Pat Curran

Been looking through your thread Paul and like the results your getting with the ASI178MC. There are indeed times I would have liked my images in colour but I want to stick with the mono version for now. What Bortal value is your camera operating in BTW? I am still not sure why so many of my start and end frames are not exposing correctly. Carl on the AllSkEye Forum is currently attempting to get a resolution for me - thank you Carl! Here are three of the FITS files from last night - the first and last frame plus one from the middle of the run (12.3MBs each on my ADrive Cloud): 10:24pm (GMT+1) 01:12am (GMT+1) 04:34am (GMT+1) If anyone can shed any light on what might be causing the incorrectly exposed frames at start and end of run, I would be very grateful. Thanks, Pat

Can you post one of your stills here?...I'd like to see the difference in the two cameras. Thanks, Pat

There must be a bottleneck in the data flowing into the storage device. The 290 can output 5Gb bandwidth through USB 3.0, which is more than adequate for sending 45sec exposures through to storage without pause. Pat

What camera are you using? Pat

The 178MM also captured this single frame 25 minutes earlier on Wednesday morning...no doubt it would have been even more impressive without the 'light' cloud cover! The sky glow to my SSW is the city of Waterford 15 miles away.

Just been going through the last few nights captures...and as an example as to why I don't want any interval between exposures, here are two images captured consecutively on Wednesday morning showing part of the same flare on both. It's most likely a flaring satellite, but it could also be a meteor which decided to flare just as one image was ending and the next exposing...

Under Settings > Aquisition Settings - Main > Pause / Interval [ms] = 0 So no interval between exposures. As far as I can tell, there are no lost frames via the 20ft underground USB 2.0 cable. Pat

Hi happy-kat, The 178MM is set to auto exposure with a max exposure limit of 45 seconds set. No minimum exposure time has been set so the software allows the camera operate at it fastest 0.032sec. if needed. I have Gain set to 0. Beyond that I followed the default settings in the AllSkEye software as shown above. BTW, that's the moon setting in the WSW in my first post above, so glad the 178MM was able to capture that meteor. Regards, Pat

Might be a bit off topic, but I thought I'd show you my latest 'Alien' captured by the All Sky Camera...looks to be either an owl or a buzzard...he or she didn't stay for the full 40sec exposure! 🙂 Regards, Pat

The AGPTEK LED Tracing Light Pad arrived today. Purchased it on foot of the good review it received here on CN. The A4 version fits the Comet Hunter nicely. Now just need a clear night to take my first flats!...

Thanks David, Appreciate the confirmation on the settings. I had a guiding graph all over the place on Saturday night but was guiding with quite a bit of wind. The stars in the guide camera view in PHD2 were elongated, which I assume is movement in the mount caused by wind. I'll post the logs tonight. Pat

Hi All, I am having trouble with PHD2 guiding, but before I upload logs can I ask if the settings for my rig are correct per attached screenshots from the 'Brain' (Advanced Settings) I have a Comet Hunter Mak-Newt (731mm FL) on a CEM70G mount guided by an ASI220MM Guide Camera (4um pixel size) via OAG. The rig is controlled through N.I.N.A. Anyone see anything which might be causing PHD2 to not guide correctly? Thanks, Pat

Tried posting this query on the AllSkEye Forum but Michael seems to be away at present. I have a large proportion of blank frames (completely, or almost completely dark) each night at start and end periods. The latest generated night video has 22 seconds worth of them out of a total time of 1 Min 24 seconds, so about 25% total are not showing anything. I have the following settings set: Nighttime Acquisition Start Adjustment = 30 Nighttime Acquisition End Adjustment = -30 GAIN Transition Sunrise/Sunset Offset = -30 GAIN Transition Time Period = 30 Please see attached screenshot of the additional settings in the Exposure Mode section. Also attached is a screenshot from the Images Conversion Output folder from the start of a night's capture back in May. If there are any users of this great software reading, or indeed any All Sky imagers, can I ask you to take a look at these attachments please? Have I settings incorrectly set such that one is fighting the other perhaps, or is there some other reason why I am not getting correctly exposed images just after sunset and before sunrise? Thanks, Pat

Yes M40, Something like that might work, but I'm going to work on the idea of rolling it to the North to open first. Just need a raised frame with angle iron runners to allow it to roll on to when open...Will keep the 'extension' separate from existing frame too in order to avoid having the box causing vibration in the wind when parked in the open position. Pat

Thanks Elp, It wouldn't be that easy to rework the inch box iron frame at this stage to facilitate panels, but I like your idea of just sliding it open to the North. I'd need to weld up a set of rails and fix runner bearings to the bottom of the box. Might be the easier and cheaper option of all...certainly cheaper than actuators. Regards, Pat

About one foot six in a 2x4ft hole. Filled that with concrete, let it set for a few months and then added the six inch deep floor 12x12ft square on top. Hope to build a proper observatory on that base when funds allow.

I get it now...I was a bit slow off the mark there TiffsAndAstro! 🤣🤣🤣 Pat

Yes, that might be work better Elp...confirmed; the steel floor is level. I'm not sure I have room for actuators (they would have to be inside the box in any event - I wonder would you get gas spring units instead to handle the load? Not sure of the exact weight, but I do recall having to use a wheel barrow to carry it out from the workshop! Pat

Thanks for the feedback on collimation Wim; will certainly do as you suggest when I see the stars again. Elp and TiffsandAstro, I've posted a few pics of the box shelter over on the Equipment > DIY Observatories section here. I used white paint on the outside to keep as much heat as possible reflected off. Combined with the Telegizmos bag, summer heat doesn't seem to be a problem, but then we haven't had summer heat for a while in Ireland. 🤐 Regards, Pat

Hi All, This is kind of a 'half way house' while I gather funds for a proper observatory. The CEM70G is pier mounted on a section of telephone pole which also carries the steel box cover. The sequence of opening is numbered 1-4 in the attached images, with a second view of the fully opened setup numbered 5. While not in use, the CEM70G is shrouded in a large Telegizmos bag to protect against the Irish weather and the box sides and top are double lined with anti-condensation wrapping to prevent dripping. So far it's stood up to gales and heavy rain with no sign of moisture getting at the mount. I have two issues after a year of use: 1) I left the rear slot too narrow - its just clears the saddle provided the mount is always parked at the zero position - too close for any error in this regard. 2) The weight of the box when opening and closing is just about tolerable, but not easy by any means - I'm pondering how I might add a couple of actuators to overcome this problem. I would be very interested in feedback and suggested improvements for a MK2!!! Thanks, Pat

Hi Elp, I welded a angle iron rectangular frame which acts as a floor with flat sheeting to keep out rodents. That frame is the floor of the box when closed and is attached to the wooden telephone pole pier. I'll post some pics when I get home. Pat

Thanks Elp, I'm Mono only for now until proficient at handling the gear and processing. Flats and luminence filter are my next two steps. Pat

OK, The 20 mil spacer is removed and I now have little or no protrusion. I didn't want to go too bare as I am not sure if the focuser quality is good enough to avoid flexing if it's racked out too far. Now for a clear night to test...

That's good to know 900SL, I'll re-work the focuser today...the spacer above the OAG in above image seems to be close to the protrusion length, so hopefully it's removal will allow the racking out of the focuser barrel so it's outside the light cone. Like collimation, I'll leave the mirror clips until I have the easier issues sorted first. Also one less issue if back spacing is not a factor. Many thanks for this feedback, Pat

...while at the same time the CEM70G remains on the telephone pole pier under cover from the Irish weather! (hopefully remaining Polar Aligned!)