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MN66User

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  1. Hi all, I have one and am just getting to grips with it. In doing so - and it's probably quite obvious anyway - that the supplied 'polarscope' tube is not great. However, by carefully unhinging the tension spring it is possible to sandwich a thin metal plate around the locking nut in such a way as to mount a proper polarscope. You just need a plastic spacer ring to lock the plate in place around the driveshaft. This looks a bit like the polarscope mounting of another type of tracking mount [you know the one!] - actually I got the idea from that other mount - but if you can get hold of some 1/16" gauge - or similar - steel sheet and some 3mm thick PTFE or polyeythylene sheet [I used a food cutting board] - that is stiff enough to hold the polarscope, this mod or upgrade is a doddle to do. I am surprised Omegon never thought of it in the first place.
  2. I recently purchased an AG TC for use with a C11. But I am finding the instructions in the booklet that came with the device difficult to get my head around. I want to use this set up with a DSLR, but I'm not sure which adaptors or spacers I need. The booklet suggested the short BTA [TS Optics part TSSC-T2L] in combination with Baader vari-lock 46 [Part no. 2956946]] - which I have, with but that does not connect to the T-ring of my camera in such a way that the AG-TC is securely located. Can someone point me in the right direction as I think I need a custom adaptor for the 3.25" C11 SCT thread, to fit the AG-TC inside it. I have the standard Canon to 2" adaptor for use with any scope and I also have a 1mm thick T-ring for my Canon 700d / 60Da, that has a M42 female thread in it. The AG-TC can be sandwiched between the 1mm/M42F thread barrel connector I have but I think that I may not have enough back focus. I just want the right measurement for the length of the custom adaptor [3.25" SCT female to M42 Male] to mount it to the C11. Thanks. Robert
  3. Hi, there are a few options - in the end I went with a two piece short cables from ugreen [on Amazon], Work fine. regards Robert
  4. Hi AndyO, tried Astronomiser but no response yet. Also tried SX themselves who pointed me towards ebay - but only available from USA with a lot of postage to pay [cable costs about $2 postage about $15]. Anyway I have found a two-piece cable that is short enough that I can tie it around the mount on Amazon. Hopefully that will work. regards Robert
  5. Hi Andyo, thanks - I have looked at the Lindy offerings but they don'y do exactly what I am after - I have also tried my local computer shop and they drew a blank too. The cable I am looking for is as follows: length - about 30cm - 1m is too long though I could coil it up end 1 - USB 2.0 mini-type B plug 5 position - camera end end 2 - USB 2.0 type B plug - FW body end I can do this with two cables but I cannot get both cables very short and it introduces another connector that could pull part. I think that they can be got in the US but not here in the UK - and e-bay drew a blank too. Any ideas? regards Robert
  6. Hi, having just received an SX trius 694M with EFW I was wondering if anyone has found a source of a shorter cable that connects the FW body back to the body of the SX camera. The supplied cable is far too long and the mini-USB to USB 2.0 male/female adaptor to mini-USB cable is a bit long and can get tangled. regards Robert
  7. Hi gang, looks like I missed some of the fun. I had to leave by the Wednesday but I saw enoug clear night skies to know that I will/should return sometime. Anyway I did see some wildlife - namely a Golden Eagle on Tuesday and I got a few snaps of dso's. I those immortal words -I'll be back. thanks Robert
  8. Hi Mike, update - the driver does work with windows 10 - but I have found that I needed a powered USB/Serial adaptor for it to work - a simple cable USB/serial won't work. I have connected to the mount and bench tested the connection indoors. I just did a trial manual sync using the IH, connected the laptop using AstroPlanner v2, fired up the AWR-EQ6 ASCOM connection and the program can control the mount. Hope this helps. Robert
  9. Hi Mike, sorry for not replying sooner but I have the ASCOM driver for the AWR microstep drivebox. It is published by a company called Tigra Networks. http://www.tigranetworks.co.uk/ Unfortunately it costs quite a few quid - I think about £75 when I purchased it quite a few years ago. As far as I can remember it works with Windows up to 7 but since I last used it I now run a W10 laptop and I'm hoping that Tigra can sort out a new driver for that - fingers crossed. hope this helps Robert
  10. Hello Mike, OK - thanks - I'll be sorting a booking out soon. regards Robert
  11. Hi. I am new to the GSP but I'm a regular at KSSP and KASP. I was wondering if anyone would be at the GSP from Sunday 30th October?. I have commitments before the 30th October and after the 3rd November but I'd be up for the dates in between to get to the GSP. regards Robert
  12. Hi all, this link will take you to my Flkr photo-stream showing some of the images from my recent trip to Tivoli. Hope to go back there again in 2016. Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/56553919@N04/sets/72157645078039525/# regards Robert
  13. Hi all, If ll my plans work out I'm off to Tivoli Astro Farm in late May this year. I was hoping that there may be others on this forum that have either been - yes I've found some of your posts - or may be planning to be at Tivoli Astro Farm when I am there too - during the last week in May. If so may I say 'Hi' and clear skies too. It would be nice to hear from you before my Namibian astro-adventure begins. thanks Rob
  14. Hi guys, I get the feeling that the current set up is fine and should be left as is. thanks for the responses. Robert
  15. Hi group, I am part way through upgrading my very nice - and quite old [ 20+years?] - Intes 6-inch Mak-Newt. I've replaced the focuser with a modern design with motor focus and now I want to look at improving the way that the main mirror is supported. The main mirror in my scope has a hole in the middle through which a custom metal bolt attaches the mirror to the mirror cell. The bolt has a machined central 'flat' to use when collimating the optics. The mirror cell is essentially just a flat plate. The Mirror is locked into place using a special keyed nut and the custom bolt has a grub screw which needs a special tool to immobilise the bolts as the nut is turned- one false move during this operation and I could wreck the mirror. This plate is connected to the back plate of the optical tube by two sets of bolts. One set physically attaches the mirror cell plate to the tube back plate and are 'pull bolts'. The second set push against the mirror cell plate and the two sets in tandem provide a means of coarse collimation. Having had to re-collimate the optic recently I have found this arrangement somewhat flimsy and in need of modernisation. So, can anyone suggest a way forward? regards Robert
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