Albir phil

3 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

 

cheers both, its just i see quite of lot of m13 images taken and i struggle to see the appeal unless it was some sort of standardised test type thing.

I consider it more of a test in processing, ie trying to resolve stars and colour without burning the core out as with all globular clusters.

2 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

Is m13 regarded as something of a gear test target in the community?

I read something about the more stars can be resolved the better the set up?

Good set up yes , but in the end it's down to post processing 

19 minutes ago, Atomic_ said:

I'm thinking the math/formular I found was wrong then, from what you said I'm guessing it was meant to use Diameter instead of focal length for the calculations, which gives more reasonable answers being; 29x, 290x, and 406x for the minimum, optimum and maximum magnifications.

I'll have to have a look at some 5 or 7mm eyepieces for planetary details.

thanks

Best thing to do is not to get too involved with things, just try what you have see what you see, and when you're more used to the scope look into things more.

Ok if you take the mm of the eyepiece and devid it into your scope f/l that will give you it's magnification.So the smaller the eyepiece mm the higher it magnifying power.for planets and moon high power is needed however air condition will dictate how high you can go.

1 hour ago, dweller25 said:

Sadly not, the one remaining is glued on and will not come off without damage 😕

Try alcohol it might loosen it without damaging 

Hi if you do take the lens apart make sure you mark the side of the lens so you get back in the right position. 

Just now, TiffsAndAstro said:

im actually borderline smug atm. 

Nowt wrong with that👍

6 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

stock canon 600d and my "non premium " crap gear is in my signature. I think this is the first 'proper' image ive managed and less than two hours

it does have a bit of an impressionist painting look to it, which i rather like, but im not sure if that's 'good' or not

i think i can improve it a bit more, i haven't bothered putting it through basic stuff in gimp yet

its ngc7000 and some of the pelican nebula. couldn't get them both in same frame without rotating my ota in its rights which im trying to avoid.

Like I always say if you are happy with your image that's all that matters, after all other people will have different opinions on any image, take in what they say but if you like it that's ok🤗🤗

That a good image considering you are trying out your rig and only two hrs.I always struggle with m81, but I'd say you're on the right track.👍👍

Very nice I like the mustered colour,just like Colman's, I like that to.Great image👏👏

Hi I have the same scope, I do however use the W O adjustable flattener/reducer, and never had any problem.So I agree best to use the dedicated F/R for the scope 

On 27/02/2016 at 00:34, StamosP said:

How can i be sure that they are not twisted, even slightly? Is there a method?

As i can see by eye they are not...

On 26/02/2016 at 19:22, StamosP said:

Hello again,

i've noticed that around bright stars the diffraction spikes appear to split in two (for example my m45 pic, page 31).

How can i fix that?

I've tried to align the spider vanes perfectly and i think i've done it but the problem remains...

I have the 150 quattro I upgrade it with a new spider and primary mirror  mask this is a much stronger one and the mask removes the reflection from the main mirror clips.i got mine from Backyard Univers,it cost me 220€ inc postage.

1 hour ago, saac said:

Too be honest I wouldn't go and overthink this. Just start imaging and you will find the limitations of your particular location. I think you will be surprised just exactly how well you can image from even the most light polluted areas now. You only need to do a casual trawl through the site to find the most excellent deep sky images from people who image around the environs of London.  Don't let measuring you sky quality delay your imaging. 

Jim 

Yeah I've given up worrying about sky condition,jet stream, light pollution,etc, etc. After all we have what we have and just have do the best we can.As they say on the T shirt, JUST Do IT. 🤗

3 hours ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi, any idea what the jack socket on the side is for ?

Yeah that's for the power source have you not got the adapter.

This looks like a red dot finder, red dot projects onto the screen at the side the you point the scope at the object,there a a few different types on the market.

54 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi, I am looking for info on what appears to be a view finder the same as the one in the picture. I have one of these, it came with a Meade etx 125. It looks like a sort of lens on the side of it, mine does not have the "Lens" so just wondering where can I get one from ? Also there is a jack plug socket on the side of it what is it's purpose ? Thank you. 

I'm sure this is a

55 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi, I am looking for info on what appears to be a view finder the same as the one in the picture. I have one of these, it came with a Meade etx 125. It looks like a sort of lens on the side of it, mine does not have the "Lens" so just wondering where can I get one from ? Also there is a jack plug socket on the side of it what is it's purpose ? Thank you. 

2 hours ago, Bucko1975 said:

Seems really small area to look through but will give it ago!

As Peter mentioned it will probably have another lens ,you should be able to see some glass in the small hole.I had one with the first reflector I built years ago   im sure it's the old RAS thread 

Hi the two refractors I have are W O 81 gt and WO 103 and they are both excellent, the 81 GT is not cheap but is great imaging wide f o v objects like M31 and Orion neb etc, plus with the reducer flattener even wider F O V 🤗

2 hours ago, Peter Drew said:

As mentioned by others, the pressure pads under the locking screws would be my first port of call as they are likely to be stuck.  The bearings on the old EQ5 are plain metal and the grease may have hardened over time.  If stripped and cleaned, re-grease with something like Superlube, not lithium grease which is too thin.     🙂  

Thanks Peter I will have a look at it while I have it in bits.By the way it's one I got from you along with a 127 skywhatcher refractor , think we swapped for a 5 inch lens I had.

1 hour ago, bosun21 said:

Do the axis turn when the brass bolts are removed? If not then something has seized. It could be the internal part of the clutch that the brass bolts push upon or it could be the entire axis. Looks like a strip down is going to be required.

One moves ok now in Dec,but Ra doesn't even if brass bolt removed I removed worm and as expected it moves ok put the worm back and no go.Iv had the mount in bits and can't see anything obvious.Anyway thanks for the help I'll sleep on it😵‍💫

I I'm the process of getting a old skywhatcher eq5 into some sort of working order, however both clutches are not releasing even though they turn I removed both brass bolts and replaced them but still no joy, anyone any ideas😕

4 minutes ago, bosun21 said:

No. It comes with a paper template showing the mounting holes. There is a video or two on YouTube showing how to fit them. I fitted mine without a template. Just measured it out.

Great I'll look it up thanks👍

3 hours ago, bosun21 said:

I haven't owned a Quattro but have upgraded the focuser on several Newtonians and the Baader Steeltrack is great upgrade to the stock focusers supplied with the scopes. They are not quite a Feather touch and don't have the price tag either. However they are a solid and well trusted unit which works very well.

Ok thanks for info, did you have to get a mounting adapter plate with the steelltrack

Hi all I am upgrading my 150 quattro,just wondering if anyone as done a upgrade on the focusers of the 150 and what focuser you used without breaking the bank.🤔

I think that's great, rusty or not,Like it👏👏