Gina

Strange - it's already in there ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.20 or newer) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Jan 31 2018 19:48:21 GMT+0000 (GMT) ; General preferences M111 S0 ; Debugging off G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P1 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like RepRapFirmare ; Automatic saving after power loss is not enabled M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X400 Y400 Z800 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Set active high endstops M558 P4 H10 F120 T6000 I1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds G31 P500 X20 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X15:385 Y15:385 S125 ; Define mesh grid ; Drives M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X50.93 Y50.93 Z763.95 E418.5 ; Set steps per mm M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X6000 Y6000 Z3000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X500 Y500 Z250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1500 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Heaters M305 P0 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 M143 H1 S301 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Network M550 PGinaRep Giant ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Enable network M587 S"Ubiquity" P"5a3853a2a4" ; Configure access point. You can delete this line once connected M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet ; Fans M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Custom settings are not configured !

Now to analyse the results... X+10 moves Y -10 and X+10. Y+10 moves Y +10 and X -10. Conclusion - CoreXY not enabled. Needs M667 S1 ; switch to CoreXY mode

Managed to finish threading the XY cords and tensioning them. Now to see if I have the motors the right way round and rotating in the right direction - three things to get wrong

Filament is jamming in the Bowden coupler on top of the heatsink - probably have to drill it out.

Water cooling system set up and working.

Motors are all working. Increased Z maximum speed to 3000mm/m = 50mm/s and it runs fine A 100mm step taking just two seconds. So a 700mm range is moved in 14s. I checked the calibration with steel rule and it's correct within the tolerance of this method of measurement. This movement seems easy even with motor current left at the default 800mA.

This will be a very useful section in the wiki when it's finished.

The new Duet wiki has better information on setting the Z probe height.

Test Results :- Test temperature sensors at room temperature - tick Hotend heater - 17-200°C very fast - tick

Test Results :- Endstops - all working but all inverted logic! Changed from S1 to S0 to correct X & Y endstops. M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Set active low endstops The Z endstop uses a probe and problem cured by adding I1 in M558 command as below. M558 P4 H10 F120 T6000 I1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds

Connected laptop USB to Duet, ran Repetier Host, selected Manual Control tab and sent M552 to the Duet which replied with the IP address and Access Point etc. Disconnected USB and switch on mains power and now have remote control via Firefox on Linux Mint desktop. Now for testing...

I now have power and about to start testing. I think I need to connect the Duet to USB to determine the IP address after which I can control it from my main desktop and Firefox.

As a short cut to providing power I have two standard 12v PSUs (25A and 16.7A) connected in series to provide 24v for the main supply to the Duet and 12v for the water pump. Later these will be replaced with the ATX and 24v 15A PSU as per the diagram above but for testing I shall have always on power with just the switch on the mains socket to switch on and off. After testing and when everything is working (hopefully) I shall move the printer out of my living room with the PSUs changed over. The 24v 15A PSU I plan to use is currently providing power for the print bed on my Titan printer which will be upgraded to a mains powered bed heater, providing faster heating and freeing up the 15A 24v PSU.

I too found honeycomb unsuitable and having tried all sorts (in Slic3r) went for Rectilinear which is fast and vibration free. This may be the same as linear in Simplify3D. It draws lines at 45 degrees in one layer and -45 degrees in the next forming a criss-cross pattern. I tried concentric and that was good too but I think it took a bit longer to print. It was a while back and I can't remember now. As for Bowden feed, I last tried that several years ago and many improvements in both hardware and software/firmware have occurred since then.

With the extruder mounted and the Bowden tube connected up I find the tube tends to catch on various things when the XY carriage is high up. This will mean the printing height will be restricted to something like 600-700mm or maybe less. It's not certain that I shall keep to a Bowden feed - in some ways direct feed would be easier though adds considerably to the mass of the X carriage assembly. Anyway, I'll just see how it goes.

Now to the current required. The Duet can source up to 2.4A per motor but I doubt I'll go above 2A. The hotend heater is a total of 120W at 24v which is 5A so at the maximum rating I might want 4x2.4 + 5 = 14.6A. At 2A per motor this would reduce to 13A so a 15A PSU would be wanted is either case.

Soon be time to sort out the power supplies. Here is the power supply wiring diagram. Main power ON/OFF control will be provided by a PC type ATX PSU with the +5v Standby supplying 5v for the Duet logic. The main printer power of 24v will be supplied by a separate 24v PSU with its mains supply controlled by the standard +5v rail of the ATX PSU and SSR (Solid State Relay). The ATX is controlled by the PS-ON input from the Duet board. This allows for automatic power off after the print run has finished or in an emergency. Remote power control is recommended by the makers of the Duet WiFi 3D printer control board for safety. The circulating pump for the water cooling is 12v and is powered by the +12v rail of the ATX PSU and controlled by the Duet. The Duet also controls another SSR which is used to switch the mains powered print bed heater. With the printer being remote controlled via its web interface this means standby power for the Duet logic can be on continuously and the main power remotely controlled.

Lots of wiring up completed and extruder motor mounted. Used spiral wrap to attach the wiring for the hotend and parts cooling fan to the Bowden tube to keep them tidy and prevent tangling up in moving parts. I shall also attach the cooling water tubes to the bundle lightly (to prevent squashing as these are very flexible). Duet board attached to one of the frame rails. Job progressing slowly but steadily

Good point about multiple cameras Dave I've found there is no one place that's right for a camera so multiple cameras should solve the problem.

Now sorting out all the cabling...

Now I have the bones of the machine assembled I've been thinking about the possibility of boxing it in to provide a fume cabinet and also to enable a heated enclosure to help when printing ABS and any other type of filament that benefits from keeping warm. The external dimensions of the frame are 720mm x 610mm, with the motors on the XY frame sticking out back and front. In view of this I think one of the shorter sides would be best for the door. It probably isn't necessary to have more than one side transparent (the door) and make the other sides from lengths of timber and plywood. I plan to include a webcam somewhere to provide remote viewing of the printing process.

X carriage now installed on X rail. XY carriage installed in main frame and levelled. Very nearly ready to install Duet board and wire up. Just need to attach top acrylic sheet and extruder motor. Then the wiring can be sorted out and the XY cords threaded round and attached to the X carriage. (The Z drive is already done except for the wiring to the Duet board.)

Here's a photo of the complete X carriage.

Been working on the heater block, some small modifications and drilled a hole for the thermistor. Now all assembled with a pair of 24v 60W cartridge heaters and thermistor with thermal paste for heaters and thermistor. Heater block now clamped to water block, again with thermal paste between.

Heatsink block now finished. That's the M6 tapped hole, counter drilled 10mm in top to take the Bowden coupler such that the end touched the heatbreak. The the 40mm length cut off the 100mm billet.