Sorry, another collimation question.

[nowayjose256]

Thought I'd set the collimation my 200p this morning.

I found instructions from astrobaby on how to do it manually.

Astro Babys Guide to Collimation

I followed this religiously, well as best as I could.

Centered the secondary, ensured the primary clips all looked the same, etc.

I then checked it with my skywatcher laser collimator and was surprised how far off something was.

It was then I noticed how flimsy the laser was both in construction and with how much it moved in the focuser.

Just rotating it in the focuser caused the dot on the primary to move all over the place.

Of course it could be the focuser at fault.

What I'm really asking is, should I go with my manual set up or persevere with the laser?

Thanks.

[Tinker1947]

I would get a Cheshire, there accurate, don't require any batteries...

First Light Optics - Cheshire Collimating Eyepiece

[umadog]

You have correctly noticed that your laser collimator is useless in its current form. Perhaps a 2" to 1.25" centering adaptor (with a compression ring) will allow you to use the laser. On the other hand, I wouldn't trust it. A Cheshire/sight tube (i.e. a combination tool) will probably work better.

[nowayjose256]

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like the Chesire is the thing.

Please forgive my ignorance but I guess that's not a tool to use in the dark before a viewing session.

[Hungovergraham]

I've got a baader lasercolli mk III and find it very easy to use bit more money but worth it I think

[umadog]

No, you can use a Cheshire in the dark quite happily. I do it all the time with the clip-on LED from Catseye (CATSEYE Collimation Main Page Frameset File).

There's nothing wrong with a good laser. You just need to be aware of a few things. Firstly, it needs to be collimated. If you rotate it in the focuser and the point moves on the primary then it's not collimated. Secondly, for adjusting primary tilt it's much better not to use the return beam but to barlow the laser (look up "barlowed laser collimation" on Google). Thirdly, the laser will only allow you to adjust the tilt of the primary and secondary mirrors. It won't allow you to centre the secondary in the focuser and to round it. A sight-tube makes this fairly easy and for this reason you will always want to supplement a laser with a Cheshire/sight-tube combination tool. Luckily, rounding the secondary isn't something you need to do often. At a pinch you can use a "collimation cap" for rounding the secondary. If the collimation cap has a silvered inside surface then you can also use it for adjusting the primary tilt.