Remote controlled CCTV surveillance system - Arduino based

[Gina]

Thank you Chris - they look useful I've done some Googling and found some info. I'm thinking in terms of a Mini (no USB to serial) and using serial to upload the sketch with a separate USB to serial adapter (like I used in the SPC900NC LX mod).

[yesyes]

That's what I'm doing for the home automation system I'm developing. Lots of Minis around the house doing different things. All have the same connector for the serial port. Then I built one "programmer" which is a serial-to-USB adapter that plugs into the serial port on the Minis. Works well, but you need access to the reset button on the Mini. You need to press reset just before the IDE starts uploading the sketch.

[Gina]

Thank you Chris

[Gina]

Hi Chris - Been looking into various aspects of this project and I'm thinking of the 3.3v Arduino Mini for the Tx unit running off a pair of AA batteries. However the radio units I have are 5v so I've been looking at 3.3v Rx/Tx modules and also thinking about what you said earlier about reliability etc. I'm quite happy to spend a bit more for a much better product.

I found this tranceiver unit in the Arduino section :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-RF-Transceiver-Module-433M-CC1101-CC110-Spring-Antenna-F-Arduino-Robot-/290636908317?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43ab4f471d

And this is the model you suggested :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290741200025

They both use the same chip but seem to have other differences. Have you had yours working and which Arduino library does it use?

[yesyes]

The first module is basically just a breakout board for the CC1101 chip plus required external components. The board uses the SPI interface that is native to the C1101. I have not used this model but I would think that is should work. There seems to be plenty of SPI support on the Arduino. The CC1101 does not remember its settings. You would need to build that into your sketch to send the config to the CC1101 on power-up.

The other module is the same thing plus Arduino's little brother. There's an ATmega 48P on the module that does the SPI to TTL serial interface conversion and also remembers settings and sends them to the CC1101. This is the module I'm using a lot of (another 10 arrived yesterday). I use them on the hardware serial port on the Arduino Minis. They should also work fine on other pins using the NewSoftSerial library.

I'm also using these modules on a TTL serial to USB adapter as the PC side "base station".

Not sure I mentioned this before (I probably have) but I made a web page about this module because there was hardly any English documentation to be found.

http://www.yesyes.info/index.php/electronics/rf1100-232-rf-433mhz-transceiver-module/

[Gina]

Thank you Chris - that's very interesting I shall order a couple of the ones you are using. Yes, you did mention your web page for that tranceiver but thanks for posting the link again

[Gina]

I'm resurrecting this thread as I'm planning to do some work on this project inbetween astro stuff.

I shall follow Chris' advice and have the Arduino in the hand control running all the time in one of the sleep modes - I agree that a power-up from cold would take too long.

[Gina]

I think I might wish to pick your brains again Chris if you don't mind. BTW, your website link (http://www.yesyes.in...sceiver-module/) isn't working. I see I bought the same wireless/radio units as you (though I haven't located then as yet ).

There seems to be two ways of waking up the Arduino in the remote control when a button is pressed :-

1. Use in-built timer to wake up every few seconds and test the input pins
   
2. Use an interrupt
   

Method 1. looks easiest and uses fewer components. I could flash a LED to show the PB had been detected.

I have an Arduino Mini but maybe the bare chip might be better. I could run off 3 AA cells directly - no voltage regulator chip to consume power. Only thing is that it would need the bootstrap code written in with a programmer.

[Gina]

Found this - chip with bootloader already programmed in :- http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27d1b63b86

Or even - better chip with bootloader plus Xtal and capacitors :- http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e796e7fce

The latter is a 386 chip rather than a 186 chip - don't know what the difference is

I think I've already got USB to serial TTL adapters that I bought when I was doing the Philips webcam LX mod.

[Gina]

Correction to the above - Atmega 168 and 328

Here's a circuit diagram of the remote control unit. 12 buttons - 10 to select which camera and 2 to rotate left or right.

[Gina]

This is the base unit, controlling the cameras. 5v micro relays control which camera and it's associated servo motor is selected. These have 180ohm coils and take about 27mA of current - well within the capabilities of the Arduino (40mA max sourcing or sinking).

[Gina]

I've ordered a couple of ATmega 328 kits :- http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

This seems a good option for stand alone units where no computer connection is required except for uploading the sketch and a 5v power supply is available (Vcc limits 1.8v to 5.5v).

[opticalpath]

Yes, I had thought of a rotating mirror. The problem is in getting a mirror that will survive outdoors. A surface silvered mirror could be used inside the sheds but most of those need less than 180 degrees.

How about a rotating prism ... salvage from old binoculars?

Adrian

[Gina]

Please disregard what I posted above Chris - your web site is working now If you fixed it as a result of my post (or otherwise) - thank you

[Gina]

The double-post problem has just got worse - just had 3 copies of my post come up on the board Mod/admin delete please ...

[Gina]

Please disregard what I posted above Chris - your web site is working now If you fixed it as a result of my post (or otherwise) - thank you

[yesyes]

Please disregard what I posted above Chris - your web site is working now If you fixed it as a result of my post (or otherwise) - thank you

Nope, it was down most of yesterday, including email. So I didn't even get the notification about your post.

I'm happy to help with the RF modules, though I'm not quite sure what you are asking. Don't have much time now. I'm in the garden mixing concrete/mortar. I'm building a small wall in preparation for some paving work. Once this is done I can finally get started with my obsy. This is all taking WAY longer than expected...

[Gina]

Nope, it was down most of yesterday, including email. So I didn't even get the notification about your post.

I'm happy to help with the RF modules, though I'm not quite sure what you are asking. Don't have much time now. I'm in the garden mixing concrete/mortar. I'm building a small wall in preparation for some paving work. Once this is done I can finally get started with my obsy. This is all taking WAY longer than expected...

Glad your web site is up again I'm not actually asking anything about the RF modules ATM, thank you all the same

Yes, everything ALWAYS takes a lot longer than you expect!. Tim has recently returned home from hospital after a broken hip and needs extra help so my time for my own projects is severely limited and everything is proceeding at a snail's pace! Getting there but oh-so-slowly He's making very good progress though This is a project I can progress indoors and keep him company and I'm easily on call.

[yesyes]

I see... In post #33 (page 2) you said you wanted to pick my brain. That's what I was referring to... ;-)

[Gina]

I see... In post #33 (page 2) you said you wanted to pick my brain. That's what I was referring to... ;-)

Ah yes I see. What I meant was that I MIGHT want to pick your brains as you seem to be very knowledgeable about this. I'll see how I get on - might be able to sort oit out myself

[Gina]

I've downloaded the Rocket Scream low power library for the ATmega328P (http://www.rocketscream.com/blog/2011/07/04/lightweight-low-power-arduino-library/ ) ready to test when I get these in a couple of days. The processor chip will run off a supply of 1.8 to 5.5v but I'm not sure about the RF modules which are specified at 5v but which have been tested at 3.3v (by Chris). I will try reducing the supply voltage when I get set up and see what the lower limit is. I expect the Tx O/P power will decrease with a lower supply voltage which would reduce the operating range. It would be nice if I could run the remote control from 3v as the battery compartment of the case I'm planning to use will accommodate 2 AA cells nicely. An alternative might be a rechargeable Li-Ion battery.

Have to say, it'll be very interesting to see how low I can get the power consumption as this might not be the only project that could benefit from this approach. I can also see applications for the wireless link using these RF modules and ATmega328 chip where the power is not limited. There's a lot of components and pins etc. that are not really required on the Arduino modules. eg. the Uno and Mega models are only really wanted for use with shields or breadboarding (though the extra I/O facilities of the Mega can be useful). That's why I've been using the Nano version for some projects. But these are still expensive compared with the bare ATmega328 chip plus a couple of external components.

When I was doing the yesyes Philips webcam LX mod I bought a packet of 5 USB-TTL converters for a tenner and used one as I recall. One of the other 4 will be fine for connecting to the ATmega for uploading the sketch and testing.

[Gina]

I've ordered a couple of 3.7v Li-Ion batteries - one in use and one charging/charged as spare. http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=310658238412

These are rated at 3AH with a very slow self discharge and at 3.2 - 3.7v should be alright for running both the ATmega328 and RF module. I think one of these should last quite a long time per charge.

Example :- If I get the average current down to 1mA it should last 3000 hours per charge = 3000/24 = 125 days ie. 4 months or so. That would be quite acceptable.

[Gina]

Here is a variation on the relay system for controlling the camera motors. This shows the servo motor control as above and also a DC motor control where a voltage of either polarity is used to control the direction. The "Left" signal will turn the camera left and "Right" will turn it right.

[drhemlock2]

cool gina hope tim gets better

doc

[Gina]

Thank you doc