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Alkaid

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Posts posted by Alkaid

  1. 21 hours ago, Alfian said:

    Some time ago I bought a Baader fringe killer and it worked pretty well on reducing CA on the luna limb but found the yellow cast distracting. I've just bought a s/h Baader  semi-apo filter to play with so it will be interesting to see how it works out. In all honesty the CA on the Tal100 and the Vixen is not at all bad anyway but the ST120 and the little Optic Star 90  will be a useful test. Will report back when weather plays ball.

    Hi Alfian,

    That’s great, I’d be really interested to hear your experience with the S/A filter.  For me, it ‘dimmed’ the halo to a darker shade, went from ‘blue’ to ‘navy blue’, still apparent.  But this is interesting, maybe it’s just me as we’re all different and have differing tolerances.

    Please would you take the time and effort to advise your findings with all of your Achro’s? That would give a great comparison from another perspective, I’d love to read this if you have the time.

    Cheers Steve

  2. Hi everyone,

    Had the F5 102 out on Jupiter last night.  Knowing that this would be a tough, perhaps futile test, popped in the Contrast Booster at x100. The planet had a nice tone to it which looked normal to me, fawns and browns etc. After some time and patience whilst the scope acclimatised and detail had to be teased out due to atmospheric dispersion blurring in and out, I picked out the GRS, plus a few other distinct zones.
     

    Not bad at all for a little F5 achromat with the planet so low down.  I didn’t bother trying it without the filter, from previous experience the image would have been a mess under these conditions.

    Then to Saturn, very small but clear, with a few moons in the vicinity.

    Then our own Moon, the brown hue of the CB filter being immediately noticeable, but the image was good.  As it was almost full moon I did not linger, just a quick look.

    Liking the CB filter in this scope...

    Cheers Steve

    • Like 4
  3. 32 minutes ago, Philip R said:

    How about a 'small' Maksutov or SCT?

    The downsides are is...

    • the long focal length; (I have an ETX105 and is f/14 or thereabouts).
    • dew magnets - a dew shield is a must have accessory and is not included.
    • cooling time of thirty minutes [minimum] if used for astronomy; (visual and imaging).
    • narrow field of view. (not yet tried with an FF/FR reducer from my C6/SCT-xlt).
    • expensive as are dedicated photographic mirror lenses.
    • left/right - east/west is reversed.

     

    The upsides is that they...

    • compact size.
    • are excellent lunar and planetary 'scopes.
    • hardly require collimation.
    • can be attached to photo/video tripod and suitable head. 
    • up/down - north/south is right way up.

    Phillip, I think the issue with a CAT is narrow FOV.  For terrestrial you really do need a bit of wide field to open up the view I feel.  Whilst a CAT can work well for looking at say a bird, it can take a while to find the bird whilst you’re panning around.  I reckon the refractor would be a better match.  Cheers Steve

    • Thanks 1
  4. You know, if it is predominantly over water as you say, an ED refractor would be better. You’ll be able to push the power a bit without any thermals ruining the image. Perhaps a little 72mm ED or 80mm ED model would be more suitable?

    Over water, my short focal ratio achromat starts to produce “poor” images at about x50.  An ED version would go much higher if required.  Don’t forget though that the wide field of view is also desirable and you get that with lower powers.

  5. If anyone suffers from Hayfever, I can attest that it has more than once killed off any early morning summer get ups for me.  If I take a tablet, I'm considerably knocked out during the night and very groggy the next morning (even with the non-drowsy type!).  If I don't take a tablet I'm groggy from the pollen!  🙂   One of my favourite months is September, as then the pollen is gone and I can finally set an alarm and get up to do this.  Keep writing your reports everyone, I really enjoy reading them to see what I've missed!  

  6. Should deliver nice coma free views, the optics will be nice. I think that a lot of the cost went into the ‘light switch’ mount, where it does all the alignment for you.  For that reason it’s aimed at beginners, or experienced visual observers who don’t want the hassle of setting up.  However most experienced observers probably see the mount as a bit of a gimmick and don’t mind spending time on alignment set-up.  They’d rather save some money instead.

    If it’s 2nd hand and a good price, it might serve well?

  7. This is a pretty general statement, but on high contrast detailed observing, (think Moon's terminator & crater shadows, Saturns Rings) the central obstruction does not have much effect.   However, on low contrast objects (separating reds and browns on Jupiter, albedo markings on Mars) then the effect of the obstruction really does take hold.  There's a few old threads on this subject and I think that the general consensus was that if you subtract the diameter of the obstruction from the aperture, you end up with an equivalent scope without obstruction.    

    For example, my 8" SCT is "very good" (to me!) on the Moon and allows me to see everything that that aperture should, seeing permitted.  But if I then went for Jupiter and started trying to separate the reds and browns, my scope would behave more like this..... 8" aperture minus 2" obstruction = 6" refractor.

    It's an interesting subject.

  8. Hi and welcome! Good news - you most certainly can see galaxies with that scope. You can see M31 (Andromeda Galaxy) quite easily, this was the first galaxy I had seen when I started out and was mesmerised. It will appear as a faint blob generally, but if you get out to a true dark sky site, it is very good.   And...when you’re at the dark site, many other fainter galaxies are well within reach of your scope.  The Virgo galaxy cluster is a cluster of riches. Have fun! (Half the fun is hunting them down).

  9. On 14/06/2020 at 15:43, Highburymark said:

    There are only two versions available today, the standard C8 and the Edge.

    Standard C8s come in black, grey (usually if bought with Evolution mount), or orange (as part of Nexstar SE package).  These are all the same otas.

    The C8 Edge has flatter focal plane, vents, mirror clutches etc.

    If buying one second hand I’d try and test it first. Some C8s deliver tighter stars than others. 

    You’re describing the new ones, all Chinese. Unfortunately the history of the C8 is so varied that it can be rather hard to find out what era an older one came from. Before a certain year, they were made in the US, in all of the colours you mention.

  10. I have a grey one. It has Starbright coatings, these preceded the newer Starbright XLT coatings. The newer XLT’s have a bit more light transmission but it’s a small increase, about 10% or something like that. Would help a little on DSO’s.

    I’d say mine was a ‘good’ specimen, views of the Moon at x220 are sharp and ‘hard’ ( no softness in the image).  I pushed it to x480 for fun one night and it ‘just’ (by skin of its teeth) held a reasonably acceptable image.  I don’t have an eyepiece combo that will do a more acceptable x250-300 but I reckon that in good seeing it would deliver.  However, good seeing where live is rare.  x220 is generally the max I go to and the view of a crater like Copernicus is fabulous.  

    I haven’t a clue if it’s a US or Chinese one, but I too have not heard of any complaints with the newer Chinese model.

  11. That’s interesting, if you rack an Achro focuser in one direction (I think it’s inwards) you’ll get the green spectrum. If your condition means that you can’t see green, then you might not be seeing as much CA.  I had a TAL100RS that when in focus exhibited it’s false colour in the green spectrum rather than blue. 

  12. 2 hours ago, Mark at Beaufort said:

    Steve that is a very good report on these filters. I enjoyed the read and your conclusions. I assume that someone with a 120mm or 150mm Achro, having gained more light, should consider the contrast booster above the others.

    Thanks Mark, yes indeed - I think that with the larger aperture achro's the contrast booster would be a solid performer.  I'd like to try one with a 150mm F8 someday. 

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