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opticalpath

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opticalpath last won the day on April 7 2016

opticalpath had the most liked content!

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About opticalpath

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  1. Great to see these wonderful images, and I'm looking forward to seeing your rendition, Olly! I didn't find much detail in the OIII when I did this a while back. This was 15 x 1800s OIII, binned 2x2. Using just the NB for nebula colour, I found it hard to get the balance of blue/ green and brown tones .... and concluded that a LOT of RGB would probably be a better starting point to get the right colour balance. Adrian
  2. That worked beautifully, Sara .... great result! You described the workflow as 'simple'. I think maybe what you mean is that you've mastered it and now it seems straightforward to you; the rest of us just wonder at it! Adrian
  3. Another beauty, Sara. Great to see it at this resolution. Well done! Adrian
  4. Another bit of bi-colour magic, Sara; how you get so much out of two filters I'll never know! It's very atmospheric with the dark shadow areas and contrasting 3D-like pillars - a great result! Adrian
  5. I echo everyone's comments, Chris: a beautifully detailed image and just amazing for the short exposure time. Adrian
  6. I'm sorry you had such a bad experience with your Moonlite, Olly. I must say I'm pretty happy with mine. It's carrying quite a heavy QSI camera package and gives repeatable, slip-free focusing with my DIY stepper motor belt drive. When I set it up at the beginning, it did need some adjustment of the tension screw - enough to lift the imaging train (plus a little extra weight for contingency) vertically without any slip, but not so much as to stall the motor drive. That was quite a long time ago and I haven't had to touch it since; it just seems to work every time and I don't have to think about it. The digital focus position moves a little as expected with temperature changes but otherwise seems rock solid. In fairness, with my (Mak-) Newtonian focus position, in practice the focuser is not often required do anything approaching a vertical lift, so it's not tested so severely in that respect as it would be in a refractor. I don't think anyone would ever go wrong by choosing a Feathertouch focuser, but I thought it was only fair to report one positive experience with a Moonlite. Adrian
  7. Whew ... this is a bit special, Sara! Wonderful just as it stands in mono ...... but I can't wait to see what you do with bi-/tri-colour too. Adrian
  8. GULP! Inspiring stuff, Ollie. Soo much to see .... and I really like the subtle colour treatment. Adrian
  9. It's a beautiful image, Sara! One of my favourite objects. Super job on the processing: the detail in the dust lane is wonderful and I especially like how you've controlled the sharpening: startling detail in the dust but a softer smooth glow surrounding it. This is nit-picking, but I would say your star colour is a tad warm. Some white stars look a bit yellow to me, and in this field to the right of the galaxy there is actually a very blue star (c. index -0.27), that is not really showing its colour. Adrian
  10. Just catching up and saw this. Whooo, that is something, Sara - so much detail at this scale! Beautifully done. Much as I love it in mono ..... can't wait to see the bi-colour version. Will you merge in some RGB for the stars or stay NB-synthetic? (6.5 hours per night in June . There's latitude for you!) Adrian
  11. That's a remarkable result with a modest set up and in such difficult conditions. Really well done! Adrian
  12. I might have confused things by referring to 'studs'; I didn't mean threaded-rod type studs. I just meant that the base plate of my mount has three integral very slightly (few mm) raised 'bumps' on the underside. They just ensure that the mount base makes positive 3-point contact with the pier top when the mount is bolted down. The idea of shimming was to completely eliminate any threaded support legs, relying only on the clamp-down mounting bolts and shimming the mounting feet, so keeping the gap between mount base and pier top to only a few mm. Adrian
  13. If you're concerned to get the mount level (and I quite agree it's not essential) the simplest way I found is to put fixed spacers between the base plate of the mount and the top plate of the pier. The flat underside of my mount has three slightly raised studs 120 degrees apart that are the only points of weight-bearing contact between mount and pier top plate - I suspect other mounts may be similar. My pier top-plate is not quite level (in fact it's not quite flat!) but it was dead easy to make up a few thin metal shims to place under the contact points to make the base of the mount level - permanently. Adrian
  14. Wow, what a field of view ..... great work! Adrian
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