Dougie Smart

Thanks for your advice. I have a decent DSLR as well, but would be good fun to compare images between the dedicated CCD against my DSLR. I'm saving for a better goto mount (i.e. something like a Skywatcher EQM-35 Pro) and would then like to use this type of camera to facilitate in autoguiding etc. Thanks again, Dougie

Hi All, I am considering purchasing a Bresser full HD deep-sky camera (intended type attached) and wonder if it is any good for autoguiding (I can't seem to find any reviews on YouTube)? I was also wondering if it can work as a stand alone camera through your scope instead of using a DSLR (i.e. will it still take long exposures if the ST4 port is not connected to a mount, just the USB 2.0 cable connected to a laptop only))? Hope someone can help. Many thanks, Dougie

Thanks for your help guys 🙂

Hi All, I am considering purchasing a ZWO ASI120MM Mini and wonder if its possible to operate it with a phone or tablet? Is there an app available for it? Just seems like if you want to use it to connect to your mount for auto guiding you either need to use a laptop, ASI 'magic box' that red box (which is rather expensive) or using a Raspberry Pi which seems rather complicated to download all the software etc. If the camera could work off a mobile phone, it would be so much easier and cheaper. Hopes someone can help? Cheers, Dougie

Cheers guys 😁

Hi All, I have ordered a Skywatcher 72ED with field flattener which will arrive in the next few days. I have heard that for astrophotography that a longer dovetail is recommended for this telescope to make it more stable. As such, can someone advise me on whether a 21cm or 33.5cm Skywatcher dovetail would be the best fit for this rig? Hope someone can help. All the best, Dougie

Hi everyone, My friend purchased a Celestron SLT102 last year, and through moderate use, an error code 16 comes up on his NexStar computer (provided with the scope) and now it does not work at all. He called Celestron and was advised to update his firmware, but he is not confident to do this as he is worried that it may damage his computer. He has since sent several messages to them asking if he can just send his computer directly, but they have not yet replied (this was well over 2 weeks ago). His telescope will still be under guarantee and he has a copy of the receipt. Please can someone advise me who the best contact in Celestron would be to resolve this issue (not technical support as they have not been very helpful), and if there is an official UK address which he can post this unit to for rectification? Hopefully someone can help, but if you need any additional information on this topic, please let me know. Many thanks, Dougie

Nice one cheers for the advice 👍

Hi All, I have installed a Skywatcher EQ5 Dual Axis Motor Drive onto my Vixen EQ mount, and wonder if anyone knows the size of the round DC connector that goes into the controller from the powerpack? I was hoping to buy a lead which connects to the controller DC inlet to a USB connection as it seems a bit wasteful using 4 x D batteries. I think using rechargable D batteries may wear out the battery pack over time and is a hassle putting them in and out. With a USB connection, I can just plug the controller directly into a rechargeable power pack that I have already. Hope someone can help. Cheers

I have been using the Polar Finder app, but find after around 30 seconds of exposure on my driven mount through my Skywatcher 200PDS the stars start to trail. I have since installed the polar alignment app and star gate PA apps to compare, and they all give polaris different positions at the set time and location. Can anyone advise what the most accurate polar alignment app is? Cheers.

Thanks for your replies guys. I just wanted to reduce some vibration by stopping my mirror from flicking up when taking pictures, but just glued the mirror to the 'up' position. Rather than holding the mirror once glued to dry, I just put the camera in clean shutter mode which keeps the mirror open and allowed the glue to set for an hour or so. After doing the above, the camera seems to work perfectly, but obviously I can't use the viewer, just live mode which is fine. I am hoping to attempt the astro modification myself soon as I have downloaded a PDF for doing this. If I make a boo boo and knacker the camera, I think purchasing a used mirrorless Canon or Sony DSLR may be the answer. I've had my Nikon for well over 12 years so is due me nothing. If I successfully do the astro mod, I'd be happy to share my findings. Cheers👍

Cheers for the advice. I just ended up gluing the mirror to the open position, rather than removing it. It's an older camera anyway and so think I'll try and remove the filter next to the sensor myself (so I can get more of that lovely red light to enhance nebulousity). Worst case scenario I break the camera, best case I've saved a few Bob.

Hi All, As I have a Nikon D3200, I was wondering if anyone knows a good company who can convert this camera to allow for much better H-Alpha light to enter the sensor? I found someone who could do it, but was charging an extortionate amount (£275 + VAT) to convert it and had over a month turn around time!! Ideally I'm looking for somewhere who can do it for around £100. I tried contacting 'cheapastrophotography', but no one has been back in touch (it is my understanding that he can convert cameras for around £75). I was also wondering if anyone has removed their mirror from a Nikon D3200 as I'm trying to reduce camera shake as much as possible (would the camera still work if I did this (obviously the viewer would not work, so I would need to use live mode only). Hopefully someone can help. All the best, Dougie

Hi All, I currently have a Nikon D3200 DSLR camera and wondered if this camera type has 'exposure delay mode' to minimise vibration when taking long exposures? Effectively, in this mode (if this camera has one), the mirror is raised a couple of seconds before the sensor activates (I assume that the reverse happens when the shutter is closed again). I have had a look in the manual as well as going through the settings and can't find a way of doing this. Failing that, can the mirror be removed completely and the camera still operates (obviously I would loose the ability to use the view finder and would need to do all my pictures through the 'live' mode on the camera LCD screen)? I am planning to send my camera away anyway to have it astro photography tuned so that I can obtain better H-Alpha sensitivity. I hope that someone can advise. All the best, Dougie