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EQ6-R Pro tweaks


Ryachu

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A few mods that might help with other mounts as well.

 

Clutch bolts:

To eliminate movement when tightening the RA or DEC clutch a 6.5mm hole was drilled in the end of each bolt and a
 1/4" ball bearing added. This decouples the friction of the clutch pad from the screw tightening torque. Clamping of each axis is more positive and requires only light finger pressure.

clutch_bolts.thumb.JPG.070d3bea9ea3d57e95879cdf7f2d8702.JPG

 

Finder Scope Mounting :

A dimple was drilled where the retaining screw anchors the foot. This stops the scope dropping out on my toes if not tightened enough. 😬

finder_scope_dimple.thumb.JPG.bd7eaed4bfc73da4f59184c8fd42115f.JPG

 

Polar Scope Right Angle Viewer :

An adapter was turned up in a lathe to fit a Canon Finder B ( £15 off eBay ). It was then superglued at a slight, but annoying angle.🫤

polar_scope_angle_adapter.thumb.JPG.475fce92d1b2f604794147eddffbc321.JPG

Worm Bearing Tool :

Hacksaw cut across a piece of 22mm plumbing pipe and solder a cross piece to engage the slots on the retaining rings.

Should last for a few adjustments.

worm_bearing_tool.thumb.JPG.a09ca7bbdea083b3c13830f65d3374f5.JPG

 

Polar Scope Reticule :

The first ring on the polar scope screws on and sets the clearance for the circular slide rule. The second ring rides on
 the first and has an inscribed line. Slacken the grub screw ( ~ 1mm ) on the second ring and rotate so the line

coincides with the "0" on the reticule "clock". This make it easy to swing the RA axis and get the "0" on the reticule at the top

before aligning to the clock value given by the handset.

polar_scope.thumb.JPG.a63ce2fbc7dc5296f0c2ea1d7137f3ed.JPG

 

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Thanks for that.  All useful ideas and info. Especially the clutch mod.

 

Just bought an eq6r pro and it’s a hefty piece of kit and all I need now is for the clouds to clear! Two or three things that really rile me, though - even though they’re not that important in the overall scheme of things:

 

1) how much effort would it take in the factory to set the polar scope reticule with 12 at the top - just for the appearance. At the same time, set the elevation gauge to read true!

 

2) why have a bubble level if it isn’t vaguely accurate.

As I use my iPhone to set an initial level and elevation when setting up, neither are a problem but how much trouble would it be on a €1650 mount?

Edited by JC France
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I'm wondering now if just rounding off the ends of the bolts with a file would have the same effect.

I agree with the bubble level being way out of whack, I guess it is not the highest paid job on the shop floor. Then again, if the polar axis is aligned does the mount need to be level ?

 

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