Gina

Had it printing but filament not sticking to bed - didn't seem hot enough. Should be 100°C but it wasn't that hot to the touch so the thermistor calibration must be out.

Fixed the bed levelling - fault in the grid code.

I was hoping changing to the Duet control board would make the printing motion quieter but it hasn't X and Y movements are about the same but the Z is distinctly worse. Strange because the Mini is very quiet. There are one or two differences - the Mini uses CoreXY whereas the Titan is Cartesian with separate drives for the X and Y and hence more pulleys. Also the pulleys on the Mini are bigger. It may be worth changing the Titan to CoreXY but I don't know if it will make all that much difference and it would be a fair amount of work. Also, I'm planning to move the printer out of the living room into the workshop when I've set it up with a camera so the noise will be a lot less important - as long as it prints well.

Z homing worked but it didn't do the bed levelling routine. Setting up a 3D printer always seems to need sorting out at every step however many times you've done it before and copied code and instructions from previous setups!!! Nearly there I think but I don't know how many other things are wrong.

Found it M558 P4 H7 F600 T6000 I1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds I1 needed to specify that the probe goes low on detection.

Z homing didn't work properly It raised the bed and the Z probe endstop light came on but it didn't stop until the bed hit the nozzle. Then it was a case of "Emergency STOP"! I seem to remember having this problem before - I'll check...

Filament loaded and warming up ready for the first print with the Duet WiFi control board.

XYZ motors now working correctly though the Z seems very noisy - much noisier than before. Both heaters and thermistors working. Extruder motor turning in the right direction. Z probe working. I think that's all the pre-printing tests completed so I guess I could try a print.

Ha ha. Not only are some going the wrong way but I got X and Y mixed up. I was thing the top motor was X but it's Y Silly ass! I'll power down and switch off and swap the plug over.

Having moved the 5v power link fro internal to external, it works Now testing. Web interface works so I'm controlling from that. Enabled ATX power control and turned PSU on. Hotend fan started up noisily That's connected to an "Always ON" connector so it's on all the time the ATX PSU is powered up. Tested X and Y endstops and they're alright. Now to test the motors - some are bound to go the wrong way

Connector for +5v-SB and PS-ON wired up to PSU and plugged in. Connector for hotend fan wired up and plugged in too. I still need to mount the Duet board but I think the wiring is all done now.

Forgot one thing - the ATX PSU PS-ON and +5v-SB.

I'm fed up with cleaning hotends so I decided to buy this stuff to clean the hotend every so often.

Phew!! These 3D printers don't half have a lot of wiring!! Let's see what I've done... Main power - 12v from ATX PSU. Bed heater wired up. 24v PSU negative to power Gnd, positive to bed heater, other bed heater wire the BED terminal on Duet board. Bed thermistor plugged in. Hotend heater connected. Hotend thermistor connected. All four motors connected. Endstops wired up, including Z probe which needed resistor divider replaced with Schottky diode. 24v PSU needed moving to reduce wire lengths. Hotend and fume extraction fans to be wired up. Part cooling will be added later (not needed for ABS).

Had a clogged hotend so yesterday I took it all apart and put the parts in a sealed jar with acetone (been printing ABS so this is a solvent) to cover them and left them overnight to soften the gunge. Today I took the parts and cleaned them (quite a job even though the gunge was softened) then reassembled with thermal grease. Finally, after heating to 260, I tightened the nozzle again to try to avoid leakage.

Still on the re-wiring. A few changes needed to the layout. More to do than I thought! Coming on though. I guess this would be a good time to swap the bed heater for a mains one but I would prefer to take one step at a time and continue to use the 24v 300W one. I'll change the bed heater when I change from 12v to 24v. I'm going to continue with a 12v main power supply ATM.

Finished the glass plate reorientation and fixings earlier today and been printing parts for my Marble Machine I find this printer quite fascinating watching the pink cord winding and unwinding on the motor drums I see I have a filament leak on the hotend to be fixed tomorrow! Needs re-tightening.

Been stripping out the RAMPS etc. ready for the Duet board.

The other aluminium billet has arrived - 25mm x 15mm x 100mm.

I have a small change to make on the print bed having tried printing a maximum sized object. The borosilicate glass plate is 200mm x 213mm and I have it "landscape" orientated with the long side on the X axis which seemed appropriate since the Z probe is offset in the X direction but the probe is catching on the frame on the right hand side. I have decided to turn the glass plate 90° and hold it on the front and back edge only. This will enable me to use the full 200mm x 200mm heated area. Up until now I haven't wanted to print right out to the edges and anything that size I have printed on my Titan printer but there are occasions where I shall want the greater accuracy and finer printing of the Mini and this is an easy modification to give me that extra few millimetres.

Been weighing things... The extruder motor weighs 300g whereas the copper water block I used fro DSLR cooling weighs 120g. So by going for Bowden feed I can save nearly 200g on the X carriage even with the relatively heavy 40x40x10mm copper water block. I think I may try water cooling with the water block and save myself some work.

With the extruder motor weighing in at 300g I can save a lot of weight on the X carriage by going for Bowden feed. I think I nay go for 3mm filament as I have considerable stocks of this size mostly in ABS but also PLA and other types and this size makes for a simpler hotend cooling block if I go for water cooling. I'm also thinking of making my own hotend heater block with higher power and filament melting capability to reduce printing times, which are very significant for this size of printer - I'm thinking of maybe 2 x 60W heaters giving a massive 120W which would almost certainly need water cooling. I'm also thinking of a much bigger nozzle size than the maximum or 1.2mm of the Volcano hot end, maybe 2mm.

The mains voltage heater pad I ordered has arrived so I'm ready to upgrade the bed heater and avoid using the 24v PSU for bed heating.

One of the pieces of aluminium has arrived - 1¼" x 5/8" x 4" but still waiting for the 25mm x 15mm x 100mm which should arrive tomorrow.

I have had another idea for the water jacket. I have some thin copper sheet which could be cut to shape and edges bent up, soldered to another piece to make a flat water jacket which can be held against the hotend cooling block. Small pieces of copper or brass tube could be soldered on for connecting the pipes. If soldered well enough this will be watertight without any gaskets to leak. I have a small gas blowlamp that I can use for soldering copper. I have done this before with cooling a DSLR for astro imaging.