sure someone will be able to confirm this.
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Modelled and printed myself an adaptor for my recently purchased iPolar.
Just need a plastic thumbscrew now as I only have a metal one so have some tape around the body of the iPolar at the moment to protect it.
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Well. I took the plunge and bought the ZWO 178MC.
Been watching lots of videos on YouTube. Looks like it will be a good purchase.
I think I will also end up using it with just a lens. I have a few old M42 fit lenses.
Thanks again for the info guys. 🙂
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NOTE to the OP
If you are concerned about the image grabber not working, the one I shared the link to from Amazon works fine with mine. 🙂
HTH
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I would suggest having a read of:-
https://sites.google.com/site/cloudybluesphere/astronomy/gallery/camera-settings
It says its for a Samsung SCB435 but the settings will still be the same or very similar.
HTH
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I managed to grab these of Mars and Saturn way back in 2012 when I just got into the hobby.
Only used a 90mm Mak on an AltAz goto mount.
I was well chuffed at the time.
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1 minute ago, vlaiv said:
You are rather limited in your budget and requirements that you listed (planetary, lunar, solar, EEVA) although at first look similar, have some differences that make choosing camera very hard task to do.
I will start by listing things requirements for all types of imaging and then we can see how any particular camera model suits that.
- all of these require camera that has low read noise and high quantum efficiency, so that is common thing
- planetary, lunar, solar require fast download rates (meaning USB3.0 camera, ROI capability for planets, high FPS in any case)
- for planetary it is easier to work with color sensor (limited budget, no need for filters, filter wheel, and recording with change of filters is a bit difficult).
- for lunar and solar due to lack of color - mono sensor is better option. For H-alpha solar it is much better option (although color sensor can still be used - it will be only 1/4 effective since only 1/4 of pixels register that wavelength - red pixels).
- for planets you are fine with very small sensor - something like 1/3" sensor
- for lunar and solar, you want larger sensor, but not too large. Well, that depends on what sort of telescope you have. It needs to have diffraction limited field large enough to cover sensor. This is not a problem for smaller sensors, but could be problematic on a larger sensor like 1" sensor. If you attempt to shoot full disk images or mosaics - you don't want your images/panels to be soft at the edges because scope is no longer diffraction limited there.
- For EEVA mono is better than color in terms of getting image on screen quicker - more sensitive, but color provides you with color of object - something that is interesting with stars / clusters and nebulae (planetary in particular).
- For EEVA you want your sensor to be as large as possible or you need a scope that can be reduced well (by reduced - I mean focal length reduction).
- cooled camera will only be beneficial for EEVA (although many people work with non cooled cameras, having set point cooling, even if you don't use sub zero temperatures - enables precise calibration, which is beneficial).
Now we can begin comparing sensors
If I go by your signature and conclude that you have Skymax127 and AA 72ED-R, and want to do everything equally well - I would say go for 178 - color model.
For that camera and Skymax127 you will need x2 barlow to get to critical sampling rate (for color camera). Since it is Mak, I doubt you will be doing Solar Ha, so color model is fine - for lunar and planetary it is fine as well.
For 72ED-R and EEVA, you will benefit from focal reducer, although you don't need field flattener. Something like x0.79 FF/FR will make that scope into F/4.8, but even better would be GSO x2 simple reducer (1.25" version, you don't need full 2") - mounted to give you something like x0.66 reduction to make your system F/4. You could try to use it at full x0.5 and F/3 but I believe your edge of field will suffer greatly - that small scope has quite a bit of curvature due to short FL.
In any case, for EEVA with said x0.66 reduction you will have 1.77"/px system (very good for AzGti mounted scope for EEVA) and following FOV:
That is ~ 1.5 x 1 degree field - quite good.
In any case - you have "tools" to decide now, but if you have any more questions - just shoot.
Thanks for the excellent information. I had a feeling that the 178 colour may be best suited to my needs. It's good to see that confirmed by an expert 🙂
i realise it will be a jack of all trades and probably master of none. 😞
But my gut feel was that it could suit my needs.
i do like the sound of mono in terms of the higher sensitivity. But I really do not want to be messing around with filters etc to get a colour image.
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1 minute ago, PeterCPC said:
The 224 would be good for planetary, lunar and solar. For DSOs you really need a bigger sensor but I have seen some DSO taken with the 224 on here. Alternatively, use the Canon 450d for DSOs.
Peter
I have used the 450 for some DSO EEVA. Other people have suggested to me previously that this is a good way to go.
But, in some ways the dedicated CCD type camera seems like an easier way to go, especially with live stacking of images.
Maybe my thinking is wrong, but the cameras I have mentioned all seem as though they would be more "sensitive" to me. That's my take on it, based on some of the EEVA and DSO images I have seen taken.
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18 minutes ago, PeterCPC said:
If you are going for planetary then I would go for the 224. I find it very good at planetary. You will also need an IR cut filter with it.
Peter
Thanks Peter.
Ideally I would like something thats great for planetary, lunar and solar. But also capable of dabbling with some DSO/EEVA, the 178 would seem better suited to the latter due to its larger sensor?? Or am I thinking wrongly here?
Maybe a 224 and a camera lens? This would give me a wider FOV right??
Maybe I am looking for something that doesn't exist within my price range though. Lol
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Anyone??
Currently thinking of the ZWO 178 colour.
Bigger sensor than the 224 but how does it compare sensitivity wise??
Seen these with Cooling mods fitted also.
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I found the best results with the few times I have used mine was using Sharpcap live stacking feature.
You sort of gradually see the image improving as tie software takes, for example a 5 or 10 second exposure and stacks it. Once you have a few minutes worth more and more detail becomes apparent.
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9 minutes ago, Kirby301 said:
This is the camera
I shall order the frame grabber, BBC cable and DC plug.
That should be enough to see if it works shouldn't it?
I've already ordered a cmount nose which comes with a free 0.5 reducer.
When I bought mine (I got two for a tenner 🙂 ) the first thing I did was stick 12v across the terminals to make sure there was some sort of life in them. The led on the back lit up so it looked like a promising start Lol
You will definitely need the BNC to RCA cable. You could in theory plug this into a monitor/TV I believe, just for viewing only.
If you want to capture an image, you will need the video grabber.
I also took mine apart and removed the built in filter in front of the sensor. Supposed to improve things.
I stand ready to be corrected if any of this is wrong. But it's what I did.
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I am pretty certain the OP will need the following:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073ZKHSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_shIhEb7JBFA83
And
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I7XV5IS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_ziIhEb7H9W1TE
The connector on the rear is
A BNC I believe.
These are the two items I got for use with my SBC2000
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I may be wrong, and apologies to all of I have missed it.
But, won't a usb capture device be needed? To view and/or capture an image on the laptop??
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2 hours ago, Kirby301 said:
Ok I wont try that.
I've just read the pdf manual for the scb2000 and found the plug I think I need. Does this seem right? I will still have to chop the end and fit crimp connectors.
Do you already have the mains plug and transformer I have shown in my photo?
If so, I don't see the point in buying the thing you have shown.
Do you have a battery? A small leisure battery (12v) with some wire, crimp terminals etc may be a better option?
If using mains outside, you do need to be careful. Especially when it's damp as it seems to be permanently at the moment. Whatever socket or extension lead you would plug into should be RCD protected, I would also perhaps suggest some sort of weather proof enclosure for it.
It may end up cheaper and safer to get a battery and charger. ?
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11 minutes ago, Kirby301 said:
Ah, I hate electronics! Can I use a regular phone charger plug, was thinking of cutting the adaptor off and adding the terminals? I have loads knocking around!
I doubt it. The output voltage and current from the phone charger will most likely not be correct.
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The rest of the wiring is the mains transformer to step the voltage down to 12v.
I have used them outside but have an extension lead inside a box to keep the damp off and my sockets are all RCD protected. But you could run them straight off a 12v battery with a suitable bit of wiring.
I used a couple of ring terminals but you could use the open "fork" type ones I guess.
Hope this helps.
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I got some crimp terminals and crimped them onto the wires, then screwed them on.
Will try and get a photo of mine and stick it up here. If it helps?
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For a bit of fun last night. Just as the moon was rising. I decided to stick my phone on my star adventurer after pointing the mount north.
I grabbed around 10 exposures using the hacked camera app which includes the "astrophotography" mode.
I also covered the lens and took some darks. And pointed the camera at a white laptop screen in some type of attempt to get some flats. Lol
Anyway it was all good fun for 30 minutes total outside.
I managed to stack the images but the final image still showed s lot of vignetting. So maybe the darks and flats didn't work.
So, I cropped the hell out of the final image and after a bit of "processing" as best I could in Startools and Paint.Net, this is what I ended up with. Lol.
Now, I know it's pretty pants. BUT, I'm staggered at what a smartphone can capture tbh.
Has anyone else tried anything similar??
Thanks for looking and indulging me. Lol
For reference here's one of the exposures, as I say, I cropped the hell out of it. Lol
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Having sold some gear recently and some Dosh from birthday and Xmas knocking around, I have decided to get a replacement for my Altair GP Cam
It's replacement will be mainly used for lunar, planetary, and solar imaging.
However, I also want to have more of a go at EEVA and imaging of some DSO's.
My budget is £250, maybe £300 absolute maximum.
There's a bewildering array of sensors, and I want to get the best I can for my budget. I do appreciate that I won't be able to get a "cooled" solution for my budget.
So, my original choice was going to be the ZWO 224, then I noticed the 178, which has a larger sensor I believe??
On top of this I note that Altair Astro have cameras equipped with these sensors and seem a little cheaper?
So, what would you guys recommend??
All advice greatly appreciated.
movie of my (some of) my best images from 2019
in Imaging - Lunar
Posted
That's awesome. Love the saturated shot at the end.