Celestron4

Thanks very much for the advice. I did use flats, clearly not very good ones though. 

I am processing my data on the Wizard nebula in Photoshop (NGC7380) and have been using the Astronomy Tools Actions set but am struggling to get the nebula to stand out and to bring the smaller details out. It currently stands at approximately 1hr 45 mins of 300s exposures (I am aiming to get more data at some point) and I am using an astro-modified Canon EOS 600D. My main imaging telescope is a Celestron Nexstar 6 SCT with the Celestron 0.63 focal reducer attached, if this helps at all. The image below is one of my better attempts at processing the image and I have attached the original .tif file (it is in 32 bit form and comes straight from DeepSkyStacker). Is there anything I should be doing in photoshop to improve this? Would a light pollution filter help?

Autosave.tif

I installed the indexes the first time I opened it I think. My imaging camera is an astro-modified Canon EOS600D and my telescope has a focal length of 945mm (Celestron Nexstar 6 SCT with Celestron F6.3 focal reducer) if this helps.

I have found the Celestron universal dovetail here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/celestron-universal-mounting-plate-cg5.html. 

Would this work or can you suggest something that could work better?

I am having issues with the PlateSolving software Astrophotography Tool uses. I have all three (All Sky Plate Solver, PlateSolve2 and Astrometric Stacking Program) installed and have looked at the 'Setting up PlateSolving in Astrophotography Tool' thread but still can't figure out where the issues lie. 

The issues are:

1) All Sky Plate Solver (ASPS) gives me the errors (Platesolve error 1 and Platesolve error 2) attached below when I do anything within the software (open settings etc.) and it consistently times out when blind solving through APT.

2) Astrometric Stacking Program (ASTAP) gives me the error (ASTAP error) attached below. I have the H17 database installed (twice) in the astap folder and it clearly can't find it. 

Any ideas how to solve these?

Thanks very much for the advice. I have a guidescope mounted to my telescope so piggyback is not really an options as far as I can tell. 

Thanks for the advice. Would the AVX mount be the better option (what would be needed to attach the camera) or should I just spend a bit more and go for a Skywatcher Star Adventurer or a small telescope (approx. 400mm focal length)?

My main telescope is a Celestron Nexstar 6 SCT and I mount it on a Celestron AVX mount. The telescope's focal length is quite large approximately 950mm with the Celestron f6.3 reducer and I was wondering whether it would be possible to mount my DSLR and telephoto lens on the AVX mount to be able to image larger objects (M43, M31 etc.).  Is this possible and what would I need? My other option is the original Alt-Az Celestron Nexstar Evolution mount that came with the telescope. I know this would not be as good as the equatorial mount but would it track sufficiently to allow me to get some decent length exposures (1-2 mins?).  

(I know that the Skywatcher Star Adventurer or something similar is the best option for this but I haven't got one yet and am hoping to avoid spending a lot of money for the moment if I can!)

I don’t think APT has mosaic capability yet. I know that SPG costs quite a lot so I may look at NINA. Does it work as an image capture software or is it purely for planning?

Thanks for the advice! I’ll stick without for the moment and see how it works.

I’m looking at filters and working out what my best option is for deep sky imaging. According to ClearOutside forecast app I have bortle 4 skies. I have a 6” Celestron SCT on a Celestron AVX mount and have a modified canon DSLR at the moment that I attach via a Celestron SCT T-adapter (I know that I might have to change this if to use filters). I haven’t used filters before and was wondering whether I should I stick to a simple Ha filter or would something like the Optolong L-eXtreme be a better option?

I have a fairly basic astrophotography setup and I have been getting some good results. I have bortle 4 skies according to the ClearOutside app. My equipment is:

Telescope: Celestron Nexstar Evolution 6 

Mount: Celestron AVX

Guidescope: Altair 60mm guidescope

Imaging camera: Canon EOS 600D (Astro modified)
Guide Camera: Altair GP-CAM 130C

Reducer: Celestron f6.3 reducer

Celestron Dew cap for 6/8 inch SCT

Software used: PHD2 (will be ASCOM connection but haven’t tried it yet due to university work and a lack of clear nights), APT (for image capture)

Is there anything I should be looking at to improve my images and/or maximise image time? 
I am looking at imaging the Horsehead Nebula/Flame Nebula and am looking at mosaics due to the large focal length of my telescope (950mm approx with the reducer). Is there anything I need to watch out for if I try mosaics?

I am looking at upgrading to a newer MacBook (I have been using my 2015 MacBook Air to process my images in Photoshop CC and have had no issues other than a lack of RAM and will stick to Mac to make my life easier when it comes to transferring data). Will ProDigital Software's Astronomy tools and other similar plugins work on the new version of Photoshop for the M1 processor or do I need to stick to an Intel chip for these to work properly?

I have recently spent some time imaging NGC 7380 Wizard Nebula and I am quite pleased with the result which is attached. There are some minor issues, the colour balance is not quite right  (I am currently borrowing an astro-modified DSLR and still getting used to it) and some of the stars are not right (particularly when zoomed in). I have previously had issues with coma in my images and have ordered this T-Adapter to try and get the spacing between the camera and focal reducer right. 

Can anyone give me some advice on how I can improve this image please? I am hoping to get some more image time on the nebula but I want to make sure that I make any changes to get the best results I can.

Equipment

Telescope: Celestron Nexstar Evolution 6

Mount: Celestron AVX Equatorial Mount

Imaging Camera: Astro-Modified Canon EOS 600D

Guidescope: Altair 60mm Guidescope (guiding done via 'on-camera' connection, I know not ideal but working at the moment)

Guide Camera: Altair GP-CAM 130C

Image

28 x 5 minute exposures (2hrs 20mins total)

ISO 800

10 x Darks, 40 x Bias and 40 x Flats used 

I have taken some images of NGC 281 Pacman Nebula and have come across some substantial coma around the edges of the image. I am currently using a Celestron Nexstar Evolution 6 SCT telescope on a Celestron AVX mount. I have an f6.3 focal reducer (again the Celestron one) and my main camera is a Canon EOS 1100D DSLR. I have had varying advice from using a camera with a smaller sensor to changing the telescope itself. What is my best option to deal with the issue without having to spend large amounts of money? I have attached the image if this helps.

My budget would ideally be under the £1000 mark if possible. I am aiming to get decent images of deep sky objects (galaxies and Nebulae mainly) and I am aware that a DSLR is not ideal in the long term both due to the lack of cooling and internal filter that removes the red end of the spectrum. A setup that would allow me to get decent images of most objects without spending a huge amount of money would be ideal. 

I have a Celestron AVX mount which is working at the moment and works fine for 5 minute exposures. My DSLR is a Canon EOS 1100D, fairly sure I bought it back in 2013 so it has done quite well all things considered. A cooled camera with a smaller sensor is probably the most logical step forwards at the moment both in solving the coma issue and with better sensitivity to reds. If that doesn’t solve the issue changing the telescope may be the answer.

I have used some calibration frames (darks, flats and bias). I probably don’t have enough darks in particular, wondering if a cooled camera may make this easier due to there being less variation in sensor noise

Thanks very much for the advice. I am looking at what my options are and am now fairly sure that I am reaching the limits of what my setup can do. Is the camera going to become more limiting in the future or is it the other way around?

Removing the reducer would increase the focal length and drastically reduce my field of view, so not ideal. I will have a look at colour CCD cameras to see if I can get one for a decent price. 

Would the use of a smaller sensor minimise the coma on the edges of the images? I have been recommended this camera if it helps.

The focal reducer you have suggested is already a part of my setup and has massively improved the images that I am getting, so a good suggestion! With the reducer using a smaller sensor might be ok. It should still allow some decently framed images if Stellarium is anything to go by!

Is a field flattener or a different camera the best option for minimising the coma?

The image of the nebula looks really good. I will add some more exposures when I next get the chance. 

The focal reducer has definitely helped improve the quality of the images I am getting. I am thinking about getting a one-shot cooled CCD camera, which as you said will make the FOV smaller. Cooling may make a difference and the increased sensitivity to the red end of the spectrum should bring the nebula out more in the images. 

The Aux connection is something I will look at. I assume it’s the INDI mount connection I should be using?