Soldering Tips

[focaldepth]

I still use an old, very fine 60/40 from many years ago. It will probably see me out. Although I have notice the flux does spatter more then newer brands. Perhaps I need a new reel after all.

They say the lead can affect brain development but I have never noticed any parsnips.

[ollypenrice]

I bow to Derek's greater professonal expertise but I did a lot of soldering at one time and was always taught to tin both components first, bring them together, then heat them to remelt the tinning. I always find a separate flux essential and far more effective though I use cored solder as well. This was more on small rods and bars then electronics though.

My Weller is going well(er) after 43 years, I have just realized. I'm quite impressed by that!

Olly

[rfdesigner]

Olly

That is indeed a completely valid technique, especially appropriate for larger pieces.

I built up a kit steam engine (real live steamer) a couple of years ago and that is the exact technique I used. I was told it was called sweating, great for soldering two plates together.

Generally most electronic components come ready tinned, but boards these days are often gold coated (just an atom or so thick) but used to be tinned as well. The general advantage is prevention of oxides prior to soldering.. but strictly this is sweating.

derek

[Psychobilly]

You need to make sure the soldering iron tip is "wet" as well to efficiently heat the joint to be soldered you soon get into a rythm... the problem is the temps needed to get decent joints with lead free can caused pad damage on the pcb laminates if you spend too much time trying to get the joint right...

I had to buy another soldering station the other day as you can no longer get replacement elements my Pace One which cost us £1200 back in 2001 full surface mount rework with vac tools the lot

Times are hard so bought a Xytronic solder/desolder station this time 100w pencil iron room temp to 420C in a couple of secs... and vacum pump driven desoldering iron... well impressed ...

The maplin bits loose there plating within a few hours ... used to go through an Iron and a couple of bits with each months build.. they were "disposable" ...

After 1000 Presets and 500 resisitors it's Rotary switches, and power devices/heatsinks to solder tomorrow - joyful joyful we are joyful...

Keeps me of the street the wolf from the door I suppose ...

Billy...

[rfdesigner]

Nice kit..

I've been trying to get our firm to shell out for a hot air system.. until we do we can't design in 0201s, in fact if we were still on lead we'd be using 0201 already.

Problem is we do R&D, not production, so we never have the best soldering kit. So we've got quite adept at replacing SAWs with a hot air gun from B&Q!.

[haitch]

So do you know when the tip has gone- does the end just disappear until it's too blunt to use or are there other symptoms?

[yesyes]

It will literally become less and less... The copper will react with oxygen and... yes... oxidise.. ;-)

The tip of the tip will become hollow-ish...

You WILL recognise it when it happens...

I bought some cheap ones once and I managed to go from new to totally useless in a day. I did a lot of soldering that day though...

[MisterBill]

Make sure the pads on any board you are going to solder are clean. Use a pencil eraser to rub ant dirt or film from the copper.

[sublime_mick]

soldered at the weekend for the first time - cheap maplin kit - should have read this thread first