Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

xBox Web Cam Advice


Langy

Recommended Posts

Got the xBox Web Cam today and modded it for use on the telescope.

Using Sharp Cap 2 I used settings very similar to below. Focusing with the wind picking up and cloud coming and going wasn't easy as well as being setup on decking. I think I reasonably got it in focus but need to probably change some of the settings.

Oh and as you can see from the first image I had to do a quick DIY fix until I can get some tube to mount it in.

post-34707-0-26722400-1391223922_thumb.j

Now as far as I can tell the camera was mounted pretty well and central, it may have been off which has also caused some extra loss.

Shar Cap 2 Approx Settings were similar to these

Frame Divisor=1
Resolution=960x720
Frame Rate (fps)=7.50
Colour Space / Compression=MJPG
Exposure=-4
Brightness=50
Contrast=18
Hue=0
Saturation=25
Sharpness=0
Gamma=229
WhiteBalance=5511
BacklightCompensation=0
Gain=0

I got these setting from searching the forums to use as a start. I know that they will be different for every scope and conditions but used them as a starter.

As Jupiter passed across most of the frame it was very similar to this.

post-34707-0-49581900-1391223765.jpg

However when it got to the bottom right of the frame is finally started showing details as here.

post-34707-0-75235600-1391223912.jpg

Any advice on getting some better results will be most appreciated.

Think I better finally go to bed now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can buy adapters that will screw in to the original lens mounting, this will ensure that it should be central.

My first thoughts would be that having it mounted in the barlow isn't helping. Yes it's true that eventually you will want a barlow to help get a slightly larger image, it can be difficult to get focus, and if it is the stock barlow that you are trying to use, they are generally pretty poor. Its worth investing in a better one for imaging.

The actual sharpcap settings can vary depending on equipment and seeing conditions. As a general rule of thumb though, make sure you do not have anything set to auto, and I use YUY for the compression not MJPG. Also, did you remove the IR filter? It may be getting swamped, although the stock filter isn't good for astro, you will need to replace it. The webcam adapter I got for my camera came with the IR filter fitted, so perhaps another reason to invest in one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

None of the settings were on Auto, I did make sure of that.

I thought I needed to use the Barlows otherwise the distance in the EP and focusing would be impossible?

The Barlows I bought were from Scopes and Skies which was this one http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/antares/barlow/astrophotography/t-thread.html

I gave them a call before I bought and they said that even though these were a budget one at £29.99 they were actually a better quality than budget should actually be.

I originally had some 1.25" pipe from work which I had cut at various lengths to increase the image size, but unfortunately the pipe was about 1-2mm too wide to fit. I had planned to visit B&Q today to go find something else as I wanted to try and create something that would fit into different lengths. Initial thought was to find some tube that fitted the EP holder and then find another tube slightly smaller that would fit inside snugly which could be fixed on the webcam allowing the webcam to then be placed in any length tube that was cut.

As I said, last night was my first trial and I didn't expect to get perfect results. The main problems I faced were the wind, perched on wobbly decking (not too much choice on this one), no MD so constantly have to manually track the image only being on the screen for less than 30 seconds and not having the laptop right next to me meaning I have to move away from the scope every time. It was the first go at this so I will have a better go next time.

I know I could very well use and maybe do with a MD, but at the moment I don't want to spend that money unless I'm going to get some imaging results, when I'm tracking Jupiter manually by just looking through the EP it all adds to the enjoyment, so a MD would only be a great benefit to me for imaging.

I may well visit the loft today to go find one of the many 35mm film cannisters I have up there (somewhere), but would rather create something where the focal length can easily be changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A barlow is needed, however I have found it fan be difficult to find the object without first going:

25mm eye piece

10mm eye piece

7mm eye piece

xbox cam

Xbox cam with barlow

That way I can make sure the image is always centralled. Also remember that the barlow itself has a lens in so being taped straight to the camera like that it may not be at a point where the image will focus correctly on the chip. Please bear in mind, I am relatively new to all this myself, so I'm just saying whats worked for me so far.

It may be possible to take your original supplied barlow and remove the lenses from it to create an extension, this can then be placed straight in the focuser or your new barlow.

As for sharpcap settings, change the codec to yuy2 and try reducing the exposure. You should be able to up the frame rate a bit as well, believe me I know how much trial and error it takes to get an image to appear, so hats off for trying it without a motor drive! How about trying it on a slightly easier target and go for the moon? Its a big bright target so ideal to get to grips with using the camera and sharpcap. Heres some shots i took in another thread:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/204707-xbox-livecam/?hl=%2Bxbox+%2Bcam#entry2174754

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, I would have been on the moon straight away but we don't have it in our skies during the evening at the moment, so Jupiter is the obvious choice.

Last night I did focus and center with the 20mm lens first, then went to the webcam which getting it in frame wasn't too bad even with it going behind clouds it didn't take too much adjustment.

I only have the one Barlows which I bought and that does have the lens which can be unscrewed from below. Today in daylight I used the scope from indoors to run some more tests and the cam works fine with and without the Barlows, so hopefully next time I get setup outside I can have another proper go. Without the Barlows with the cam straighjt in the EP holder I'm getting a slightly larger image than my 20mm lens.

That's about the only success today as I went to B&Q and could find nothing to use as a holder for the cam. The best I could have got would be a table leg which I would of had to cut up. To top that the bolts I bought to repair a door are also too wide. Then I went up in the loft through my old darkroom boxes to find some 35mm film canisters and when I got downstairs to only find that these are also too wide to fit the EP holder. So I thing I'm going to use my original tubes that I got from work and cut slits down the bottom end so that it can be squeezed in a few mm. Then wrap that with insulation take to not make any damage to the inside of the EP holder. This will have to wait until Monday at work as it's easier to do the job there than at home.

So for now if we get some more clear skies over the weekend it's back to the masking tape, which surprisingly works very well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.