DSLR to scope..

[Mansnake]

OK so i know with DSLR astro imaging i'm going to need an T Ring. i just want to clarify how it works etc...

The T ring screws to the body of the camera creating a thread to attach the camera to the scope ?

How would using a zoom lens work with the camera etc..

sorry about the newb question but i just want to make sure iv'e got all bases covered

cheers guys !

[skyquest1028]

I'm using a Canon G11 and here is a link to my setup. I'm a two months in complete noob but I have spent countless hours recently trying to connect my Canon G11 to my 8 inch Dob. Here is a link to my flickr account with pictures of the pieces needed to attach the Canon G11 to my scope.

Flickr: skyquest1028's Photostream

I had to order an additional piece. It's an 1.25 eye piece tube to 58mm. What this piece solves is attaching the camera with the 58mm filter adapter over my eye piece. Since the Canon's G11 lens does not come off, you have to use the eye piece to focus in on object. I used to use a piece of pvc plastic pipe and a metal bracket to latch my camera on to the eye piece. It was a pain to setup and get in the exact position every time.

So for my camera I needed a 58mm filter adapter. I then need a step down ring 58mm to 1.25 T-adapter. Be careful with the step down ring as you can get the wrong one. Make sure it says 58mm filter step down ring. There is a step down 58mm ring that doesn't have 58mm threading. I then needed a 1.25 T-adapter with barlow lens. Finally I needed the 1.25 -tadapter tube to hold the entire assembly on to the eye piece.

I tried every way possible to get my camera to focus without the eye piece. I even took out the 1.25 eye piece holder on the telescope and held the camera as close to the secondary mirror as possible but it still would not focus. I'll post some new pictures of my setup soon as it comes in.

Oh by the way, you might be better off using the Camera holders that you can by off amazon and ebay. I forget the names of them. Basically they hold your camera to the eye piece. You might be better off starting with that then to try and buy all of these pieces right now.

Good Luck!

[malc-c]

Lewis, it depends on the scope. Something like the Skywatcher 200P has a 2" focuser, into which a 2" to 1.25" reducer is attached. This reducer is actually in two halves, and by unscrewing the 1.25" barrel the T ring screws directly to the 2" part of the reducer to allow direct connection of the camera body to the scope.

[Mansnake]

Im getting a SW150P i think that can use 2" EP's right ?

How would i achieve higher mag's once the camera is attached ? can you screw a barlow onto the camera before putting it in the EP?

[malc-c]

Connecting the camera to the scope direct with a T ring means that you are using the camera at prime focus, so there are no eyepieces used. Some eyepieces permit the attaching of a camera body so the image from the eyepiece is projected onto the sensor, but these are not your typical eyepieces that come with the 150p. It's also worth searching the forum, or confirming with the retailer that the 150P supports direct dslr as I beleive some models can't focus inwards enough to get a sharp image at prime focus

[Mansnake]

On FLO's website one of the listed details for the SW150P is Direct SLR camera connection, i take it that what you mean ?

Does that mean i will be able to achieve prime focus using the DSLR ?

Cheers for all your info !

[David JM]

I've just started using a DSLR on a NexStar 4SE.

The camera can attach to the back of the scope via a special adaptor and T ring [the 4SE eyeliece is at 90 deg to the light path of the tube] or replace the eyepiece with the camera. It takes a lot of refocusing from eyepiece to camera, I will have to try moving the camera up a bit on the eyepiece to see if I can get a better focus that way.

When you attach a body to the scope you are effectively using a very big lens. If you are using a camera and lens then focusing may be a problem as the object you are trying to focus on may not be picked up by the autofocus system as these normally rely on edges with high contrast. If possible focus on the limb of the moon and lock the focus or use full manual focus.