savcom

Another point (particularly with more fragile connectors such as RJ45s or RJ12s) is to remember that these are designed as slide contacts.  They do not tolerate much sideways movement, so remember when cleaning these plugs and sockets to ONLY clean in and out of the connector - and NOT side to side across the connectors.

Any stubborn deposits can be removed with a fibreglass pencil - then a rub down with contact cleaner / IPA on a cotton bud.  Wooden stirring sticks are another good choice to help in the cleaning process.  Afterwards (and after any cleaning producs have dried off) a little dielectric grease or contact grease will help protect against the elements too.

Try not to touch any bare, exposed contacts with your skin, either.

One of the other tips to remember is that when you finish a session and bring the equipment in, it is allowed to dry thoroughly before being packed away in (say) an airtight container.

Focusser now received.  Thanks.

Looking forward with continuing my 'frac refurbishment when the workshop warms up a little.

PM sent ...

There's a couple of very nice targets for me here - thanks everyone.

Let's hope we get some clear skies soon!! 

1 hour ago, Chaz2b said:

That Toucan did give some very nice pictures, but I can’t use it with win10 so I bought the C270 as a replacement plus trying to keep costs down.

chaz

My Toucam has died, unfortunately - and that's why I went for a C270.

I have a mixture here.  There's a lot of Sodium lights in the eastern distance, a logistics centre on the industrial centre to the north east - but pretty much no stray light and no street lamps near my garden until the local football club practice.  These latter are Mercury Arc lights: about to be upgraded to LED, so I will have to stamp my foot to make sure they're adequately baffled.

7 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Perhaps you meant to quote somebody else. I’m actually ok with the new LED lights where I live

You'd made the point that the 'Former can be very hard to deal with'.  I was replying to that point.  Sorry for the confusion.

21 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

The switch to LED in my area was positive for me. But it depends on many variables including the location, height & design of the luminaries, the distance between them, the type of LED. I’ve also seen comments about the type of road surface- reflective or not.

Also depends  on whether the problem is light directly accessing your observing spot or general background light pollution. Former can be very hard to deal with 

I've heard that it's possible to discus with some councils about the addition of baffles on the lights to minimise spillage of light into (say) your property.  It's worth maybe asking your council if this is possible.

Bad luck about the possible TIA - hope that gets resolved for you as quickly as possible.

Sorry, I didn't mean to hassle you, but I also have a C270 webcam and I'd seen the same video as you about using the 7/16 drill.  I was going to do something very similar to you and possibly couple it to an old Jessops Newt I have.  My thought is for EEVA.

Might be worth keeping tabs on each other to see how we get on.

Martin

How have you got on with the images? Any joy with these yet?

What are you planning for gathering images? / what targets?

What scope are you running it on?

On 08/02/2021 at 19:40, Sluke321 said:

Hi all,

First time taking the Binoculars out tonight and I lost the end cap for the centre bolt/thread. (See photo)

They are Pentax SP 8x40

 

I have had a quick look on google and can’t find spare parts anywhere. 
 

Can anyone offer some advice on where to find it?Thanks in advance

Don't forget - Pentax are now Ricoh Imaging.  There's a contact form here that may help you if you're UK/Europe-based:

https://www.ricoh-imaging.eu/uk_en/contact/

Good luck

I've seen one come up for sale, but the seller obviously didn't see this, so I'll bump it in case other people are looking to sell or upgrade their R&P focuser for a Skywatcher refractor

Thanks everyone.  It wasn't what I expected first time out and that's for sure!

I had intended to take some more of just the core to allow more leeway with processing these pics but, as I said, the battery died in the camera.

I do have a flattener fiitted to the scope but the spacing isn't right yet (I'm mounting the camera with a 1.25" eyepiece adapter, not a proper T2 mount).  The T2 mount is expected to arrive this week so I'll measure the distances up properly afterwards.

Still chuffed to bits - and Running Man came out quite well too.

1 hour ago, johninderby said:

You can set the automatic follow option for threads ypu start or post in.

Just open the notification settings in your account settings and set the options.

Thanks John

On 27/01/2021 at 16:57, symmetal said:

I have a couple of the Synscan brackets which came with the HEQ5 and EQ3 Pro Synscans which I don't use. The brackets are the same for both of the Synscan units shown. If you want to send a pre-stamped 'jiffy' type bag I'll give one of the brackets to you. It even comes with instructions on how to fix it to the tripod legs.  It weighs 50g to give an idea of postage costs.

 

Alan

Ooh!  Thank you very much!

I foolishly didn't set the 'follow topic' on this so I didn't see your reply.  I'll drop you a PM right now.

Martin

2 hours ago, MrZuiko said:

Hi thanks for the help.......I've managed to get Siril working by downloading version 0.9.12 which has the DSLR scripts which I have processed my first attemptat  imaging of The Andromeda Galaxy,I've posted the image here....I'm very happy with the result even tho there was a bright moon light!

Ash.

I'll take a look.  Where did you post it?

Was the guide I did helpful?  It's helped me remember what order to do things in if nothing else.

My first light for my Altair 72EDF refractor was processed using Siril and finished in GIMP (it was stacked in DSS, however)  I posted it here

On 09/12/2020 at 15:50, Anonymous Astronomer said:

Hello,

You can only use it on one of the individual channels (R,G or B ).

Here is a nice video about image processing that also includes SiriL.

Cheers,
Vlad 

Hi.  I've used the video you linked to and it is well presented.  I have scripted the steps that Scott made in the clip.  I've attached these as a PDF document.

SirilWorkflow.pdf

On 17/11/2020 at 16:36, StevieDvd said:

I have seen a few comments around suggesting adding an aerial to the Raspberry Pi - but it does seem a little tricky and in the case of an ASIair could invalidate the warranty.

However, I did find this page on adding an external wifi aerial to a TPLink portable router in case anyone wanted to try it out.

I'm not sure that the modification works.  I've got one on a modified TL-702 which is connected to an Omni aerial outside.  Monitoring the signal in the garden I find it is no more powerful than a similar unmodified unit placed in a window..

It may work better if I try a directional aerial though.  Not tried that yet.

1 minute ago, johninderby said:

3D print file.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2611384

Or try FLO as I’m sure they could order the SW one.

Thanks - but I have said I have no access to a 3D printer.

I could try a supplier and see if they can souirce an original part.  Hadn't considered that.

(I'm not sure if this belongs here or in the Wanted Classified section, but I'll try here first).

I'm getting paranoid about dropping my handset and it hitting my patio, so I was wondering if anyone can point me at a holder for the handset that attaches to the mount or tripod.  I'm looking at smartphone mounts for cars or tripods as a possibility, but again, it's fixing these to the mount in a sensible way.  I've also seen this thread about a DIY version but I've no access to a 3D printer to get one made. 

Does anyone have any suggestions - apart from the Velcro option which I don't want to explore.

Thanks in advance.

19 minutes ago, Stu1smartcookie said:

Cheating ?... depending on light pollution it was probably a necessary evil , shall we say . But finding the targets oneself does give satisfaction 

Well - they were harder targets.  I'd have rather found the DSOs myself, though, by star-hopping, but the moonlight was pretty bright.

As a beginner, I'm also getting my head around how the heavens move around us as the seasons change. 

I tried binocular observing while my scope and mount were being used for photographing M42.  I managed Mars and Uranus and Andromeda, but gthey were all close to the moon and suffering from moon-glow.  The Pleaides were even worse!

I therefore turned round and looked east and found it was easier to find targets there, where the moon glow was less.  I managed M35 in Gemini and M44 in Cancer.

After the photographs were done I used the GoTo on my EQ5 to find some other fainter items but those were 'cheating' as the mount did all the work.

NGC2264 - Christmas tree cluster

NGC2301 - Hagrid's Dragon / Great Bird / Copeland's Golden Worm

It's not easy starting off and you do need to be both patient and methodical in your movements to minimise shake etc.  Well worth persevering though.

I'm starting the refurbishment of my old, blue Skywatcher Startravel 150/750 refractor and wondered if anyone has bought the newer (white/black) version and has since upgraded the focuser.  If so, do you still have the original focuser and would you be prepared to sell it?

I will try and refurbish what I have got, but I fear there may be just too much play in the unit I have - plus I believe the newer focusers have the 'camera ready' fitting, which mine sadly lacks.

Thanks everyone.