Jpr78

Edit, just saw that you tried switching ports on the hub. You should have your baud set to 115200 In EQmod. This will hopefully solve your issue. You will also need to set that rate in your USB/COM port setting for the port you are using.

Finally got around to getting the OIII. I also captured some more SII. Total integration time 4.9 hours.

This is my first attempt at integrating narrowband images. I started with CMOS a couple of months ago and was almost immediately turned off by it my first night out trying to get focus and be able to get something decent and useable. I am glad I stuck with it. To me it feels like an art form incorporating patience, finesse and hard work in the end. Kit - Skywatcher 80ED Pro Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro ZWO ASI183GT MM .85 Reducer/flattener Subs - 20 x 240s Ha @ -15C 20 x 240s SII @ -15C 50 darks Stacked and processed in PI with some finishing touches in PS. I will add OIII data to this image at a later date.

Some more processing done to get the histogram where I wanted it. This was after tvgdenoise and some further curves transformation.

First attempt with ASI183GT MM and narrowband. This image is comprised of 30 4 minute subs and 15 darks shot through a 7nm Ha filter. Scope is a SW 80ED on a SW EQ6-R Pro mount. Not much post processing was done other that cal/int in PI with a little contrast adjustment. I was just excited to see how much detail comes out using a monochrome camera. At first I was having buyers remorse with this new camera and was almost set to sell it and go back to using my D750 but this changed my mind. I am sure if I go through my whole workflow it will look even better. This was taken unguided (I will be going with an OAG soon enough).

While I absolutely love this mount I miss the reticle illuminator in my MEADE LXD-55 mount. I have to bring the led in the EQ6 all the way down to 4 just to make it useable. The red washes even the brightest of stars out of the FOV. What were they thinking???

Thanks guys. I ended up going with the Sky-Watcher EvoStar 80mm f/7.5 Doublet APO Refractor and picked up a corrector/.85 reducer. Felt like that would give me more option as far as focal length and better glass. It also came with some freebies =). I figured the extra few hundred was worth the spend now instead of wishing I had spent it later on.

How is the build quality? Is the crayford focuser nice and solid?

Does anyone have any experience with this scope for imaging? I feel as if this would be the perfect focal length for my new ASI183GT. Seems to have a decent focuser also (dual speed 2” Crayford). It will be mounted on an EQ6-R Pro.

A few were satellites and others the coma was much worse almost looking like double stars.

Thanks for all of the helpful info! I was beginning to think I should have went with the ASI1600mm. No sooner did I buy the ASI183GT with integrated filter wheel and an Ha, SII and OIII filters for $1900 from OPT then they put a package deal with the ASI1600mm, 8 filter wheel and a full set of filters (Ha, SII, OIII and LRGB) for $1799. Still wondering if I should exchange.

The image I posted was with the cover on the scope. The white pixels are making me nervous.

Just got a new ASI183GT and got out last night to take some test shots. I pointed my scope at the pelican nebula and went for a 120s exposure with gain at 400 using OIII. Absolutely nothing came out of the image except some Amp glow on the right and what looks to be dead pixels? At first I though they were stars so I stopped my mount tracking and took another exposure and they were all still in the same spot no trails. Tried again with the cover on my scope and same result. Did I receive a dud? Seems like something should have showed up. I am already missing my DSLR and wondering if forking over hard earned cash was worth it lol.

I am not using any flatterers or CCs. I went through all of my subs. I had to trash about 15 of them. That stack is only 6 subs.

I recently collimated my 10” SN. I bought a laser but I don’t believe they are accurate unless you spend good money. So i used the secondary adjustment first method making sure the secondary was rotated to face the focuser and the tilt was proper. Here i used a laser and measured from the laser as it comes out of the focuser to the edge of the OTA tube and where the laser hits the other side to the edge of the tube as well. I then used a pinhole cap to get all 3 circles concentric through the pinhole (focuser tube end, pinhole and end of the OTA tube). I then adjusted to primary to bring the center donut into the center of everything. After this method I checked collimation with the laserr and it was off center on the primary by half an inch. I trust my manual method much more and chalked it up to bad laser collimation. My issue is with Coma on all of my images. Perhaps someone could shed some light as to whether my oblong stars are a result of coma or bad collimation. It is frustrating because it completely ruined what could have been a great image in my eyes.

Meade LXD-55 SN10 f4. I even used the ZWO ASI1600mm in the equation and still too small of a FOV for M31. Not that M31 is my only target obviously but it’s a good WF reference.

It appears as if I have gone and put the cart before the horse. I ordered my EQ6-R Pro a couple of weeks back to handle my imaging scope. Last week I ordered a cam and filters after doing a little research. Now I have come to find that this camera will be pretty much unusable with my scope. Even with a .85 reducer the FOV is just way too small for most targets. I used astronomy tools FOV calculator with M31 as the target using my scope and cam setup. The only thing in the FOV is the core. Is there anything I can do about this or do I need to exchange this cam for something else? Perhaps I am missing something as I have seen other’s use 183’s with longer focal lengths. I wouldn’t this a tad over 1000mm is excessive.

M13 taken from Bortle class 4 skies at my local observatory. Equipment used: Mount - Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro OTA - Meade LXD-55 SN10 Cam - Nikon D750 Data: - 35 subs @ 90s/ISO1000 - 35 darks - 50 Bias Processing: Integration and calibration done in PI PI: - automatic background extraction - Dynamic crop - Denoise starlet 3 layer - color calibration background neutralization - Histogram transformation PS: - Levels - Deep space noise reduction - Smart sharpen - Enhance DSO and reduce stars - Increase star color - curves adjustment.

Will trying to observe or image with my 10” SN cut FOV on Neowise?

I have terrible OCD about things so naturally I had to loosen the grub screws for the polar scope alignment to rotate the reticle so the 12 and 6 o’clock positions were vertical in relation to the mount in the home position. I positioned a distant target in the center of the 2 outter circles and used the hand controller to rotate the mount. The target stayed in between the circles 360 degrees around. I assume this is perfect alignment? I have heard of others completely unscrewing the scope and melting glue etc. My approach seems to be a much less invasive way to me although you have to readjust alignment afterward. I also modded the tripod for the skywatcher pier. Took me about a half an hour with a drill and tap set. There is now zero rotational movement when you try and twist the mount on the tripod.

I just found one from Skiesunlimited out of PA. On sale for $1420 with free shipping. I wasn’t charged any tax at checkout either...... Is there no tax in PA? Hopefully Skiesunlimited is reputable.

I’m a little disgusted. I’ve been eying this mount for about a month and saved up the cash. The problem now is I found it available on every site for the past month for $1495. Now all the sudden when I go online to order it's no where to be found on Amazon and back ordered on other sites. Where I can find it in stock it’s now “on sale” for $1595..... what is going on here. I’m seriously disappointed.

After about 10 hours of Youtube tutorials I reprocessed the data I had on M31 in Pixinsight. Although not nearly as intuitive as PS i think I am in love with this program.

I have already done a full spectrum mod on my Nikon D7000. I am thinking of going one step further and debayering the sensor. I am a dyi’er not scared of a project. My question is are there NB filters meant to fit into a t adaptor assembly or am I dependent on in camera clip in filters. Google has become useless in the way of organic search results these days so I’m at a loss for any answers there.

Not the greatest. Took some old data now that my workflow is gaining traction and gave it another go. 10 60s subs. No darks or flats. Taken with a Nikon D750 unmodded coupled with a Meade ETX-125 that I no longer have. Stacked in DSS and PP in PS CC using manual and astronomy tools. More data with darks and flats would probably yield much better results.