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Clarkey

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Posts posted by Clarkey

  1. For planetary viewing aperture and focal length is what you want - so out of these I would go for the dx6. However, given these are manual Alt-Az mounts (without any form of tracking) at long FL you may struggle to keep the planets in view.

    Personally, given your location, I would look at a Dobsonian. Not only are they good for planets, but due to extra light gathering capacity, in dark skies will show you a whole lot more. An 8" Starsense dobsonian is a similar cost to the 6" DX but more versatile.

    On a separate note, I was in Australia a few years ago, in rural WA. They were the darkest clearest skies I have ever seen. If you live in rural (dark) Oz, consider yourself very lucky from an Astro point-of-view.

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  2.  

    2 hours ago, Grierson said:

    contrary to Clarkey I found an improvement in tracking

    I should probably clarify that the tracking on both my mounts is pretty good. Both have been stripped down and have had new bearings and grease, and the HEQ5 is belt modified. I typically get guiding around 0.6  arc seconds which is adequate for all my scopes imaging at 1 - 1.5 arc seconds/pixel. Even at 1600mm FL I do not have a problem.

  3. As a general rule the specific flatteners should give slightly better result than the generic versions. However, I am using the generic Stellamira FF with my 115mm F7 scope and the results are absolutely fine (in my eyes). The SM flattener is £79 whereas the specific one is £130. In reality you won't really know until you try (I might be wrong on this - someone with a better idea of optics may say different). Personally, for a small ED doublet I would try a generic version if the cost difference is significant.

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  4. FWIW I am planning to move my 115mm Starwave triplet to my HEQ5 this coming season. I was using it on an AZ-EQ6 but I think it should be fine on the HEQ5 with a 60mm guidescope and camera / mini PC. I intend to use the larger mount for a larger scope (RC8 plus ST80 guidescope). My HEQ5 has been belt modded and also has new bearings / grease so better than stock. I expect it to be fine at this FL - but I have not tried it yet.

  5. I don't have a GEM45, but it suggests in the blurb a limit of 20 Kg. For imaging you probably do not want to go more than 2/3 of this which puts it in the same range as an HEQ5. I think the 250 may be pushing it. Not just weight, but any breeze is likely to cause problems unless you are in a very sheltered spot. Which Quattro? I assume the 10", which although smaller than the 250PDS is still big. Have you considered an RC8?

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  6. FWIW I have the 115mm triplet with FPL-51 and use it for imaging. Personally, I have found the colour correction to be very good and I am glad I did not pay the extra 50% price hike for the FPL-53 version. This was taken with the scope. (There is a small bit of tilt giving the slight red / blue tinge to some of the stars). It is also a very good visual scope.

    NGC2903_RGB - AP2.jpg

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  7. Signed.

    I would love some of the businesses to take heed of the light pollution issue. Penrith is actually quite good in terms of street lighting. Although it is LED, it is low intensity and all points downward. 90% of the light pollution is the industrial estates and the golf driving range who seem to think it is necessary to light up the entire sky to keep an eye on a few wagons.......

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  8. I think you would see quite a bit of difference with the filter. My guess is that there is some bloat which would be greatly reduced with a UV/IR cut filter. Well worth the £20 outlay for a basic 1.25".

  9. Definitely a good start - keep going. Just out of interest, did you use an IR cut filter? The 585 is quite sensitive to IR and your stars look at bit bloated. Maybe high cloud or something else - just a thought.

  10. I have stripped down, replaced bearings and regreassed an HEQ5 and an AZ-EQ6. Both were pretty straightforward to do. I followed a YouTube guide (sorry can't remember which). Just be methodical and organised - really nothing too it. In terms of performance, there was a noticeable improvement so worth the couple of hours work.

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  11. Firstly, with regards to the mount, there have been varying stories regarding the EQ35 for AP. Personally I would have gone for a used HEQ5 pro for similar money - but as you have ordered it, you will need to use what you have.

    You will need to check the ASIAir works with your camera if you have not checked already.

    As for scope, the Redcat gets pretty good reviews, but is very wide field. There are a number of other offerings with good optics will a slightly longer FL. Ultimately, it depends on your choice of targets and weight limit of the mount. There are plenty of ED doublets or triplet scoped - maybe have a look at some of the Askar offerings.

    I would start with the camera you have. You would need a cooled camera to see any major improvement with will be expensive for a possible short term hobby. Colour is fine to start with but will limit the Ha response without being modified. This will reduce the quality of emission targets.

    Motorised focuser is nice to have but not essential.

    Have a look through the beginners section on the forum. These questions have been asked plenty of times and there is lots of good advice.

    One word of warning. AP is expensive. Be prepared to throw money away to get the images you desire...... Trust me, I know.

    Good luck.

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  12. You also need to consider the FL of the scope you are using. I use an HEQ5 pro to image with an RC8, but that is it's limit. My mount has been disassembled and rebuilt with belts, new bearings and grease and now has low backlash and is about as good as can be expected. When used for visual use below about 1000mm FL refractor  the settling time is virtually zero. Overloaded might be another story.

  13. Yes, I have had a similar problem. I think it to do with encoders in the mount. If you park at the standard home position all is well. But, if you use a different park position the encoders in the mount assume you are in the home position when you turn it on. Nina seems to work from the new park position, but when Eqmod parks at the end of a session the mount goes to where it thinks it needs to be. I gave up using custom home positions and use the standard polar position now. I now just turn off and on in the normal home position and manually move the mount to close the observatory roof. I'm sure there is a way to get it working - but I have tried a few things and it is unreliable.

  14. On 13/05/2023 at 16:30, ONIKKINEN said:

    12 billion years. What does that even mean? The brain department goes blank thinking about these numbers

    Don't even think about it. Your brain will turn to mush and dribble out your nose. 😂

    Well, the universe is only 13.7 billion years old. Why did we bother with the James Webb telescope?

    I think I looked at some Quasars round the Leo triplet - but I think I only managed 10 billion years - 12 billion is impressive stuff.

    • Like 1
  15. I used APT when using a DSLR but switched to NINA with the astro camera. I particularly like the framing tool in NINA. The only problem I have had with NINA is the connection to the mount dropping. This seems to be a common issue and is remedied by removing the mount limits. However, I am not overly happy about having no limits set in case the meridian flip fails whilst I am tucked up in bed.

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