Jump to content





  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MN66User

  1. Hi all, I have one and am just getting to grips with it. In doing so - and it's probably quite obvious anyway - that the supplied 'polarscope' tube is not great. However, by carefully unhinging the tension spring it is possible to sandwich a thin metal plate around the locking nut in such a way as to mount a proper polarscope. You just need a plastic spacer ring to lock the plate in place around the driveshaft. This looks a bit like the polarscope mounting of another type of tracking mount [you know the one!] - actually I got the idea from that other mount - but if you can get hold of some 1/16" gauge - or similar - steel sheet and some 3mm thick PTFE or polyeythylene sheet [I used a food cutting board] - that is stiff enough to hold the polarscope, this mod or upgrade is a doddle to do. I am surprised Omegon never thought of it in the first place.
  2. I recently purchased an AG TC for use with a C11. But I am finding the instructions in the booklet that came with the device difficult to get my head around. I want to use this set up with a DSLR, but I'm not sure which adaptors or spacers I need. The booklet suggested the short BTA [TS Optics part TSSC-T2L] in combination with Baader vari-lock 46 [Part no. 2956946]] - which I have, with but that does not connect to the T-ring of my camera in such a way that the AG-TC is securely located. Can someone point me in the right direction as I think I need a custom adaptor for the 3.25" C11 SCT thread, to fit the AG-TC inside it. I have the standard Canon to 2" adaptor for use with any scope and I also have a 1mm thick T-ring for my Canon 700d / 60Da, that has a M42 female thread in it. The AG-TC can be sandwiched between the 1mm/M42F thread barrel connector I have but I think that I may not have enough back focus. I just want the right measurement for the length of the custom adaptor [3.25" SCT female to M42 Male] to mount it to the C11. Thanks. Robert
  3. Hi, there are a few options - in the end I went with a two piece short cables from ugreen [on Amazon], Work fine. regards Robert
  4. Hi AndyO, tried Astronomiser but no response yet. Also tried SX themselves who pointed me towards ebay - but only available from USA with a lot of postage to pay [cable costs about $2 postage about $15]. Anyway I have found a two-piece cable that is short enough that I can tie it around the mount on Amazon. Hopefully that will work. regards Robert
  5. Hi Andyo, thanks - I have looked at the Lindy offerings but they don'y do exactly what I am after - I have also tried my local computer shop and they drew a blank too. The cable I am looking for is as follows: length - about 30cm - 1m is too long though I could coil it up end 1 - USB 2.0 mini-type B plug 5 position - camera end end 2 - USB 2.0 type B plug - FW body end I can do this with two cables but I cannot get both cables very short and it introduces another connector that could pull part. I think that they can be got in the US but not here in the UK - and e-bay drew a blank too. Any ideas? regards Robert
  6. Hi, having just received an SX trius 694M with EFW I was wondering if anyone has found a source of a shorter cable that connects the FW body back to the body of the SX camera. The supplied cable is far too long and the mini-USB to USB 2.0 male/female adaptor to mini-USB cable is a bit long and can get tangled. regards Robert
  7. Hi gang, looks like I missed some of the fun. I had to leave by the Wednesday but I saw enoug clear night skies to know that I will/should return sometime. Anyway I did see some wildlife - namely a Golden Eagle on Tuesday and I got a few snaps of dso's. I those immortal words -I'll be back. thanks Robert
  8. Hi Mike, update - the driver does work with windows 10 - but I have found that I needed a powered USB/Serial adaptor for it to work - a simple cable USB/serial won't work. I have connected to the mount and bench tested the connection indoors. I just did a trial manual sync using the IH, connected the laptop using AstroPlanner v2, fired up the AWR-EQ6 ASCOM connection and the program can control the mount. Hope this helps. Robert
  9. Hi Mike, sorry for not replying sooner but I have the ASCOM driver for the AWR microstep drivebox. It is published by a company called Tigra Networks. http://www.tigranetworks.co.uk/ Unfortunately it costs quite a few quid - I think about £75 when I purchased it quite a few years ago. As far as I can remember it works with Windows up to 7 but since I last used it I now run a W10 laptop and I'm hoping that Tigra can sort out a new driver for that - fingers crossed. hope this helps Robert
  10. Hello Mike, OK - thanks - I'll be sorting a booking out soon. regards Robert
  11. Hi. I am new to the GSP but I'm a regular at KSSP and KASP. I was wondering if anyone would be at the GSP from Sunday 30th October?. I have commitments before the 30th October and after the 3rd November but I'd be up for the dates in between to get to the GSP. regards Robert
  12. Hi all, this link will take you to my Flkr photo-stream showing some of the images from my recent trip to Tivoli. Hope to go back there again in 2016. Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/56553919@N04/sets/72157645078039525/# regards Robert
  13. Hi all, If ll my plans work out I'm off to Tivoli Astro Farm in late May this year. I was hoping that there may be others on this forum that have either been - yes I've found some of your posts - or may be planning to be at Tivoli Astro Farm when I am there too - during the last week in May. If so may I say 'Hi' and clear skies too. It would be nice to hear from you before my Namibian astro-adventure begins. thanks Rob
  14. Hi guys, I get the feeling that the current set up is fine and should be left as is. thanks for the responses. Robert
  15. Hi group, I am part way through upgrading my very nice - and quite old [ 20+years?] - Intes 6-inch Mak-Newt. I've replaced the focuser with a modern design with motor focus and now I want to look at improving the way that the main mirror is supported. The main mirror in my scope has a hole in the middle through which a custom metal bolt attaches the mirror to the mirror cell. The bolt has a machined central 'flat' to use when collimating the optics. The mirror cell is essentially just a flat plate. The Mirror is locked into place using a special keyed nut and the custom bolt has a grub screw which needs a special tool to immobilise the bolts as the nut is turned- one false move during this operation and I could wreck the mirror. This plate is connected to the back plate of the optical tube by two sets of bolts. One set physically attaches the mirror cell plate to the tube back plate and are 'pull bolts'. The second set push against the mirror cell plate and the two sets in tandem provide a means of coarse collimation. Having had to re-collimate the optic recently I have found this arrangement somewhat flimsy and in need of modernisation. So, can anyone suggest a way forward? regards Robert
  16. Hi Gang, I am hoping to get to Dumfies and Galloway in late September 2013, and I was hoping someone in this forum could provide some heads up for me on the choice location. I've come up with a short-list of four places, namely: Sanquar SE of Cummock Crossmichel, near Castle Douglas Barr, near Girvan on the west coast Moniaive, NW of Dumfries Any coments on the above list? .............. also are there problems withmidges in late September? regards Robert
  17. Hi Jason. yes I'll be there [star camp regular since 2005]. I'm up in Kielder from Sunday 18th March - if any SGL member is around in Kielder before the StarCamp starts on the 21st please let me know. in advance. For those who would like to know how good the skies can be perhaps you might look at the 'Northumberalnd' page of my website... Home ..... just browse the Astronomy menu and select Northumberland page from the drop down list I think I had magnitude 10 skies in November 2011 and magnitude 9 skies in Twixmas 2011 Robert
  18. Hi Keith, thanks for the suggestions - I looked at both and thought maybe? So, my helical focuser is attached to a Intes Makstov Newtonian. It was transplanted off another Intes MN telescope by an ATM near me - but he's now retired and moved to the Canaries. I don't have any equipment to do the mods myself - the focuser is made of brass/alloy. I have at least one possible option currently unexplored so I'll investigate and see where that takes me. regards Rob
  19. Hi gang, I have a telescope that has a helical focusser - this was recently installed to replace a poor quality crayford as it has a much lower profile and allows me to use a DSLR to take images. So, I've since found out that, as I also now want to get into CCD imaging, focussing and seeing the effects on my laptop currently involve a certain amount of gymnastics. Therefore I was wondering if anyone has done a mod to make a HF remotely focussable. Two thoughts come to mind: 1) fashioning an adaptor ring gear, to go over the HF thumbwheel - connected to a 'slow motion control' taken from a basic EQ mount or 2) Again using an adaptor collar together with a home-built or possibly off-the-shelf motor focus. Any suggestions to get me started would be welcome. I don't have any tools for doing machining of gears. Rob
  20. Hi all, just returned from a holiday in Berdun, northern Spain. All I can say is that the night skies were superb - saw the Milky Way on 10 of the 14 nights I was there. Sadly I only had a short time each night to do some imaging - with an AstroTrak - but I can definitely recommend this place for Astronomy = shame that its a ~150Km drive from the nearest Airport [Zarragoza or Biaritz]. The Milky Way was visible from 30 minutes after sunset and I found a place only 0.5Km walk from the town centre that was dark enough to observe or take images. hope you can get there sometime soon. regards Rob
  21. Hi, I'm putting together a 'lightbox' for creating 'flats'. I'm using two 'strings' of white LEDs arranged in a 'cross pattern' to provide illumination. I'm trying to find a way to diffuse the LED light to create an evenly illuminated panel. Can anyone suggest a suitable [and 'lightweight] material that would work - I've tried using a flat piece of opaque white plastic panel but the LED light isn't diffused enough. thanks Rob
  22. Hi all, to follow up my previous post about CCD cameras, I think that I've had bit of a stroke of luck - in that I've been offered a second hand camera for free. Although I don't quite know which camera it is, I believe it is an early Pictor model [as I've been told it has a SCSI interface ]. I think I should be able to get it to work with a modern laptop - but I'd like to know which is the best way to connect it?: PCMCIA to SCSI card [not so easy to find?] or USB to SCSI interface [available?] Are there any pitfalls with using such an 'old' camera [which has a manual filter wheel so I am told] with a modern laptop or net-book [Windows 7 OS] regards Rob
  23. Hi all, I joined SGL to get some advice on better cameras and techniques. I started off AP some 10+ years ago with a Zenit 312m slide film camera and made the jump to DSLR in 2008. In the past 10+ years I've seen 3 solar eclipses, the 1999 Leonids and taken a small refractor to such far away places as Chile and China. I've also taken a PST to many a country including Libya [2006!] I'm gradually building up my galley of APs and trying to spend as much time in 'dark skies' places as possible. If you want to see some of m adventures please take a look at my website : Home R
  24. Hi tiklaumin Thanks Also, any thoughts about the Atik Titan as I think that the Atik 16ic is no longer available and the Titan is its 'replacement'? regards R
  25. Hi all, I'm new to this forum so apologies if I don't quite get this right. I'm contemplating the purchase of an entry level colour CCD camera for lunar, planetary and bright DSO work. I've been using a Toucam 2 for quite a few years now but, when my laptop eventually dies I may not be able to use with with a new one and I wanted to look at something with higher resolution/more sensitivity etc. So, I'd appreciate any views on the the suitability of the following fo the imaging I want to do: DBK-21 AU04 Colour USB or Atik 16ic or QHY6 I have a 6-inch Intes Mak Newt and a Borg 77Eco regards R PS I need to be able to easily use these using a 'battery based' power supply [i.e. no mains supply]
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.