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About robster

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  1. It's a professional sports camera (not that I use if for that, but it is ideally suited to my professional needs, which is why I have it). I guess most sports 'togs don't do 30s exposures!!!! Yes - it does have a bulb setting, so I've ordered a cheap intervalometer - might get it this side of next Easter if I'm lucky......Betelguese will have probably supanova'd by the time it arrives
  2. Thanks Billy. Intervalometer on it's way!! I had thought of about 2 hrs of subs, so I was in the right ball park. Optical train is the same, so all OK there. Thanks
  3. Thanks for the lovely replies....but any suggestions what I do about the limitation to 30s? Thanks!!!
  4. Thanks Pankaj! It was 100 X 10s exposures at ISO1600, 50 darks, 50 bias and 50 flats. Stacked in DSS and processed in PS. The optics of that lens though and the quality of that camera are truely astounding.
  5. Hi, I'm new to Astrophotography, but been bitten by the bug (see attached last night's attemt at M42 and friends, that I'm quite happy with for my second ever DSO picture!). My work involves me having a Sony A9 Mk II and in the kit are a whole load of lenses, indluding a F5.6 200-600mm zoom. This is an exeptional camera, and I'm very lucky to have use of it. It's this setup that I did the M42 shot of. As the weather will be clear again tonight, I want to attempt the Rosette Nebula. The problem is that my camera's maximum shutter speed is 30s - and most people are advising somewhere between 30 and 100 shots at between 120s and 240s (ISO1600). I see my choces as being: 1) Shoot more lights at a maximum exposure of 30s each 2) Increase the ISO to 6400 (noise is pretty good on this camera, even with all noise reduction switched off) 3) A combination of 1 and 2 above. There are a few aftermarket interval timers, that may allow longer shutter times, but I can't get one in time for this evening!! Thoughts? Thanks Rob
  6. Hi, I’m a bit of a newbie, I’m afraid, and I'm struggling to get my polar alignment right, despite watching a load of you tibe videos etc.. The process I follow is : 1) Get the HA from either the PS Align App or from my synscan handset 2) Line the polar scope up so that polaris is right at the bottom of the reticule 3) Set the RA ring to zero 4) Rotate RA using the northern hemisphere calibrations to the HA. I have used the PS Align app to get my HA – it reports, say 8:22.2, which is the same as my synscan handset reports. However, the reticule display on the app, shows Polaris at just below the nine oclock position (assuming a 12 hour clock face; see image:). If, however, I use the HA of 8:22.2 on my EQ mount, the position of polaris is nowhere near that as represented on the app. I have started with Polaris at the zero position (straight down the the reticule) and am definitely using the Norther hemisphere HA ring on the mount. It's definatley not just inverted - I've tried that!! Any advice appreciated?
  7. Borrowed a camera from work for the weekend and mounted on my EQ5GT mount. Polar alignment was rubbish because I was rushing. This was my first time using anything like deep sky stacker, and the first time I've taken a photo of the sky. I was fairly impressed with the results, although I didn't seem to get the flat files right, so I didn't use them - 100 lights, 50 bias and 50 darks. Sony A9II with a 200-600 f5.6-6.3 lens set at the long end. ISO800, Shutter speed of six seconds.
  8. The bit that's important is sharp - that's good old bokeh - and on that lens is something astounding (that's £1,200 of Canon's finest glass there!!) - you don't need to see a sharp focuser
  9. Here's a pic - sorry....beem busy at work this week. Tough photo to get - I'm sure the mirror is central under the focuser, although this shot looks like it might not be. It's quite difficult to see the black cresent, as it was black against a black blackground, but if drawn a red line about it so its easier to see....
  10. Hi, Thanks for the comments....no....not a conservatory - just a room with a lot of windows! And it's not stored there - it's usually kept in it's original box in the spare bedroom. Got me worried now about warped mirror cells - can this really happen to glass? (is the primary glass?) Confused of Exmoor!!
  11. OK, Thanks for the replies....here's my replies..... There's a pic of my EP setup below. I can find the focus "sweet spot", it's just not crisp. I've never really seen a crisp image through it. I was initially putting this down to cheap EPs, but now I'm not so sure. - I've had the scope for nearly a year, but shortly after I got I got posted away from home, so it hasn't got much use until now. Removing the EP and looking down the focus tube from five feet - I see the primary, but with a black crescent on the bottom left hand edge, I would say at it's thickest part, it's somewhere between 5% to 8% across the image circle. Hope this all makes sense! Cheers!
  12. And further to last post - Having just watched the vid above - I can never get the spider vane star burst effect - always stays just outside of that level of clarity.
  13. What I mean by "unsatisfactory focus" is that I can't get hard, crisp, focus on stars, planets or DSOs - this in consistant across both my EPs (SW 28mm 2" and BST 8mm) and my camera (EOS 5D MKii). Things that I try to focus on always appear to be soft - a direct comparison to a friends 200P puts mine in the shade. Unless there is a fault with one of the mirrors, I can't think of anything other than collimation. How do I rule out all the possibilities? Thanks for your help so far.
  14. I need help please....I'm still a newbie, and have had unsatisfactory focus issues since I started with my setup - (SW 200 P DS on EQ5(goto). I'm using the stock 28mm and a BST 8mm, and can never seem to acheive crisp focus. I have a chesire colimator, and have followed astrobaby's and astroshed's instructions, and thought I had it lined up right, but obviously not. I read somewhere that a de-focused star should look like a donut through a correctly colimated scope, but mine don't.....I took a photo of what I get and have pasted it below (please ignore the movement - 8 second exposure with no tracking), the shape is obviously not donut shaped...... So is it colimation that's the problem? or is there something else wrong with my setup. How do I correct it? Any ideas would be very much appreciated!!!!! Anyone in the Exmoor area fancy a pint / coffee / tea / cake one weekend to teach me the laws of colimation, please PM!!! Thanks Rob
  15. Love M31 - I've just started joining my 5Dii and telescope together, and by beginners lack of knowledge has left me a little frustrated - but you've inspired me to keep trying! I'll be using the 100-400L too I think!
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