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The collar is on the lens because it’s very front heavy. I don’t see how would the camera rotate? The camera can’t rotate unless lens does. Question is what screw do I need for the vixen dovetail hmm

Hi, I have a lens collar and want to mount it on swsa gti. I suppose I need a dovetail bar with some kind of screw? https://imgur.com/a/hohmBiQ

Hi, I want to connect ASI 585MC to Sigma 40mm F1.4 (L mount) Will any of these 2 adapters work? https://c7adapters.com/en/product/t2_-_l-mount/191 https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/adaptors-10/adapter-camera-bayonet-132/baader-wide-t-ring-for-leica-sigma-panasonic-l-mount-14687

Hi, Can't find any Bahtinov masks for this lens and I don't own a printer. I wonder if there is anyone who could print out one if I would provide the lens diameter? Of course will pay for it. Sometimes I feel like I'm focused but it's hard to tell on tiny display on the camera and then it turns out it could be better.

I want A5 or smaller but thanks for recommendation.

I have bought this instead from Wex, seems so much better. https://www.wexphotovideo.com/photolux-a5-led-ultra-slim-light-panel-1678004/ No dots, even bright light. If only we could have USB-c in all devices.

I've placed the sticker on top of current marker although I think it's a little bit off, but I guess I will live with it. https://imgur.com/a/BgDJkqJ Thanks a lot for your offer!

Hi, I've purchased a second hand Explore Scientific 16" telescope, already managed to do some mods to it etc. I've also imported Catseye collimation tools from USA, together with a new marker spot and a template for attaching it properly. Just cleaned the mirror twice and went on to try to attach the centre marker, and here issues arise. I cut out the template and when putting it on top of the mirror, it doesn't seem even. I have hard time telling anymore if the mirror isn't completely round and if the current marker spot is dead centre. I need to get that new sticker marker in the centre and it has to be spot on since it's a F4.5 scope, so low error tolerance here. It's also recommended to remove current marker spot, but I think it's etched and might be impossible to do. I wonder if anyone here has experience with this kind of stuff and could help me with this? I don't mind paying for it. I'm not good at this stuff and don't trust my shaky hands enough. 😂 I've started a thread on CN also: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/908268-confused-with-the-catseye-template-for-adding-centre-marker-spot/ I'm located near Bristol but don't mind driving a longer way, or perhaps there is some companies nearby dealing with mirrors? Thanks!

I think I will just replace it.

Just got the panel but I'm confused because it's not like my previous one where the whole thing was giving just white light. Here it's a lot of dots with the dark stuff around. Are you guys sure this is good for flats? 😃

I will get this one then. Any idea what else to use instead of a t-shirt? Maybe sticking few sheets of printer paper will do the job?

I think the idea of using tshirt or paper is to diffuse the light more and not make it dimmer. Overall asking for specific recommendations to buy something already tried by users. Want my panel to be even.

Someone in review mentioning " screen is dotty ". No issues with anything like that? And do you just put some white paper to diffuse it?

Hi, Looking for a good and cheap LED panel to use for flat frames taken with a lens and a miniature telescope. Has anyone anything worth recommendation?

Hi, I want to use these both with 1.25" UV/IR filter. I've heard I will need things like extensions and step up ring. I really have no clue what do I order EXACTLY to have it to work. Thanks in advance.

That’s why I am going to use this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/william-optics-2-to-125-rotolock-visual-back-adapter.html As for star collimation some people already told me you can’t fully trust it.

Yes this is a much better approach. I don’t know how people test it by rotating in a focuser as there is always some movement sideways. I will try the „V” method again, the problem with the Badeer one is it’s awful irregular shape.

And in case it loses collimation (the laser), can you collimate it easily? also afaik laser is used mostly to collimate primary? I have tried using a laser once and could easily make the laser hit the spot on primary and reflect back on secondary in same spot and show on the laser crosshair. So I am confused about it a little bit.

delete...

I remember seeing the opposite a couple of times on other forums. Hmmm It's important for me that it's easy to collimate the laser itself also.

And do you know a good laser that's also easy to collimate? I have a Badeer Mk3 and SVBONY laser but both are probably not collimated and hard the Badeer one I think doesn't even have the option to collimate it. I wish Howie Glatter was available here. (and didn't cost fortune) There is also Ocal Electronic Collimator but I'm not sure it works in the dark. Also is TS Concenter 1.25" better than Cheshire?

It would be hard to do all of this without second person. I mean holding/using that long collimation rod while looking through cheshire and holding a light at the same time in the darkness... 😅 Or maybe I'm too pessimistic but I wish there was an easier way haha.

With cheshire eyepiece don't you need light to go both here: and both mirrors to be able to collimate?

I have to reassemble the scope every time and want to make sure both mirrors are aligned. Normal laser method isn't really trustworthy afaik unless you have some ultra expensive laser.

I have heard of Barlowed (any barlow) laser collimation and that the laser doesn’t have to be itself collimated. Is that an option?