Jammy

Looks good, I like how you've designed the top section to click into place.

Looks good Steve, most impressed!!

Steve

I've uploaded some photos and a pdf showing the dimensions.  I'm not sure if you can upload a pdf, if not I'll convert it to jpeg.

Ignore the USB extender, I've ordered a mini double one which won't get in the way.

In the 5th photo there is a silver screw on the mounting bracket under the ASIair.  There's about 5mm clearance between the screw and the ASIair.

Let me know if there's anything you don't understand.

Thanks again

ASIair and TP-Link.pdf

Thanks Steve that's great.

The TP link arrived over the weekend and I had it all setup and running last night to test it out.  It works!!

I'll post you photos and dims this evening.  I've measured them with a micrometre.  If the dims are wrong, it's entirely my fault!

@teoria_del_big_bang thank you for the design drawings, they look fantastic!  Any idea how much this would cost to put together?

I've taken the measurements and some photos for you.  If you're still ok with looking at this I can send them to you.

Thanks for your help with this.

Yes it's that TP Link, I'll measure it out the box when it gets here (due for delivery today or tomorrow).

I think the dims of the ASIair are on the ZWO website, but I can give you these if you not.  I'll be interested to see what you come up with.

1 hour ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

If it is an odd adapter or item like the Thingiverse one then you can PM me and if I am able I will print for you. I can even design and make the necessary files myself.

I must admit I am not too keen on the design in the Thingiverse link looks a bit awkward to put together.
Is that exactly what you want to do mount that exact TP link on top of the Asair Pro?

Steve

Thanks for the reply Steve.  Thank you for your kind offer.

Yes, I was thinking about  sitting the ASIair Pro and the TP Link together.  I've ordered the TP Link and it's not even arrived yet, I'm probably jumping the gun.  I should probably just check that it all works together first!

Some people Velcro them together, but I've read that this can cause heat problems.  I'm not sure that will be an issue being in the UK.  I think I'll just rubber band them together and make sure it all works for now.

Any recommendations for 3D printing would still be appreciated.

We all need adapters and such like.  Thanks

46 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

The comments arent good in that link.  It doesnt line up properly when printed.

Thanks for that!  I didn't read the comments.  Back to square one!

This is the item that I would like printing.  Thanks for the offer Jurger, I don't mind paying a fee for for this.  It is his work after all.

Link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4615431?fbclid=IwAR2gJmcqo8FjY0tTsu1Xfn2NXn3k56UOQIiARIuXcc_vF0KhvQCV2fRjsI0

Hi all

I've seen a 3D print design online that would be a handy addition to my astro kit.  Can anyone recommend a company in the UK which would be able to print a small 'one off' item?

Thanks

Jamie

To be fair,  you've done a pretty good job from not the best data.   I'm going to try HSO if we ever get a clear sky!

Thank you for the comments.  I've not tried imaging DSO's  with the C9.25 since I posted this.  I do now realise the collimation was off.  I've used it for planetary over the summer, with a Barlow and high power eyepiece I've managed to dial in the collimation pretty well.  I've taken some fantastic images of Mars and the Moon.

The weathers been clouds clouds clouds, but I'm tempted to give it another go at something like M1 which is probably too small for the 80ED.   We just need a decent spell of cloud free weather to try it out!

As lots of people have said, use a widefield eyepiece to get the correct location.  I leave the eyepiece defocussed and the scope on the camera focus (or as near as possible).  It doesn't matter that the eyepiece is defocussed as you're only doing a search of the sky.  Another thing I've tried is finding a star close to the planet that I can focus the camera on with Bahtinov before slewing the scope to Mars.  IF you're reasonably polar aligned you won't be far off slewing a short distance.  That way I know the camera is in focus too.

Thank you.  I've just tried and got a better result.

It's not as sharp, but I'll give wavelets another go on the result.

Thanks for your help

Hi all 

I've just tried derotating my Mars images from the 14th Sep.

I took 16 x 2 min exposures, which I've aligned and derotated in WinJupos after stacking.

Does anybody know why I'm getting the white outline?  Have I missed a setting in the software?

I've tried with another data set previously and had the same results for Jupiter.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

I'd greatly appreciate some help.

Thanks

Jamie

Thank you.  This looks a good solution.

I'm thinking about mounting an ASIair Pro to the counterweight bar of my Star Adventurer.

It will help balance up the Star Adventurer when using it with small scope, and also allow me to control the camera conveniently.

Anybody done this or anything similar?  Wondering if there are any such fixings that clamp to the counterweight bar?

The ASIair has both a 1/4" tapped hole (same as a dslr) and a finderscope type shoe.  The counterweight rod is 12mm diameter.

Thanks

11 minutes ago, Martthebass said:

Have a word with Adam or Ian at RVO, they’ll be able to assist I’m sure. Quite local to you (assuming you’re Scunny or thereabouts).

Thank you.  I've been to and bought astro equipment from RVO, but wasn't sure if they would help with this sort of thing.  I'll give them a try.

I'm a little further than Scunny, but still my nearest astro specialists.

I know this is a really old thread, but when you say collimated, but mis-aligned; does my photo show what you are thinking?

I'm starting to think my secondary mirror is off centre.

Good question!  I thought it was reflections of the focus star, but I've been told by someone in another forum that it is called a Poisson spot.  All to do with light waves.

I've looked it up and there does seem to be something in this.  I did an internet search and ended up on Cloudy Nights where there were a few threads about how the spot should be central, and if it isn't your scope is out of alignment.

Honestly, I don't know what to believe.  All I know is that my scope is showing good shape stars in some areas, and not others.  They're not terrible, but noticeable when imaging.  I was wondering if anyone else here had ever seen this, and if it was a problem, then how to correct it.

Does anyone know a good scope doctor?

Do you think there is something out of alignment?

I was thinking about taking it to a specialist, but not sure where to find one in this part of the country.

I've been attempting to image galaxies with my C9.25 rather than my 80ED to increase image scale, but my stars look like they're trailing slightly and I'm wondering if this is down to an off centre secondary mirror.  I did accidentally rotate the secondary mirror over a year ago, but I've not used the scope until recently.

I've attached an image of a de-focused star that I've used for collimation (near the zenith).  In this image should the spot within the collimation rings be central rather than over to one side?

Is this the result of an off-centred secondary mirror?

I've taken 10 second shots of star fields and they still show slight comma , but don't see how this can be down to tracking error in such a short period of time.

Has anyone seen this before?  Thanks for any help you can offer.

I've never had any success with my C9.25 when trying to get DSO's.  I've seen images other people have taken and they have good round stars. I can never get these.

I've tried collimating the best that I possibly can, and adding the Celestron f/6.3 focal reducer but I still can't get round stars.  I could understand it if the stars at the edges had comma, but the stars near the centre are showing comma too.

I've changed my back focus both in and out to no real difference, I'm just wondering what I'm doing wrong?

I took the two attached images last night.  One shows my out of focus star from the camera, and the other image shows an integration of 120 x30 sec subs of M63 Sunflower Galaxy.  The camera is an ASI 1600mm Pro.  These are both full frame, not cropped.

When I've plate solved the individual frames for M63 they give a focal length of 1483mm.  1480mm would be f6.3 on this scope, which the focal reducer is supposed to give indicating my back focus spacing is about correct.

One thing I have noticed is that on the focus star the rings are concentric and clean, but the small reflections inside the smaller ring are not central.  Is this normal for an SCT?  I'd have thought the central reflections would be centred too.

I've wondered if the star comma was down to guiding errors, but would a 30 sec sub-frame show this much error?  Incidentally, my guiding last night was the best I've ever had and I don't think it was down the guiding.  When I use my refractor (although shorter focal length) the stars are perfectly round with this mount - NEQ6.

A few years ago I removed the secondary mirror to remove a large dark mark from it which was obscuring my views (it was a fleck of black paint from the inside of the tube).  When I removed the secondary, I accidentally rotated it when unscrewing.  Would this make a difference?  I know that the corrector plate shouldn't be rotated, and wondered is it was the same with the secondary?  I've searched online but can't find an answer to that.

I love this scope, but hardly use it nowadays because of the image quality.

Hope someone can offer some helpful advise.

Thanks

Thanks Olly

I've used the APT flats aid to get to the average ADU exposure times.  The flats panel has worked pretty consistently so far.

I think you're right about the gain having to be the same.  Astro Pixel Processor has thrown a wobbly in the past when I've used  a different gain value flat to dark flat.

Do you keep your old dark frames, or just the masters?