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DeathWarpedUp

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Posts posted by DeathWarpedUp

  1. On 28/06/2020 at 12:39, davekelley said:

    Yes thanks.  I have a 24mm hyperion and that gives excellent views In the F12 Mak as a finder and thinking of the zoom as an 8-20 that's still a nice ep.  Also, my tfov may be a little larger because I have replaced the diagonal with a Tak prism which I believe shortens the light path so therefore the focal length of the scope a bit (enough to notice?).  Thanks for that....

    Dave

    Ive done similar and it works for me, Hyperion zoom and a 40mm W/O Swan. was what I was aiming for. However I got a wider 28/68 to counter the narrow 24mm of the zoom.  Mines an f10

  2. 44 minutes ago, banjaxed said:

    If that is how the banks work it is little wonder so many try ripping people off as they know they will get away with it. 

    I used to work for a major UK bank in their credit card disputes dept. It happens all the, time, there is a bottom line limit where they simply just let it go as it will end up costing more investigating than the claim itself. However they keep a database of those claiming of course and will investigate if there's a persistent offender. However since chip and pin it's a lot harder for people to prove they have been scammed, still happens though.

  3. 1 hour ago, Dantooine said:

    I have an Altair prism diagonal and notice when I lock an eyepiece in, as I tighten the single screw it pushes the eyepiece to the side. Does anyone know if it’s possible to remove the Altair eyepiece holder end and replace it with a 2” baader cliklock type. I have a 1.25” version and it seems to hold things very secure. Another question is, would there be a danger of eyepiece barrels making contact with the prism? Hopefully someone has come across this before. 
     

    Dale. 

    Hi Dale,

    I think you are the one in the position to semi-answer the question. Does the eyepeice holder unscrew itself from the prism?  If it does then the next question is regarding thread size.

    I'm not sure which diagonal you have, but Altair do a 2" prism clicklock type, so it might be worth emailing altair direct they might be able to send you their version to attach/modify: https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/altair-2-prism.html#SID=566

  4. Thank you both.

    Still looking, however based on both your comments regarding a little more is better than a little less im still researching and starting to think about the Altair 30 as an option, some nice write ups and the cost is a smidge nicer

  5. 23 minutes ago, John said:

    Actually I find using more magnification helps to tease out more detail on DSO's. For some targets you need the max true field just to fit the thing in but for smaller ones I'm usually using 75x - 150x or more.

     

    Haha, thats just making my life harder :D:D:DOk, so given the choice in my shoes with my scope what would you go for regarding getting the best out of dso's and nebula of all sizes and shapes for anything up to £200ish in a widefield taking into consideration, quality, ease of use ect 2" only.

     

    Gun to your head time (No pressure) :D:D Anyone else want to play :)

  6. 2 minutes ago, John said:

    It is hard I agree. At F/10 though, your scope does not pose much of a challenge optically to eyepieces so you don't need to spend big bucks to get good performance.

    My expectation would be that a 40 / 68 would perform pretty much the same as the 34 / 68 in your scope but the 40mm would show about 18% larger true field of view at a slightly lower magnification.

     

     

    Thanks John, So in regards to the lower magnification, this should help (in theory) to improve the viewing of some nebula/DSO? Obviously as long as I stay within the realm of the f10 magnification capabilities. Even if only marginal for things like M81, the 40 would be better for teasing out detail, even if only minor?

  7. 3 minutes ago, John said:

    I've found the Aero ED 40mm 68 degree pretty good in my scopes that range from F/9.2 to F/6.5. I use Ethos 21 and Nagler 31 in my F/5.3 12 inch dob.

    The Aero ED and clones are pretty light as well, for 2 inch wide fields.

    In your scope a 40mm 68 shows you a true field of 1.36 degrees and the 34mm 68 1.16 degrees. The Veil, in it's entirety needs around 3.5 degrees but you might squeeze the E or W segment into the 40mm / 68 true field, just !

     

     

    Thanks, the plan ultimately is to keep my EP collection pretty minimal and so im just looking for something that will give me a wide view sweet spot between fov and quality image. to compliement my Hyperion zoom Mk4 which as you know, narrows a bit at 24. As I said in my first post I was recomended a 68/34 for my scope, I just wonder how it compares with a 68/40  and similar ep's. Its so hard to know when you cant try this stuff out in a real setting.

  8. Thank you. This question may sound a bit dumb, as I may be way off the mark in my understanding regarding FoV. In the 68  34 vs 40. Is there much in the 40 that I couldnt see in the 34, I know the veil nebula is a monster ect so not even a 40  might get it all in. but as the ES stuff is generally wider viewing than some other Ep's of similar mag would a 34 be enough to cover most deep space stuff. Is the 40 in most scenarious simply able to see the star/space ect around the objectand the 34 is wide enough to see the whole of most objects, any experience with them anyone?

  9. With the lockdown and recent clear skies, and my house move finally sorted with a garden finally worthy  of even bothering to get my scope out. Im getting back into seeing whats out there.

    I have a cpc 800 SCT and an old set of eyepeices, Ive also recently got the Hypersion zoom Mk 4. And Im looking for a decent widefield EP. Im contemplating the ES 86/34 as this seems the sweet spot for my scope (would a 68/40 be better, or an 82 Degree?), Ideally I want a 2" wide view.  Can anyone give their thoughts, alternatives and recommendations. Its obviously 8" F10. So I think ive done my homework, but i'm happy to be told otherwise. :). Ideally any ideas for a money no object, then something around my price range (or cheaper but will still do the job) or slightly better ect. I'm sure you know the drill :) £200ish.

     

    Thanks

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