AZ100 Clutch and Brake

[Manoj77]

My AZ100 arrives in a few days and I have been reading the manual. I see that each axis has a clutch and a brake. When would the clutch be used and when would the brake be used? I have never used a mount with both a brake and a clutch on each axis so I am trying to understand what appears to to be a redundancy, but obviously isn’t.

Thanks!

[Split Zygote2]

Hello, sorry for the late reply but have only just seen your post. I guess you have seen the picture below but just in case...

The AZ100 (I have one) only has one lock and it is the vertical knob to the right and on top of the horizontal altitude axis labelled altitude lock below. The clutches are the similarly lobe shaped knobs -  the altitude clutch rotates with the mount the azimuth does not.

However you will see other smaller knobs in the picture called damping adjusters mounted orthogonally to the altitude lock there are two pairs of these one for each axis one on the back and one on the front of the mount and it may be that you are mistaking these for locks.

How do they all function? Well first the altitude lock does not lock the altitude axis it brakes it to the extent that you tighten it up. Done up as hard as possible by hand it will facilitate changing from a heavy eyepiece to a lighter one and then you then rebalance the scope. It will not in my experience lock the axis completely say when changing from bino viewers to a light eyepiece and the scope will likely do a nosedive as both the lock and and the clutches slip. So care must be exercised when using this lock as it may suddenly give. After its use typically when changing eyepieces it should be disengaged before using the mount. 

The damping adjusters are independent of the clutches and they enable you to dial out any backlash in the system so that when you centre an object and let go of the scope or slo-mo wheels  it stays where you left it and the object doesn't drift up or down or left to right. These are used only when using the slo-mo cables and are generally done up equally back and front. They  work best when the scope is well balanced but will help with a slight imbalance - essentially another measure of control.

You can use the mount in 3 modes

1. Everything almost loosened off and you then push it around the sky. Tends to blow around in the breeze!

2. With the  clutches a little tighter; you can either push the scope around and/or use the slo-mo having found the sweet spot where the clutches will slip but will also hold enough for the slo-mo gears to turn the axes

3. Finally you can use tighter clutches that you loosen off to acquire targets and then tighten up rather more than in number 2 and then exclusively use the slo-mo.You would do this if the scope was not balanced say when using binoviewers at high altitude targets.

Note it is not such a good idea to tighten the clutches right up and then push the scope by hand as there is then a real danger of damaging the worm and worm gear. The mount should be operated only with the slo-mo controls to track if the clutches are tightened right up - making sure to loosen them off before slewing around the sky to a different target.

I generally go with option number 2 and I do not use the slo-mo all that much. Enjoy your mount I have spent a lot on other alt az mounts and the AZ100 is by far superior to most.

I note from the time of your post that you are either very dedicated or in a different time zone.

Hope that the above will help you. I shall post another link to 3rd axis balancing but if I go off hunting this post will have doubtless escaped when I return! 

Edited October 2, 2022 by Split Zygote2
Additional info

[Split Zygote2]

If you scroll down to the bottom of the page you will see my post there and also some follow ideas top of the next page.

[Manoj77]

9 hours ago, Split Zygote2 said:

Hello, sorry for the late reply but have only just seen your post. I guess you have seen the picture below but just in case...

The AZ100 (I have one) only has one lock and it is the vertical knob to the right and on top of the horizontal altitude axis labelled altitude lock below. The clutches are the similarly lobe shaped knobs -  the altitude clutch rotates with the mount the azimuth does not.

However you will see other smaller knobs in the picture called damping adjusters mounted orthogonally to the altitude lock there are two pairs of these one for each axis one on the back and one on the front of the mount and it may be that you are mistaking these for locks.

How do they all function? Well first the altitude lock does not lock the altitude axis it brakes it to the extent that you tighten it up. Done up as hard as possible by hand it will facilitate changing from a heavy eyepiece to a lighter one and then you then rebalance the scope. It will not in my experience lock the axis completely say when changing from bino viewers to a light eyepiece and the scope will likely do a nosedive as both the lock and and the clutches slip. So care must be exercised when using this lock as it may suddenly give. After its use typically when changing eyepieces it should be disengaged before using the mount. 

The damping adjusters are independent of the clutches and they enable you to dial out any backlash in the system so that when you centre an object and let go of the scope or slo-mo wheels  it stays where you left it and the object doesn't drift up or down or left to right. These are used only when using the slo-mo cables and are generally done up equally back and front. They  work best when the scope is well balanced but will help with a slight imbalance - essentially another measure of control.

You can use the mount in 3 modes

1. Everything almost loosened off and you then push it around the sky. Tends to blow around in the breeze!

2. With the  clutches a little tighter; you can either push the scope around and/or use the slo-mo having found the sweet spot where the clutches will slip but will also hold enough for the slo-mo gears to turn the axes

3. Finally you can use tighter clutches that you loosen off to acquire targets and then tighten up rather more than in number 2 and then exclusively use the slo-mo.You would do this if the scope was not balanced say when using binoviewers at high altitude targets.

Note it is not such a good idea to tighten the clutches right up and then push the scope by hand as there is then a real danger of damaging the worm and worm gear. The mount should be operated only with the slo-mo controls to track if the clutches are tightened right up - making sure to loosen them off before slewing around the sky to a different target.

I generally go with option number 2 and I do not use the slo-mo all that much. Enjoy your mount I have spent a lot on other alt az mounts and the AZ100 is by far superior to most.

 

I note from the time of your post that you are either very dedicated or in a different time zone.

Hope that the above will help you. I shall post another link to 3rd axis balancing but if I go off hunting this post will have doubtless escaped when I return! 

Thank you for the detailed reply.  I used the scope and mount last night and I was amazed how intuitive it is.  It really is a work of art   and his team at Rowan were incredibly helpful and responsive throughout my decision making and ordering process.

I notice that he one thing I have to do is firm up the worm gear as per the instructions in the manual.  I notice a bit of slack and delay before the worm gear  engages when using the slow motion controls, so I assume I need to tighten it?

[Split Zygote2]

Maybe but I would live with it a little  it might be that adjusting the damper control and re balancing the scope helps. I adjusted the mesh of the worms when I first got mine but I left in about a 1/12th of a turn of free play when changing direction as the gearing reverses.