Iceman120

3 hours ago, geeklee said:

Hi Rich - When I had my ASI533, I used the Unity gain setting in the ASCOM driver - this set the gain (100) and offset.  I then adjusted exposure for the scope/lens, conditions and filter.  With a very fast scope/lens, reducing the gain can be an option = the ASCOM driver has three built in presets.  This kept things simple but as with all things, you can experiment and tweak these values. 

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the feedback, I was looking through astrobin with the 533 set in filters and i saw a lot of people using similar settings. My telescope is a Skywatcher EvoStar72ED which is F5.7. 

poiu-07

Hi all, 

So I brought myself a ZWO ASI533MC Pro, If the weather forecast stays true I should be able to get first light with it on Thursday night. Before I get out into the field, what should typical gain and offset settings be? Is it filter dependant? exposure time dependant?

I have a Optolong L-Pro and Optolong L-eXtreme

Shooting from a Bortle 8

Any info will be much appreciated

Thanks Rich

Hi thanks for the replies.

In my immediate area is mostly the sodium type streetlights but if I image to the south, targets tend to sit in the led pollution from birmingham. 

I've looked at the optolong L pro and that seems to do well in bortle 6 but bortle 8 Is a different kettle of fish. 

Rich

Hi all, 

I've just ordered a ZWO ASI 533MC Pro and an Optolong L-eXtreme filter for shooting nebula, but what would be a good filter to get for broadband targets such as galaxies and reflection nebula?

I live in a Bortle 8/9

Thanks Rich

On 05/06/2021 at 16:05, AstroNebulee said:

Thanks Rich. My gain was around 48ish I believe, exposure I can't remember exactly as I've deleted said settings files. I'll upload a video from sharpcap to show my histogram from the next nights imaging. I had read somewhere  you need to get the histogram as a whale looking shape, I found that the histogram around 60 works for me is good enough so adjust your exposure to suit. If I make the histogram any higher the image overexposes to much. I generally use 640 x480 when not using a Barlow and 1280x960 when using the Barlow and high exposure shots to get the moons in as the planets slowly moves across the screen with the increases magnification and take 3000-5000 frames. All in raw8 and.ser files 

Thanks for that and sharing the video. I overexposed my data in the last attempt so at least now i have a base to work from. Thanks again

Great pics mate, I have a similar set up and was wondering what your gain and exposure settings are? And what resolution you're in?

Thanks rich 

Yeah, the zwo works first time everytime but the t7c doesnt until I've already had the zwo plugged in. It's like it needs the zwo to start a script or something

Ok so if I disconnect the t7c and plug in my ZWO ASI120mm mini I get a visual. Then unplug that and put the t7c in again and I get an image. I really don't know why its happening? Sharpcap recognises the t7c as a zwo 120mc. Strange 

Hi all, 

So as the title says, I cant see any stars in sharpcap through my T7C (ZWO ASI120M sensor) hooked up to my Bresser Messier 127/1900 Maskutov Cassegrain F/15. I've used a lens to get the star roughly in the centre and when I put the camera in, I can turn focus both ways, I've changed exposure time and gain and just don't see anything other than Jupiter. Has anyone any experience with this or am I missing something really obvious? and can anyone offer any advice?

Thanks Rich

thanks all 

Hi all,

I'm considering getting a ZWO ASI533MC Pro, Currently using a DSLR, due to the price of a dedicated astro camera I will be forced to sell all my current imaging equipment to help fund it. Before I start pricing things up I was just wondering what you guys think it would be worth as either a job lot or individually? Any suggestions would be great? Pictures can be added if need be.

Thanks Rich

Canon 550D IR filter removed not full spectrum

Canon 550D Stock

3  x batteries

2  x chargers

2 x dummy batteries to use mains power

2x 3m data leads to connect to laptop

18mm - 55mm kit lens, is an EOS but modified the back so it can be used with a clip in filter

Kenlock 135mm F2.8 manual prime lens

Sigma 70mm - 200mm Macro lens

SV Bony CLS clip filter (no case)

Skytech Quadband Filter (has case)

Just saved your image and did an arcsinh10 stretch and you can see the streaking in the darker areas, i think because m42 is brighter you dont have to stretch it as much

40 minutes ago, CraigT82 said:

To be honest I think a 6" f5 newt would do better on both (with  decent barlow for planetary). What kind of mount would it be on? As for camera the 120 is pretty dated but still capable, if you can stretch the budget a 385c has a larger sensor which would be much better for DSOs. 

Hi thanks for replying, trying to keep the weight down as it will be on my eq5 pro max payload is 9kg,, didnt realise the skymax was f12. would it be ok for planetary imaging

Hi guys, 

like the title says, I'm looking at getting a second setup so i can do some planetary imaging and some of the deeper objects. my thoughts are a Skywatcher SkyMax 127 Maksutov and a ZWO ASI 120MC-S.

What's anyone's thought on this?

Thanks Rich

the walking lines are from the static noise in the image staying in the same place, to remove this you need to dither your image and then it gets processed out in stacking but dont know about the colour issue

Hi all,

Been a while since i last posted and had a spell of good weather recently so been out imaging even with the moon out. Had first light of my Evostar 72ED on an EQ5 pro and modified my camera to make it allow more of the HA transmission through. Also brought the SkyTech quadband filter and had some pretty decent results considering we've been battling the moon. 

Thanks for looking

M45 The Pleiades (Seven Sisters) (31/01/21 89% Moon)

106x60s Lights

25 Darks, flats and bias frames applied

Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop

Leo's Triplet (11/02/21 New Moon)

Had a guiding error half way through and caused some problems in post as you can see from one half being really noisy, not quite sure what happened but hasnt happened since.

98x120s Lights

25 darks, flats and bias frames applied

Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop

Rosette Nebula (18/02/21 41% Moon)

61x60s Lights

25 darks, flats and bias frames applied

Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop and went overboard on the saturation

Orion and Running Man Nebula (22/02/21 70% Moon)

75x60s Lights

25 darks, flats and bias frames applied

Stacked and processed in Siril and then fine tuned in photoshop

Horsehead and Flame Neubula (25/02/21 95% Moon)

39x120s Lights

10 darks, 25 flats and bias frames applied

Stacked and processed in Siril

California Nebula (26/02/21 99% Moon)

31x180s Lights

10 darks, 25 flats and bias frames applied

Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop, 

Jellyfish Nebula (28/02/21 100% Moon)

95x60s Lights

25 darks, flats and bias applied

Stacked in DSS and processed in photoshop

thanks for you help. I really appreciate it. 

i've got a 2nd 550d coming friday which i am going to modify. Going to remove the UV/IR cut filter but leave the low pass filter in. From what i can see its the most standard method to boost ha signal. 

I have a zwo asi 120mm mini guide camera. havent used it yet, been waiting for these clouds to disappear. How long would my exposures need to be or is it target dependant?

bortle class 8

Hi everyone,

I've been looking into filters for my astrophotography. Saw this earlier and was wondering whether it would be a good thing having all 4 main bands on one filter. I am trying to keep costs low as I've spent far too much already this year. 

Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Thanks rich 

https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/skytech-quad-eos.html#SID=529

Been looking into this for a while now. I have a canon eos 550d. I see some people remove both filters. Some people remove just the low pass filter and some people replace the filters with astronomik mc clear or a baader equivalent. If I was to remove the low pass filter could I replace it with a cls filter so. Would doing this have a positive or negative effect?

Thanks Rich

I'm thinking of modifying my 550d, rather than buying a ir pass replacement could i replace the low pass filter with a CLS filter? 

thanks guys

Hi all. 

Last night captured the moon with my Canon 550d on an EvoStar 72ED on EQ5 Pro. First time using the mount, didn't read the manual before hand as it was a quick decision after the skies cleared last night at 11:30pm. Couldn't get it to align so just found it manually and put it in solar tracking mode as it was the first tracking mode I could find 😂 First moon picture I've taken that I've been proud enough to post. Think I may have over processed it a bit but got carried away and also did a mineral moon version.

Best 750 of 1000 frames

ISO 100 and shutter speed 1/100

Thanks for looking

Rich

Great images Alan.

For gradient software there is a plug in for photoshop if you have it but it costs 60 dollars.

GradientXTerminator (rc-astro.com)

There is a free trial though