M40

10 hours ago, Nicola Hannah Butterfield said:

So how do you do your CAT5 ect.

You have two usb devices, one plugs into your laptop and the other end is a powered USB hub. The two are then linked by a cat5e cable. Max 45M on my one.

Dead easy, no software involved, it just works......but...... all USB power is common across all devices.

This means using the powered hub, power for all connected devices is supplied from that. If you switch off your powered hub first, power will come from the only source, your laptop port which has now likely died. You can get additional devices which stop that and your laptop port may be a high power port, but it's far simpler to just turn the hub off last. Hope it helps.

Have a search for a startech USB extender you can get either 5 or 10M USB extenders. They are not cheap but I used the 5M usb2 version for some while with no challenges. Another thing to look for is USB over cat5. You can get very long lengths, I have been using one over about 15M with no challenges. All the best.

Meant to add, you need to be aware of when using hub extenders is that power the extender off last or the USB port in your device may fail because of the load.

Welcome to the site great results👌 and on the gloves side of things, I have found fingerless gloves with a pair of those throw away gloves underneath, just pull off the tips of the fingers as you need, works a treat

I have been following this thread with interest, primarily as my laptop keyboard has partially died meaning I have to cart a keyboard and mouse around, not very practical, so I need to do something. The only AP software I currently use is the AsiStudio for a dabble in EEA with a ZWO camera.

So I am now at decision time, I could buy another laptop and continue as I have been and possibly in the future buy a second small pc and stick it on the mount then learn the associated software etc or alternatively buy a tablet and possibly in the future an Asiair then learn the associated software.

Back to the topic, it has always been my intention to have a go at remote stuff and I can see no reason why the asiair and a tablet is not the logical next step for me at my stage in the game. Just to add, anybody interested in this thread will be approaching it from different levels and abilities and the different opinions have been a very worthwhile read.

Hello and welcome to the site 👌. It's like a rite of passage getting grass on the mirror, it probably came from the cap, mine did   If you haven't already got one, buy a dew shield, that should be the first thing on your shopping list, second get a moon filter, they are not expensive and well worth the money. Very simple install, they just screw/unscrew on the eyepiece.

If you are bringing your telescope indoors at end of play, I would leave the cap off and leave the tube horizontal. As for eyepieces, you will have noticed already how fast stuff moves so I would look at a zoom, as speed of changing magnification is much improved rather than changing eyepieces. I start on the weakest setting to get the field of view you want then zoom in. 

All the best.

On 28/11/2022 at 04:22, bosun21 said:

I know that Sky Safari is compatible with the asiair plus but was wondering whether it can be also be used with Stellarium. Thanks 

I have recently been having a close look at the asiair and after reading your post, it raised the question in my mind, what does sky safari add to the asiair setup? ta much.

2 hours ago, imakebeer said:

I appreciate your suggestion but I'm struggling to buy this explanation...

If this is the case then how come (a) the polar alignment option in the handset doesn't appear until you've done a 2 or 3 star alignment, and (b) there are videos aplenty on YouTube of folks demonstrating this technique, including showing how it reduces the assignment error?

I'm also not sure how it differs from Sharpcap where you align based on stars and then adjust with the alt. & az. bolts 🤔

For your own piece of mind, check the alignment of the polar scope in the mount, this can be done at any time. Focus on an object, spin the mount head mechanically and the object should remain centered in the polar scope crosshairs. If it doesn't adjust it till it does, if it remains centered, you are good to go.

As has been said above, polar align before star align. Look at it this way, the home position and polar alignment mechanically sets the mount to its starting position. If you star align and then mechanically move the mount, the software will send the mount to the wrong position so you will need to start again.

If you have read that you adjust the bolts after star aligning, this is incorrect.

My routine is more or less the same each time. Stick the telescope and stuff on the mount, balance it, set the home position, polar align then 2 star align. The closer you are with the home position and polar alignment, the star align is more or less there with the second star. Looking at your list of stuff, it's well within the capabilities of the mount. I have found with a heavier telescope and heavy bits and bobs added, it's close to the max and the mount does struggle a tad. So quick question, noting you mention "new to me" it suggests that your mount is not new, so, does your mount jump at all? are the clutches slipping?

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Oklop eyepiece bag. Very adaptable and was toying with getting a second.

 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescope-bags-cases-storage/oklop-padded-bag-for-eyepieces-and-accessories.html

I am pretty fortunate in that we have room for a draper type shelving unit. The height of each shelf can be adjusted to suit, so at end of play I just take whichever telescope and plob it back on it's shelf complete with finders etc. Any sort of cupboard with adjustable shelves would work well as Carbon Brush said.

Have a look at the ZWO ASI290MM and see what you think. It seems to work ok with your telescope in the calculators. I also wouldn't change your EQ5 mount until you have tried it as when you add a few bits and bobs to your telescope, you are still within the weight limits of the mount.

Astronomy is great in that we all have our own ways so hopefully others will offer a few suggestions, but I go as simple as possible, I don't guide, so no guide scope weight to be added, I just use a red dot finder, a flip mirror with camera and illuminated reticule eyepiece, a few alignments on bright and double stars then goto the target. Seems to work well. Likewise I have stuck so far with the ZWO software, nice and easy but sooner or later I will try sharpcap. All the best. 

As I understand it, the closer the barlow lens to the eyepiece the less the magnification factor, as such by screwing the barlow to the eyepiece you will reduce its magnification factor. No idea how this will affect focus as I thought that barlows had a focal length determined by the length of the barlow tube.

Much as I love spending other peoples money, I think start with the basics is the sensible option. Dew shield, maybe a zoom eyepiece, TG365 cover, turn left at Orion, planisphere, hat, gloves, red headtorch. Once you have your hands on the telescope, you will soon know what else you want. All the best.

Hello Sassysquish and welcome to the site. I gather that you went through the update process and when it said turn it off, you did and then on turning it back on you have no lights etc? As Carbon Brush said, if you could give a few more clues that would help. All the best.

Interesting question and much as I have the flip mirror and a similar camera in the ASI290, my answer is I don't know, I have so many adapter rings I can't remember which came with the flip mirror 🤦‍♂️

The flip mirror is very versatile and you can move just about everything everywhere but, using my camera, you need a T2 male adapter to fit to a ZWO camera. You could use the camera nosepiece and fit a clicklock or similar to the flip mirror or in my case, I use the ZWO filter wheel on the flip mirror and a T2 male to T2 male to fit the camera to the filter wheel. Hope it helps.

Hello Aristotle1954 and welcome to the site. Just to give you some idea for comparison, I have a set of 10 x 50, light, tripod not needed but expect them to get heavy, you can see the Orion nebula and the Andromeda galaxy from dark areas plus the moon is great. Tripod not needed but a deckchair type seat, gloves and a hat works brilliantly. I also have a set of 20 x 80, heavy, good tripod needed, but recently I have seen Jupiter as a bright coloured dot together with three moons again from a dark area. There are two sections on the site, discussions - Binoculars and Observing with Binoculars, have a good look around to see what people are doing. All the best.

Kevin is superb and I can only assume that he has grown over an extended period of time. Brilliant. So when is Kevin going to get an automated cover 😜

19 hours ago, windjammer said:

My scope stays fully mounted with cam and electronics on an exposed rooftop, and it has been there for 5 years.  See attached pic

That picture raises a few questions in my mind windjammer; the first being is that I have no idea what half the stuff you have there is, which goes to highlight just how varied this hobby is and how much of a beginner I am at it. A further question I have is that I drop stuff everywhere, just how much has fallen off your roof? Amazing setup 👌

Welcome back and perfect timing with Mars just round the corner 👌 Now all you have to do is convince your wife you need an observatory so she can have the utility room back

1 hour ago, Sarek said:

Thanks, yes, I think I know what you mean. I'm really only interested in making fine adjustments. 

I've seen some upgraded bolts on EBay but some people seem to suggest they might foul the polarscope?

I've not found that the bolts foul the polarscope, but the one's I got from ebay do stop you from putting the polar scope cover on. I tend to stick the telescope on the mount then polar align so the bolts do have to move a fair amount of weight, the ratchet adjustment type are a lot easier to use but at the same time if you take the weight of the telescope whilst adjusting, I found that helps. 

Great idea 👌 the base of the box also provides the perfect shelf for all those bits I tend to drop on the floor and then struggle to find 🤦‍♂️ A touch of spray paint later and its sorted. Mine gets quite hot inside the box so keep your eye on the temperatures inside. 

So it begins  Looks a fair sized piece of SWA you have there, 6.0mm? Out of interest, what have you got supplying it? 

Hello BabyJo84 and welcome to the site. As vlaiv says, you have some good kit there so don't look to move it on unless you have to. Lots of points well covered above so thought I would point you in a different direction.

Have you tried bolting the camera to the telescope yet? I have a similar camera and using a similar sized telescope, by bolting the camera to the telescope and taking either a single shot or a series of pictures using an intervalometer you will get surprisingly good results. 

An intervalometer is a cost effective small device that plugs into your camera that enables a series of timed pictures; you may have this built into your camera settings, so worth checking. The intervalometer also has a remote shot facility, well worth using this as it will reduce shake on your mount. You also have the option of using a great free or low cost piece of software called BackyardEos (I think the UK equivalent of your camera is an EOS1200D but do check). Lots of very good info on youtube for backyardeos that will help. All the best.

The upside down flower pot is a great move but go even simpler. Get a piece of plastic kitchen sink waste pipe, cut off three pieces at about 150mm long and once you have your mount polar aligned, bang them into the ground. Pull out the mud and grass from the pipe and drop in pea shingle or concrete. They can be mown over and no one will know they are there unless you look closely. Worked for me until the pier came along. Once leveled, at end of play just leave the tripod legs set at the levelled height. Speed is king. All the best.

15 hours ago, C_H said:

Thank you for commenting. I’m not against buying binoculars instead although I’m sure he’ll be a bit confused at first. After doing some research I’ve realised that telescopes are a lot larger than I was expecting and I probably need to look for something more practical. Can you recommend a decent pair of binoculars please? 

Binoculars certainly have a place, I treat them as a quick grab and go look thing. There is a section within the site on binoculars plus the astronomy magazines do have a binocular tour. Just be aware that much as you will be able to see planets, in mine,  that bright dot becomes a larger bright dot. In saying that, I have a set of Celestron skymaster 20x80 (not the pro version) and recently enjoyed looking at Jupiters moons through them. You will be able to see the Andromeda galaxy plus Orion is amazing. They are also heavy, so budget for a good tripod. So my shopping list would be a set of 20 x 80 binoculars, a good tripod, a planisphere and a wooly hat