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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. I have used an older HEQ5 mount with my 9.5kg 130mm triplet refractor, on a Berlebach UNI 28 tripod and it worked OK for visual. Some vibrations that needed a few seconds to dampen down at high magnifications but it was just about manageable. 

    With the APM 140 doublet being shorter than my F/9.2 triplet, you may well find that a newer HEQ5 is more stable than it was with my 130mm triplet. The use of a Losmandy dovetail bar will help as well.

    tmb130heq503.JPG.0c2e2e40146282027a3c507d8e80a14e.JPG

     

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  2. It's a great looking scope and big refractors always get a lot of attention at star parties and shows, quite understandably.

    Having owned a few 150mm refractors I'm not sure that I could comfortably handle a 180mm though :rolleyes2:

    I believe that one of our members is waiting for a 200mm plus triplet refractor in due course - that will be something to marvel at as well :icon_biggrin:

     

     

  3. 1 hour ago, PeterC65 said:

    Tonight I've used the new ES EP to observe the Moon and can report that the image was noticeably crisper than with the Hyperion Zoom, the smaller craters jumping out at me when I got the focus just right whereas they stayed a bit fuzzy with the Hyperion Zoom (it was a full Moon so I was expecting surface detail to be washed out). The whole experience with the ES EP felt more immersive because of the wider FoV. I can see this EP taking over from the Celestron 40mm and even the Baader Zoom in some cases.

    Once you have tried an optic that seems a noticeably better performer than other alternatives you have, it's quite difficult to give the others much use I've found :rolleyes2:

     

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  4. 18 hours ago, Sunshine said:

    In my 10” f6 dob it produced stars with seagull effect at the edges of the Fov which I could not ignore as they were prominent, not sure why.

    Very surprised by that. My Panoptic 24 is pin sharp right across the field with my F/5.3 12 inch dob :icon_scratch:

     

     

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  5. With my 12 inch F/5.3 Orion Optics dob, I've flocked a 10 inch deep section of half the tube wall opposite the focuser (ie: behind the secondary mirror) and about 12 inches of the tube wall above the primary mirror, all around the tube.

    With my 8 inch F/6 Orion Optics (recently acquired) I've yet to do that.

    I didn't see a big difference when I did my 12 inch to be honest but it gave a bit of peace of mind anyway. The big difference with that scope was putting a light shade around top of the tube to keep stray light off the drawtube end and secondary which are positioned close to the top rim of the tube. That made a lot of difference to deep sky contrast.

     

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  6. 15 minutes ago, Sunshine said:

    I am upset because I had this eyepiece but it wasn't suited for my dob at the time so I sold it, I would love to have it now for my refractor. 

    Why didn't it work with your dob ?

    I find mine works very well with my F/5.3 12 inch dob :icon_scratch:

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  7. 28 minutes ago, MylesGibson said:

    ...I've also liked pointing my scope over at the constellation Leo when I get a few hours as there are a few nice ones there too

    Algieba (Gamma Leonis) was the very 1st double star that I observed with a scope. 40 or so years ago with my Tasco 60mm refractor. I was very thrilled to see those two golden spots of light so close together :smiley:

    Iota Leonis is a tight and unequal brightness pair I seem to recall. Quite challenging.

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  8. 12 minutes ago, cajen2 said:

    Thanks, John x2!

    I didn't know if the ED glass in the SL made any difference?

    I have used the GSO ED version of that 2 inch SL barlow (I'm pretty sure that GSO make the SL one as well). It was decent but not as good as a Focal Extender / Powermate, in my opinion.

    To be fair though I have not actually used the StellaLyra version.

     

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  9. Of those I've owned  the Baader and the ES Focal Extender. I currently use the Baader with a zoom eyepiece to create a high power zoom and it works pretty well. I don't use it with my other eyepieces though - I've enough focal lengths without needing to barlow them.

    I compared the ES 2x Focal Extender to the Tele Vue Powermate 2.5x and the ES was very good indeed. If I relied more on a barlow / extender more extensively I would go for the ES Focal Extender over the Baader 2.25x barlow I think. The Focal Extender has much less impact on focus position and eye relief than a barlow and does not vignette the field edges of eyepieces with large field stops like a barlow does.

     

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  10. Congratulations on the 24mm Panoptic :smiley:

     

    35 minutes ago, Saganite said:

    I used the ES 24mm some years ago, and I thought it excellent, as good as the Panoptic, but I have long been a dedicated user of binoviewers and my IPD  is insufficient to make use of a pair of them whereas the 24mm Pan is perfect for the job.  If you use the ES 24mm  in Cyclops mode you will have no cause to wonder if you made the right choice.

    I've been on the same journey and felt the same regarding the ES 24mm / 68. I did end up with a 24mm Panoptic even though I don't binoview. Must be dedicated to the brand :rolleyes2:

    I'm sure that I could have quite happily lived with the ES 24 / 68 though, or for that matter the Maxvision 24 / 68 that I had before it. Both excellent in all my refractors.

     

     

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  11. Well done !

    Simple designs such as orthos and plossls with their 4 elements in 2 groups designs are not too bad but the lens elements are small with the shorter focal lengths so the process can be fiddly.

    If the one you did is one of the Starbase orthos, I think they are a 2 + 2 design more like a plossl, as you found. The "classic" abbe ortho design is a 1 + 3, ie: a single element eye lens and a triplet field lens. A 2+2 design can still be orthoscopic though, as I understand it. With the 2 + 2 designs generally the convex lens surfaces face inwards, towards each other, and the flat surfaces face outwards but it sounds like the elements in yours were concave on one side ?

    The older Vixen made "Or." eyepieces are also a 2 + 2 design I seem to recall when I took some apart to clean many years back.

    I think I would be very wary of taking apart one of the more complex designs !

     

     

     

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  12. I've assumed that I was seeing the mag 2.95 and 5.40 stars. The split can be an odd one to get though - when I first observed it I was seeing what looked like a thickening in the 1st diffraction ring around the brighter star - rather like a thin snake which has swallowed a tennis ball !. It did seem to be at about the correct position angle at that time. As I observed it more often the stellar nature of this "lump" became clearer / better defined - I guess my eye was getting more practiced ?. My 130mm refractor does a really good job on this one but, now I know what to look for, I can do it with the 100mm as well, when the seeing is decent.

     

     

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  13. Hello and welcome to the forum :icon_biggrin:

    Try and keep your eyepieces a little warmer than the outside temperature. That will stop them getting condensation and fogging up from the heat from your eye if they get really cold. Pockets can be useful for this !

    To stop scope optics misting up a dew shield or heated dew bands are usually used.

    If your optics do mist up, don't wipe them. Use a hairdryer as advised above or let the mist clear by bringing the scope inside and letting it warm up.

     

     

  14. 1 hour ago, IB20 said:

    There’s a £28 10mm BCO in the classifieds right now. I’ve just been out with mine looking at the Great Red Spot, I can’t praise it highly enough.

    When you consider that the BCO 10mm was placed somewhere between the Delos 10mm and Zeiss ZAO ortho 10mm in the very top tier for deep sky observing by some leading very large scope / dark sky observers in the USA a couple of years back, that's a considerable bargain I reckon :icon_biggrin:

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  15. 4 minutes ago, Telescope40 said:

     

    Thanks guys. Any specific links. I’ve had search but no joy. 
    Thx. John 

    This one has sold but at least you can ID the seller - he / she may well put some more up or maybe could do you one specially ?:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Telescope-EQ5-CG5-Mount-Top-DEC-Motor-Cover-Kit-Black-or-White-/143984702485?nma=true&si=HaPXw%2BNjoJiLKCmMP33yxqr%2Flw0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

  16. 5 minutes ago, UKDiver said:

    I'd probably commit to new kit if I could only try first, espcially if I could compare makes/variants.....

    A great idea, if you can. Eyepieces are such a personal choice. What really works well for one person might prove not so suitable for another.

    It's take me years and plenty of experimenting to come up with choices which I feel suit me and my scopes optimally :rolleyes2:

     

  17. 57 minutes ago, UKDiver said:

    Thank you for the recommendation and reasoning, not that understood all the technical elements. That will come.

    I've also been recommended the Baader 8-24 Zoom, I assume for wider views. If such tools are so useful, what are the tradeoffs with respect to fixed FL eyepieces?

    Adrian

    The Tele Vue Nagler zooms are in a different class to the Baader - they really do rival specialist fixed focal length high power eyepieces and maintain a constant 50 degree field of view across their zoom range. I use the (discontinued) Nagler 2mm-4mm zoom frequently with my Takahashi and other refractors.

    The Baader is probably one of the best of the mid-range zooms but, for me, does not quite perform as well as decent fixed focal length eyepieces. Having the zoom facility is useful though and it's good to have one in the eyepiece case but personally I would not want to rely entirely on a zoom for mid-range focal lengths. 

     

     

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  18. 29 minutes ago, Franklin said:

    I don't think there is one for the synta DEC motor, the Vixen MT-1 were covered themselves. However, you can get one on Ebay, there's someone 3D printing them on there.

    I used one of those 3D printed covers on my Vixen GP dec motor (which was a Synta one) and it worked very well for around £10.00.

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