Bibabutzemann

6 hours ago, lrosellpardo said:

I have baader mpcc too, but I don't get this artifacts, in my case with brightest stars appears a secondary reflection.

Is your DSLR full spectrum mod?Are you using UV/IR CUT?

 

You might have missed my edit of that post. It was just a smudge on the CC  

Anyone have an idea what this asymmetric artefact around bright stars could be?

Equipment: 130pds, Baader MPCC, EOS2000D

Never seen this before

Edit: Nvm, it was some weird smudge on my CC 😅 Sometimes i overthink..

CS

On 27/01/2024 at 19:01, woldsman said:

 There's also a bit of tilt which I think I'll have to live with as the focuser upgrade and associated 3d printed base for the focuser introduces this risk

During Collimation Primary mirror, secondary mirror and focuser getting alligned. So if the focuser isnt pefectly square to the tube, it shouldn't cause issues.

For final adjustments of the primary mirror, i use my main camera+CC and i take images of a star rich field with a bright star at the center.

Then in live view i adjust the primary mirror, so that the bright star moves in the opposite direction of the worst corner. 

Then i move the scope to recenter the bright star. Refocus and repeat the procedure until all corners are equal.

When all corners are equally bad, you can worry about correct spacing

On 22/01/2024 at 12:30, AstroMuni said:

I wanted to do the same when I purchased my Baader MPCC but then I realised that if I push the CC into the focuser tube, the tube no longer peeps out into the OTA when I achieve focus. So (if you havent already done so) check if this type of arrangement will help.

I also found that chopping the draw tube is not necessary, even with my Canon. It doesnt protrude enough to cause any issues. I had to unscrew the stop ring of the CC and push it further in along with my extension tube. This only works with my thin 1mm M48 to EOS adapter, not with the standard 11mm EOS T Ring.

Tried new processing techniques on Bubble Nebula and Sorroundings captured last autumn. Roughly 19 hours integration with the l-extreme and 1 hour for RGB Stars

HEQ 5 + EOS 2000D + 130PDS

8 hours ago, AstroMuni said:

Colours have been brought out beautifully for just 3hours. Amazing. What software did you use to process the image?

Thanks!

Mosaic and Photometric Color calibration was done in Pixinsight.

Stetching was done in Siril. To preserve more of the colours, i first apply two moderate arcsinh stetches before doing the final stretch in Photoshop.

At the end i remove the green tint and do some final saturation but with a star mask to prevent oversaturated stars.

CS Patrick

On 26/09/2023 at 18:28, alacant said:

Thanks for looking and do post your 130 nebula images if you've had a go recently.

Ok  Clean shot btw! 

M31 from September, 2 Panel mosaic with 3 hours each.

And here NGC663 & friends

HEQ5, EOS 2000D, Bortle 5

CS Patrick

On 15/05/2023 at 14:38, Astro_by_sona said:

do you think I need a primary mirror clip mask?

 

 

 

Hi, nice setup!

its an easy and cheap but effective tuning for better star shapes and less halo. I bought mine at a shop from austrian astro youtuber Daniel Nimmervoll (liquidart-shop). Its a high quality 3D print in mat black with perfect fit and minimal intrusion in the optical path. (mat is optional for 6 euro)

Another easy fix is to cover the back of your scope with a swimming cap to reduce light gradients.

To reduce risk of tilting its recommended to replace the 2 screws at the 2" adapter wtih nylon tipped screws. Ideally make a third hole for evenly applied pressure. (i dont know where to get those nylon screws though, im wondering that myself)

On 09/04/2023 at 15:15, francis8 said:

I bought a second hand 533 MC  a couple of days ago, I was made up that the sky was clear that night so I was able to test it, wen i was imagen with nina I starting live staking with sharcap and as the images were staking i notice that the hot pixels where not aligning, and when I try to process then with siril and autostrech the image this is the result, staking them with siril didn't work, After dark subtraction, the image contains many negative pixels (99%), calibration frames are probably incorrect was the message every time i try but i tuck the calibrations frames at same temperature and gain  ,   I was using a zwo 585 before that with not problem at all, is it the camera or im i doing something wrong

 

When you dither between every (few) image you would expect that the hotpixels dont allign. These artefacts should go away once you do median stacking or additive stacking with default rejection settings.

I get the same pattern like on your 2nd image when doing addtive stacking and choose "no rejection" as a rejection method.

Comparing your worklfow with this tutorial by Dominique Dhoosche may helps understanding what went wrong: https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/

On 28/03/2023 at 20:36, Lucas_M said:

It was amazing!

Only after i took a look at the resolution image with the trails.

I tried to capture Ceres transit on M100, but light pollution in my location made It Impossible. Only Ceres and stars appear in the field (Borttle 9 here).

At least you got Ceres.😀 I think with Bortle 9 i wouldnt even bother with galaxies or other dim broadband targets. Better use a portable setup and just go out in the fields.

Comparing Signal-Noise-Ratio, 1 hour in Bortle 3 is worth over 100hours in Bortle 9.

On 12/03/2023 at 22:37, Whistlin Bob said:

It's that time of year when I find myself going to back to M42 again. It's just too tempting, no matter how much I tell myself to explore the enormous number of fresh targets available, I can't resist the lure...

This is 10 mins of 10s subs for the core, 40 mins of 1 minute RGB subs for the reflection, and then 2 hours of 4nm dual band in 3 minute subs, taken on an SVBony 405cc and blended in Pixinsight.

My 130pds will be having a holiday for a little while now. 5 years of sterling service from the little newt have convinced me to double down: I've invested in a 150 Quattro which I'm  just having my first steps with. When I get time the plan is to mount it as a dual rig with my 130, but that's a little down the track at the moment...

 

nice one. I wonder if its worth doing narrowband on Orion. Maybe depends on the light pollution, but i think orion is bright enough to prioritize RGB over NB. The nebula is partly broadband and very colourful.

Here is an image of M90 and few other galaxies. I planned to frame it together with Ceres, but turns out that Stellarium isnt accurate by default (realized during imaging, had to add the latest data via solar system editor)

Luckily, Ceres still moved into my framing. During imaging i also realized that there are two additional asteroids in the image. I expanded the catalogue in Stellarium and could identify them as Chloris (124km) and Tiflis (21km).

Also made a gif (had to reduce quality)

All three asteroids are part of the asteroid belt. So the brightness of the asteroids roughly correlates with their size.

If you look REALLY closely, you can see something else flying along the asteroid belt

(anyone watching The Expanse?)

The troubling trio Chloris, Tiflis and Ceres photobombed my picture of M90.

Spot the asteroids!

Resolution here

acquisition: 27.2.23, Germany, Bortle 5

HEQ 5, 130PDS, EOS 2000D ~4hours

Galaxy season has started!

M109 + Phecda. Love the dynamic between these two objects.

130PDS+HEQ5+2000D, 4.5h, Bortle 5.

Edit:

Corrected Version, somehow the Photometric color calibration in Siril makes the image too green..

Hi

Since weather in January was too cloudy, i could image the ZTF comet only on 6.2.2023. It was full moon and the comet wasnt as beautiful anymore, but i like the animations. I did one with fixed comet and one with fixed stars. Not sure which i prefer.

Captured with EOS 2000D, 130 PDS, HEQ5 over a time span of 3h10m. Also full moon from same night

Ugh does anyone know how to make the video size smaller 😄

On 05/02/2023 at 23:55, Rjesus said:

Hey Adam, those are outstanding photos, thanks for sharing. Would you mind saying what was your whole setup when using the Canon 2000D? I'm looking to buy that camara. 

Thx.

In my opinion a used 2000D is the best budget camera for astrophotography you can get right now. I disagree that any 18MP Canon will do better. From my personal experience the Canons before 2000D have serious banding issues. The 2000D gives a cleaner image. Also it has the lowest Read-Noise, (better than the 4000D or 200D), which means you can lower exposure times.

I bought the 2000D after i did a comparison between my old 1200D and the 2000D from a friend. Big difference. It has also higher Quantumn efficiency and 24MP is better for sub 800mm focal length IMO.

I got it used (like new) for 200€. If you would want a APS-C sized dedicated astro cam you would have to spend like 5 times the money for a used model. And honestly i dont think the difference between cooled OSC and DSLR is that big that its worth the upgrade. Only during warmer nights combined  with a dark sky / narrowband the difference becomes apparent.

My next step from DSLR will definetely be a mono camera.

On 03/01/2023 at 10:36, Vuck fox said:

I have a NEQ6 mount and a SW 130/650PDS telescope, I want to replace my Canon 550D with a color astrocamera with cooling. Found several models: Altair Hypercam 269C PRO sensor 3/4 and small pixels 3.3 microns; ZWO ASI294MC Pro sensor and pixels almost  like my Canon;Omegon Camera veTEC 16000 C-sensor 3/4 and slightly larger 3.8 micron pixels.Which of these cameras will give better results for shooting DSO?Could I have chosen the wrong one,then please tell me the right model up to 1500€

For 1500€ i would definitely go for a APS-C sized sensor, ideally with the IMX571 Sensor. A used QHY 268C or a new Lacerta 2600C for example.

Hi,

i did a few imaging sessions on several targets over the last summer and autumn. Only now i started to processing the data (which was a mess, because the flats and lights were all over the place on my drive 😐)

Mid 2022 i switched to the EOS2000D. It has a much cleaner noise than my old 1200D.

My first result is the Eastern Veil Nebula

HEQ5, 130PDS, Baader MPCIII, L-Extreme, EOS2000Da

7 hours of data, Processed with Siril, Photoshop, Starnet

On 29/12/2022 at 09:34, ollypenrice said:

No it doesn't!  

Oh all right, maybe it does.    I  can offer these. They are heavy crops of what is, for a TEC 140 (1 metre FL) at 0.9"PP, a small target. The first is the original, sharpened in Ps using iterations of unsharp masking on different layers.

The second was sharpened first with BlurXT and then with a single iteration of unsharp mask. It has also been through StarXterminator for star reduction, so bear that in mind.

My feeling is that the second has more delicacy and finesse. In the first, the main dust lane has more impact but that's because it has been artificially widened and darkened by USM. The BXT image has the dust lane in better agreement with R Jay GaBay's large telescope rendition here. https://www.cosmotography.com/images/wide_ngc891_2010.html

My image had 7 hours luminance and 2 hours per colour, so 13 hours. That's a few hours shy of what I used to aim for doing galaxies in the TEC.

Olly

GGC891original.tif 1.57 MB · 1 download

The sharpening of the dustlanes looks pretty similar to me. 

But i prefer the first one simply because in the 2nd image it seems the StarXterminator turned into GalaxyXterminator  Many tiny background galaxies are gone

I was always scepitcal towards AI shapening because i felt like it invents new data but this approach seems different. 

I just wish there would be a standalone version, since i really like my workflow with SiriL and PS. I dont see myself paying 350€ to use it.

20 hours ago, roger jerome said:

Thank you.  I think it was about 40 degrees.  I was using a Crayford style focusser.  I do have a motorized one but was not set up at the time.  Here is a frame...

This looks almost the same as your stacked image. I think your final image should come out better, even with such frames. 

But this single frame is too blurry for a c9.25 anyway.

The pixel size of your asi 120mc should be good enough for decent Jupiter images. Dont know if the seeing was really that bad or if its not properly focused. To rule that out i would use a Bathinov mask and focus on a star, before slewing to the planet. 

Hi,

What was the altitude of Jupiter? What is your focusing procedure? 

Maybe you could show a single frame of one of your top 25%

CS Patrick

9 hours ago, Ratlet said:

Could explain how you've got your imaging train setup to get focus without massive ptrusion into the tube or post a picture of how it is different?

As I understand it you're new setup allowed you to put the baader cc further into the focus tube so it needs to be wound in less?

Are you still using a compression fitting to hold the cc or is it all screwed together?

Is this with your osc or DSLR?

Combination of those two should work for a DSLR setup:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/offers/offer_ts-ultra-short-t2-adapter-for-canon-eos-1mm-length_299370.html

https://www.amazon.de/Svbony-Verlängerungsrohr-Verlängerung-Brennweite-Astrofotografie/dp/B07S72HT9R/ref=asc_df_B07S72HT9R/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=501171454772&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12580399997129093878&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9041990&hvtargid=pla-876062391525&psc=1&th=1&psc=1(only the 10mm extension tube is needed)

This reduces the protrusion by 10mm.

Im not sure if i will buy this though. It adds 60€. Maybe i would rather sell my MPCC and buy the GPU CC instead.

2 hours ago, edarter said:

There is an alternative route that doesn't necessarily mean the extra expense of the GPU (over the Baader) or cutting the focuser. You can get low profile DSLR adaptors from the likes of FLO. They add 1mm to the image train rather than the normal 11mm. So you are half way to getting that 20mm needed in order to keep the focuser out of the OTA. This is where I'm at currently and I intend to get the other 10mm by moving the primary mirror up the OTA by 10mm and using silicone sealant to secure it to its mount. Trouble is I can't find details on what screws and springs people have upgraded to in order to move the primary!

What I would say is that the GPU seems to be less sensitive to tilt than the Baader from everyones experience on here, but is significantly more money. So there is obviously a choice to be had there! Baader+ roughly £30 on extras to get the focus tube out of the OTA (or of course chop the focus tube), or go with the GPU knowing you won't have the OTA protrusion problem right from the start. I'm sort of stuck with the Baader route as I had already purchased it so its a no brainer to spend a small sum on the mods rather than £250 on the GPU.
 

Ed

Wouldnt you need an adational adapter to reach the 55mm distance between MPCC and sensor with that 1mm adapter?

2 hours ago, Ratlet said:

I'm considering the 130pds as a first scope to try both visual and astrophotography with an unmodified DSLR.

Is it always the case with it that you need to cut the focus tube to use this for imaging (assuming you use a coma correctors) and does cutting the tube affect it for visual?

What's the current opinions on the coma correctors?  I've heard the baader is good, but tricky to use and looking back through the thread the favourite seems to change with time.

I think the Baader MPCCIII is an absolute steal on used market for like 100€. But i read more good stuff about the GPU CC, which i rarely find used under 250€. Its less tilt sensitive and more future proof in case you want to add a f4 Newt to your collection. Oh another advantage of the GPU i think is, that the focus tube doesnt protrude as much. So i think both are worth what you pay for 🙂 I think i will switch at some point to the GPU

Processed an image from february: IC410

130PDS, EQ3Pro, EOS1200Da

6.3h with L-extreme Filter, 40min RGB for star colors

Processing with:

Starnet v2

SiriL 1.02 - They improved their Background Extraction signficantly, because they collaborated with the team from GraXpert (a standalone tool for Background extraction) . Just select the RPF as interpolation method and see the magic happen 😀

Photoshop - with a new plugin called NoiseXterminator, to reduce noise without losing too much details

I feel like this target needs another 6 hours, because i had to do lots of noise reduction.

i like it too!

Not sure how much S2 will improve your image, but i think adding 2-3 hours of rgb data just for the stars would be nice addition. 

CS Patrick

Nice result!

I prefer the background of the first image, because i think a a bit of noise is good, so that the tiny background galaxies dont get washed out:

But i prefer the m81 of the 2nd image. In the first it looks a bit oversaturated, because the transition from young blue star region to yellow looks a bit too harsh for my taste:

CS Patrick