camera dramarama

[TiffsAndAstro]

1 hour ago, Elp said:

The 585 will be restrictive due to its 16:9 aspect ratio, it's one of the reasons I let my 485 go (other reason being it didn't well match my other 3:2 cameras so combining data would have had to conform to the 485s FOV). With it you do however have better framing options if using shorter FL camera lenses.

the next cheapest option is a square 533 sensor and i think there are only cooled versions of it. probably twice what a non cooled 585 would cost me. right now im not keen on the square aspect ratio it reminds me of poor quality 1980s television too much. ill start looking at people's images with it see if i like it more. i could a more sciencey hubbly look to it i guess.

looking again at the horsehead nebula above with fresh eyes this morning, the 585 does possibly appear a bit 'claustrophobic'. 

[Vroobel]

OK, I'll not try to encourage you anymore. 😂

[Elp]

If you haven't got another camera to match data to the 533 is fine and likely the one I'd recommend as a first camera. The square sensor is a non issue, in fact it is the best shape to make commercially easily in the absence of circular sensors to fit the illuminated circle maximising area. It is also less likely you'd need to rotate the camera too, even vignetting also.

Edited June 12 by Elp

[bosun21]

The 533 would be a better choice over the 585 for AP, but if you want to include planetary imaging to any degree then the 585 wins hands down.

[TiffsAndAstro]

2 hours ago, Vroobel said:

OK, I'll not try to encourage you anymore. 😂

i've had nothing but encouragement from you and everyone else on this wonderful website. its impossible for me to express how much i appreciate it and how its responsible for me going from

to this 

in less than four months. and on a tight budget. 

 

Edited June 12 by TiffsAndAstro

[TiffsAndAstro]

1 hour ago, bosun21 said:

The 533 would be a better choice over the 585 for AP, but if you want to include planetary imaging to any degree then the 585 wins hands down.

not really interested in planetary but i've seen some nice results so it would be nice as an option. but nebula and big galaxies is pretty much all im after for now

[TiffsAndAstro]

2 hours ago, Elp said:

If you haven't got another camera to match data to the 533 is fine and likely the one I'd recommend as a first camera. The square sensor is a non issue, in fact it is the best shape to make commercially easily in the absence of circular sensors to fit the illuminated circle maximising area. It is also less likely you'd need to rotate the camera too, even vignetting also.

yeah i was having similar thoughts. i have a few jours left of my 1/4 day off, today, so ill go watch some imagers using it on youtube.

  really haven't done any research on it because its not hip to be square put me off. but it does leave mosaics open as an option. i really want to take a nice image of m31 when it gets higher in the sky and its fits perfectly in my current fov but even with a 585 i'd need to do mosiacs anyhow to fit it in. 

i also got a few bolts and nuts so gonna try attaching my guide scope bracket to my dovetail and mounting it on ota rings first

[TiffsAndAstro]

1 hour ago, bosun21 said:

The 533 would be a better choice over the 585 for AP, but if you want to include planetary imaging to any degree then the 585 wins hands down.

533 doesn't seem to have a non cooled version and the zwo533mc pro is almost £900. 585 non cooled is my only option i think

[TiffsAndAstro]

also probably not from svbony, there advice seems dubious, but im hardly an expert so...they tell me to buy some rather random looking set of adapters from amazon that don't even seem to include an m68 for their camera rotator.

1. As for parcels to UK, we can provide the free customs clearance shipping method. So clients do not need to pay for extra vat or import taxes any more.

2. As for the items you may need, pls refer to the links below:

SV705CC-SV226 filter drawer  https://www.svbony.com/sv705c-color-planetary-camera-imx585/#F9198J-W9184A

camera rotator  https://www.svbony.com/sv210-caa-camera-angle-adjuster-for-sv550-80f6/

uv-ir cut filter 1.25" https://www.svbony.com/uc-ir-cut-filters/#F9127A

3. As for the SV705C camera, since it is designed as a planetary camera, so currently, the adapter for it is not enough as the dso cooled camera. I am afraid you may need some other adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Starboosa-Telescope-T2-Extension-Cameras-eyepieces/dp/B08V923KS3/ref=pd_ci_mcx_pspc_dp_d_2_i_1?pd_rd_w=Rhgsb&content-id=amzn1.sym.568f3b6b-5aad-4bfd-98ee-d827f03151e4&pf_rd_p=568f3b6b-5aad-4bfd-98ee-d827f03151e4&pf_rd_r=SXG8S62K1YVEKPX58N2Q&pd_rd_wg=gYC2f&pd_rd_r=4dbb2126-2d9f-4c38-9a8a-b3a03b39baa6&pd_rd_i=B08V923KS3&th=1

i might email flo see what they say.

thanks again all for looking at another dumb thread of mine and for all the help.

[Elp]

I'd just continue using the dslr for now with a narrowband filter when doing emission nebula. The main difference you'll notice straight away is the size of the noise pattern as the dslr noise looks more blocky and present (from my modded 600d anyway), a cooled astro camera the noise is still there but it's finer like grains of sand, with an uncooled camera it's the same but the noise is brighter and theres more of it so more apparent.

But currently you're not imaging long enough per target. Do 10-20 hours at least and you'll see a difference. With a narrowband filter the target rich in ha/o3 will jump out of the darkness as it were.

[Elp]

26 minutes ago, Elp said:

But currently you're not imaging long enough per target. Do 10-20 hours at least and you'll see a difference. With a narrowband filter the target rich in ha/o3 will jump out of the darkness as it were.

To illustrate the point:

1 hour:

 

6.3 hours:

 

Images have had green noise removal applied, levels/historgram stretches, curves edit to get them to a similar look. Notice how the noise level is drastically reduced, and much finer detail is present, and because the noise level is less you'd be able to stretch the data more.

[TiffsAndAstro]

25 minutes ago, Elp said:

I'd just continue using the dslr for now with a narrowband filter when doing emission nebula. The main difference you'll notice straight away is the size of the noise pattern as the dslr noise looks more blocky and present (from my modded 600d anyway), a cooled astro camera the noise is still there but it's finer like grains of sand, with an uncooled camera it's the same but the noise is brighter and theres more of it so more apparent.

But currently you're not imaging long enough per target. Do 10-20 hours at least and you'll see a difference. With a narrowband filter the target rich in ha/o3 will jump out of the darkness as it were.

The only place I can fit a filter is, maybe, at the back end of the flattener. And it's tricky and inconvenient to put in and out.

I've had to rotate my OTA in it's rings to orient my dslr to upside down so that the guidescope doesn't almost hit the screw to lock the OTA dovetail which make it tricky to tighten.

I'm concerned it might slide off the Dec attachment thing.

Currently I'm on here summoning up courage to try my semi bodge job of removing them attaching finder clamp to my spare dovetail, then that dovetail onto the top of the OTA rings.

Also dubious about it then not working when it looks like sky might be clearing for first time in weeks. Maybe another day

[Elp]

You  know, if you want to test the noise difference, try your guide camera on a globular cluster using your mounts in built tracking after you've PA'd it. You'll be limited in exposure time as it's a small sensor so youll get amp glow/noise at the edge of the frame, but should be okay for 10-15s exposures through it. Youll also see how much more sensitive mono is.

[TiffsAndAstro]

1 minute ago, Elp said:

To illustrate the point:

1 hour:

 

6.3 hours:

 

Images have had green noise removal applied, levels/historgram stretches, curves edit to get them to a similar look. Notice how the noise level is drastically reduced, and much finer detail is present, and because the noise level is less you'd be able to stretch the data more.

I do realise total integration time is vital. But with no astro dark right now and maybe only 1130 to 2am being darkish it will take three clear evenings for me to get 6 or 7 hours data. That might mean 3 months

[Elp]

I did these mid June to mid July within the same season. Without the lextreme it'd take much longer.

Edited June 12 by Elp

[TiffsAndAstro]

Just now, Elp said:

You  know, if you want to test the noise difference, try your guide camera on a globular cluster using your mounts in built tracking after you've PA'd it. You'll be limited in exposure time as it's a small sensor so youll get amp glow/noise at the edge of the frame, but should be okay for 10-15s exposures through it. Youll also see how much more sensitive mono is.

I tried using it on the moon even mono it looked pretty nice. 

I really do believe you about time on target but as I've already rotated my camera it will be hard to add to my few existing projects.

Pinwheel galaxy is small enough in frame for it not to matter but not much else apart from medium galaxies, which my gear is hardly ideal for.

[Elp]

Maybe use the flattener without screwing it in? You'll find on long projects you have to rotate every so often to match. I've never done it personally as my main imagers are larger sensors so I usually crop.

Edited June 12 by Elp

[TiffsAndAstro]

3 minutes ago, Elp said:

I did these mid June to mid July within the same season.

I think so far in the last month I've taken 15 minutes of usable subs. Thank god I have cheap light easily quickly grabable gear ;(

[Elp]

1 minute ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

I think so far in the last month I've taken 15 minutes of usable subs. Thank god I have cheap light easily quickly grabable gear ;(

This year has been an almost carbon copy of 2023, totally unsettled Feb until June, here's hoping it'll clear up soon. I've got more data to add to a project.

[TiffsAndAstro]

Just now, Elp said:

Maybe use the flattener without screwing it in?

Nah it felt a bit dubious using the nose piece held in by two screws no compression ring.

I did have a go loosening/turning the focus tube adapter and flattener about 3/4 of a rotation but then optical train felt floppy and probably puts stress on the threads

[TiffsAndAstro]

1 minute ago, Elp said:

This year has been an almost carbon copy of 2023, totally unsettled Feb until June, here's hoping it'll clear up soon. I've got more data to add to a project.

Hope so but no way of knowing. I think going forward I need to be able to go at 30minutes notice.

[TiffsAndAstro]

Sv605cc is £530 on their website. That's a boatload less than zwo version.

Might be doable maybe a get a rotator that doesn't use m68 elsewhere.

This is a multiple pita

[Elp]

Sometimes SVbony do massive discounts on Amazon so worth keeping a look out.

[PhilB61]

I see that Astronomiser UK still advertise astro modding the 600D for £95 which includes return postage. I don't have any experience of them or know if the site is still current but they certainly had good comments regarding their modding services as far back as 2014 on this forum, there contact details are on the website. Might be a good intermediate step whilst you gather more funds to get a cooled astro camera in the future?

[Vroobel]

7 minutes ago, PhilB61 said:

I see that Astronomiser UK still advertise astro modding the 600D for £95 which includes return postage. I don't have any experience of them or know if the site is still current but they certainly had good comments regarding their modding services as far back as 2014 on this forum, there contact details are on the website. Might be a good intermediate step whilst you gather more funds to get a cooled astro camera in the future?

 

I shouldn't do it... 🤫

My Canon 6D was modified there and I'm happy with it.