Jump to content

Improved binocular mount


Recommended Posts

I have a pair of Celestron 15 x 70 binos, currently mounted on a L mount to a Velbon D-600 tripod (my old camera tripod).

Given my viewing location in the garden I have to view standing up, and find that with my current configuration I'm fairly comfortable viewing lower in the sky but when I tilt the mount back I soon end up with trembling thighs!

The main column is pretty much fully extended to give me a comfortable viewing position, and with that comes some instability.

I have been looking at the ScopeTeknix Zodiac ST90 counterbalance binocular mounting. It looks like it will give some extra height, but will it improve or reduce stability?

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use this tripod with my Celestrons:

Slick 700DX legs

PRO700DX-LEG.jpg

It is light and compact when folded, but extends to 1.78m and is very solid. I combine it with this joystick head:

Joystick Head - Joystick | Manfrotto

636c9ad7443e6b3ef2f21754a7562e4c.jpg?

Together they give enough extension to reach the zenith standing up, and the joystick head will happily hold the binocs pointing straight up. Its not the cheapest setup but it is a joy to use. Here it is at full extension:

5675448376_4005c08bcd_b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point, I'm still using the mount that came with them. Bristol Cameras is just around the corner from work so I'll pop up there and source a metal mount.

I had a look at removing the head from my Velbon, but it's not going to be an easy job. Love the idea of the joystick head, but may have to hold off if it means a new tripod as well.

Thanks for sharing your setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point, I'm still using the mount that came with them. Bristol Cameras is just around the corner from work so I'll pop up there and source a metal mount.

I had a look at removing the head from my Velbon, but it's not going to be an easy job. Love the idea of the joystick head, but may have to hold off if it means a new tripod as well.

Thanks for sharing your setup.

Are you sure? Most heads come off, but they're often so tightly screwed in that it feels like they won't.

PS there are cheaper joystick heads around, I've seen them for around £60 and I get the feeling they're basically Manfrotto clones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Logic says that the head should come off, I can see the twist grip just under the pan plate. The issue is the gap between the top of the tripod and the head is not wide enough to be able to get a grip.

I've tried a plumbers wrench, but even that won't take a good hold!

Something for me to keep working on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are several different issues involved with comfortable binocular viewing. In no particular order:

  1. For objects above about 45*, if you don't want neck ache, you need something that enables you not to have to tilt your head back.
  2. If you use a tripod without something that holds the binocular away from the tripod, sooner or later your legs and the tripod's will compete for the same space.
  3. Whatever you use will need to have easy height (and, if you are seated, lateral) adjustment unless the centre of rotation of the binocular is the same as the centre of rotation of your head.
  4. The turning moment on a traditional tripod head increases as the angle you are observing at increases.

Some solutions:

  • Mirror mounts (I loathe them, but many like them) effectively solve or eliminate all of the issues above, but introduce new ones, like a reversed sky view, dewing, and difficulty in locating objects (unless you use a green laser or reflex finder).
  • A Star-chair solves all of the above, but introduces issues of storage, transport -- oh, and expense!:D.
  • Many DIY bino-chairs solve all of the above issues.
  • A reclining observing position solves #1 above.
  • Angled eyepieces solve issue #1 above.
  • Tripods are useful for supporting anything you use in #2 above (e.g. a parallelogram mount or a lateral extension arm). Ideally this will be counter-balanced, or the tripod will be supporting a cantilevered load and there is a risk of tipping.
  • An adjustable centre post on the tripod solves #3.
  • Parallelogram mounts solve #2 and #3 (and, if it is properly designed, #4).

IMO there is a gap in the market for a spring-counterbalanced system (a bit like an angle-poise lamp) that is mounted rigidly on the top bar of a garden recliner and behaves like an adjustable version of the mounting arm of the Star-chair.

Until I get around to making it, my preferred solutions are:

  • Up to 10x50: hand-held +recliner
  • 15x70 straight-through: recliner + monopod + trigger-grip ball-head OR recliner + parallelogram
  • 100mm or larger: angled eyepieces + parallelogram.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are several different issues involved with comfortable binocular viewing. In no particular order:
  1. For objects above about 45*, if you don't want neck ache, you need something that enables you not to have to tilt your head back.
  2. If you use a tripod without something that holds the binocular away from the tripod, sooner or later your legs and the tripod's will compete for the same space.
  3. Whatever you use will need to have easy height (and, if you are seated, lateral) adjustment unless the centre of rotation of the binocular is the same as the centre of rotation of your head.
  4. The turning moment on a traditional tripod head increases as the angle you are observing at increases.

Some solutions:

  • Mirror mounts (I loathe them, but many like them) effectively solve or eliminate all of the issues above, but introduce new ones, like a reversed sky view, dewing, and difficulty in locating objects (unless you use a green laser or reflex finder).
  • A Star-chair solves all of the above, but introduces issues of storage, transport -- oh, and expense!:D.
  • Many DIY bino-chairs solve all of the above issues.
  • A reclining observing position solves #1 above.
  • Angled eyepieces solve issue #1 above.
  • Tripods are useful for supporting anything you use in #2 above (e.g. a parallelogram mount or a lateral extension arm). Ideally this will be counter-balanced, or the tripod will be supporting a cantilevered load and there is a risk of tipping.
  • An adjustable centre post on the tripod solves #3.
  • Parallelogram mounts solve #2 and #3 (and, if it is properly designed, #4).

IMO there is a gap in the market for a spring-counterbalanced system (a bit like an angle-poise lamp) that is mounted rigidly on the top bar of a garden recliner and behaves like an adjustable version of the mounting arm of the Star-chair.

Until I get around to making it, my preferred solutions are:

  • Up to 10x50: hand-held +recliner
  • 15x70 straight-through: recliner + monopod + trigger-grip ball-head OR recliner + parallelogram
  • 100mm or larger: angled eyepieces + parallelogram.

I don't like the idea of the mirror mount. If I wanted to look down at stuff I would have bought a microscope :)

My natural lazy inclination would agree with you on the recliner, unfortunately with a small viewing area surrounded by big fences it wouldn't leave me with much sky!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I invested in a joystick head and a new metal L mount. The good news is that the viewing is much more stable, but still a little short for my legs!

I'll wait until I get paid again and then invest in a new tripod to get me the extra height I want.

Back outside now, Orion is waiting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.