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Posts posted by StuartT
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13 hours ago, Ouroboros said:
I can see how you can make vertical cuts into the foam. But how do you cut underneath the plug of foam you have made? Or are you cutting all the way through?
I actually cut all the way through. For any eyepieces shorter that the full depth of the foam, I simply cut the cylinder of waste foam and then poked it back down the hole to plug part of the depth. (I was quite pleased with that idea 😊)
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So I only joined at the beginning of this month, so I guess I qualify as a newcomer 😉
TBH, I find it very difficult to think of anything to criticise at all! Everyone here has been incredibly friendly, respectful and helpful. Whenever you join a bunch of people who are way more expert than you are, it can be a little intimidating to ask the really basic questions. But on SGL no one has ever made me feel stupid - whatever I have asked - and I was made to feel at home here right away.
It's a really great crowd and I am very much enjoying it. So thank you all! 😊
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Thanks everyone! I actually ended up using one of these and it worked a treat. So I now have a safe and comfy home for all my bits and pieces 😊
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2 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:
So, if you are using a scope and imaging already, what’s with your other thread on using the LX90 vis a computer...?? I am confused...
No, I am not yet using the LPI camera for imaging, if that's what you mean. I just used my Canon EOS for these. But I would like to get the LPI camera working at some stage, and for that I asked about the software.
But regardless of the technology I use to get the images, focussing the scope is a big problem as it's just a manual focuser and the mount wobbles when I try to focus.
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Thanks. I shall try BYEOS to blow up my camera's focussing screen. I think I'll still have problems though because the very act of turning the focuser wobbles the scope something awful!
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Ok, SO many things I don't understand here 🤣
23 hours ago, Clarkey said:BYEOS lets you zoom in and you can focus using a large screen. Also, you can focus on a star using the FWHM value then use this for the moon shots. Alternately you could use a star and a focus mask - again do this before your moon shots. From what I can remember (I have not used it for a while), BYEOS can also be used for planetary and deep sky.
So if BYEOS can show me my camera's back screen on the laptop, that sounds very useful! (though I have no idea what FWHM means)
21 hours ago, M40 said:I took the Baader zoom eyepiece route deliberately due to the options it provides; byeos can focus the camera lens but by adding an adapter the lens can be connected to the Baader eyepiece for afocal imaging or alternatively by using a T2 adapter and M43 adapter, the camera body can be fitted to the eyepiece and byeos can then focus the telescope using an ascom focuser for eyepiece projection. Another option would be to maintain focusing by hand and then look at the laptop screen to see what it actually looks like. Being new to byeos, I can only say that it is very impressive and as a freebie for trial purposes is well worth looking at. HTH.
I literally didn't understand any of this.
21 hours ago, EntropyTango said:Focusing can be a real pain.
Some suggestions include adding a weight to the bottom of your tripod
Something as simple as a plastic bag filled with sand. this will help dampen out vibrations
You produced some nice images, congratulations
Right! Some good tips there. Thanks
And thanks for the compliments. At least I got some kind of an image. But I am literally just starting here
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Thanks everyone for all the encouragement!
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On 18/03/2021 at 18:31, Stuart1971 said:
No it’s not, just Persevere, all the controls are under menus on the right side..
But to be honest if you are only doing planetary then you only need sharpcap and you don’t need telescope control either, maybe you should have led with that, or did you and I missed it....🤔🤔
sorry.. I didn't lead with that. But then again I didn't know you didn't need remote control for planets (I still have a LOT to learn!) What is sharpcap? Another piece of software I am guessing
10 hours ago, michael8554 said:In it's simplest form, to Planetary Image, you only need software to expose and download the camera images (SkyCapture in your case ?).
You move the mount with the handbox to the planet, most of them are easy to locate visually.
But to control this remotely, load software that displays the night sky like a map on your computer, and connects to your mount via the ASCOM Mount Driver.
You click on the image of the object and select GoTo, and the mount moves to that object.
Generically called a Planetarium, versions include the free Cartes du Ciel and Stellarium, or fully-loaded software such as APT.
Michael
ah. apologies, I didn't realise 'Planetarium' was a general class of software. I was thinking it was a specific one.
I did try loading up SkyCapture (which came with the LPI imager), but it seems to not produce a live image. It is extremely jerky (and I am talking about like an image a second) which makes focusing virtually impossible! (I'm sure I must be doing something wrong)
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1 minute ago, Stuart1971 said:
No, that is not guiding, just scope control, in which case APT is deffo all you need....👍🏼
Guiding is when you use a second scope and camera piggybacked on your main one, to follow a single star, if the star drifts then a signal s sent to the mount to move it back, it’s for long exposure astrophotography, and something you don’t need to worry about yet...👍🏼thanks. It's the solar system I am mostly interested in, so I don't think I need guiding.
(I've installed APT and it looks intimidating...😬)
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sorry, do I actually mean guiding? I think I just mean moving the scope around to different bits of the sky. What's that called?
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2 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:
Sorry I had to edit, read last post again....👍🏼
Thanks
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2 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:
APT will do everything, no need to make it more complicated....👍🏼
Awesome! thanks
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24 minutes ago, fwm891 said:
I wish my first lunar images were that good - especially the eyepiece projected shots👍
You are too kind! 😊
19 minutes ago, M40 said:Hello Stuart, the pictures are great and much better than most of mine 👍 I try eyepiece projection and have the same focusing issues particularly as the lcd screen on my dslr does not flip out. To try and adapt, improvise and overcome, I have started to learn backyardeos which is able to focus the camera from the laptop in real time with the end result no wobble or fingers to mess things up. Its a freebie to try, so might be worth a go.
But the focussing isn't done by the camera. It's done by the scope's focuser. So how would an EOS app manage that?
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Sorry, you guys seem to be saying different things (or I've misunderstood)
On 15/03/2021 at 22:07, Stuart1971 said:Yes you need a full capture program, I used to use APT..
https://www.astrophotography.app
this will do everything, once open you pick your camera and scope and it will load the drivers for them and you can use that, but you need to read up on using the software....
So APT will do everything (imaging and guiding)?
On 17/03/2021 at 11:02, michael8554 said:Then use the Meade Skycapture software that came with the camera to image the moon and planets.
(It's not suitable for Deep Sky Objects according to the spec.)
To steer the mount to where you want to image, you need Planetarium software.
But Skycapture will only do imaging and I need a separate piece of software called "Planetarium" for the guiding?
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19 hours ago, Pixies said:
I fund that a disposable plastic knife, blunt pencil and the fossilized jawbone of a cro-magnon man are best.
Well, that's what it looks like I've used whenever I've tried to cut it myself!
Yes, this is exactly what I'm afraid of! I am positive that the moment I start cutting I'm going to make a right old dog's breakfast of my nice pristine foam!
Problem is... I have to do it, otherwise I can't use the damn thing!
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I agree. Clearoutside is pretty useless. We have clear skies right now, but Clearoutside is showing red!
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16 hours ago, Robindonne said:
I made a drawing of the scope and accessories and ordered all the puzzle parts from some online “custom foam shop”.
I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean. What are puzzle parts? You mean the custom foam shop do the cutting for you?
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I just bought a nice aluminium flight case for all my bits and pieces (eyepieces, right angles, etc) but I can't decide the best method of cutting neat holes in the foam block it came with. A Stanley knife is just going to make a mess!
I've heard that some people sharpen the end of a piece of copper pipe and 'drill' into it with that. Any other suggestions?
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Presumably the Bortle for a location doesn't change day to day? (because it's a measure of light pollution). Is that right?
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This evening I took some photos of the moon with my 90mm refractor and Canon EOS750D. The first one is at prime focus and the second two are with an eyepiece projection attachment (Plossl 9.7mm).
I found it very difficult to focus using the back screen on the camera in 'live view' mode as the wobble on the mount was quite bad whenever I adjusted the focusing knob. So my hand was causing so much motion that I couldn't really tell if it was in focus until I'd made each adjustment and waited for the oscillations to die down. I had the same problem with the shutter release (so I used a 10sec delay to allow the wobble to stop).
I set a -2 stop exposure adjustment
Any tips very welcome!
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1 hour ago, Stuart1971 said:
Ascom download here
and the correct driver is the 17th one down on this list
https://ascom-standards.org/Downloads/ScopeDrivers.htm
there is a newer driver for the meade scope, just a couple above in the list, but it’s new and I have never tried that one, but I had success with the one I mention 17th on the list....but you could give it a try, and make sure you install Ascom first...
ok, I've installed both of those. But I'm not sure what program to run now. There's something called ASCOM diagnostics, something called telescope simulator, ASCOM device hub...
The LPI-G camera came with software called SkyCapture, but I don't know if that will steer the scope (I don't think so). So do I need different software for steering?
Err... 😕
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I have a Meade LX-90 and I want to be able to control it remotely and take photos with my LPI-G camera.
Can anyone provide me with some pointers as to what software I need? I have a USB to telephone plug (which will fit in the Autostar handbox)
Thanks
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I tried out my new Herschel wedge today (the Lunt one with an ND3 filter) with my 90mm refractor using eyepiece projection (26mm Plossl) and my Canon EOS750D
I couldn't really see any interesting features. Also found focussing quite difficult (live view mode and the camera's back screen)
Suppose you have to start somewhere.. they can only get better, right? 🤣
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6 hours ago, jacko61 said:
What program/website/app are you using to get that info?
graeme
There's an iPhone app too
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First attempts at lunar photography
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
a couple more this evening. This time again with the 90mm refractor, but at prime focus with a 2x Barlow.
(1/50 sec, ISO 800)