skywest
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Posts posted by skywest
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Thanks guys, that makes more sense now.
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Something I often read but is never explained.
When modifiying a DSLR for astro, the IR filter must be removed but when modifying a webcam for astro the IR filter must be left in place.
Can anybody shed some light on this?
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5 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:
Now there is an aeromodeller!!! 3s lipo - neat soldering - servo extension leads..... 😉
4 hours ago, Geoff Lister said:These are some current measurements that I made on my mounts, including my Skyliner 250PX with Synscan handset.
These are some of my power sources:-
Most of the time I use the 12V, 2A plug-top supply, at the end of a mains extension lead, with the supply (and lead end) in an old shoe box - to avoid any dew problems. I found that I needed to extend the 12V lead to avoid cord-wrap, and used white, heavy-duty, multi-strand, bell flex - the white shows up better in the dark (reduced trip hazard); and, because bell flex does not need the extra insulation outer sleeve required on mains wire, it is more flexible.
Geoff
Oh that's really good info, thanlks. I have loads of 12V 2A bricks from old monitors, I'll try one of those. Wasm't sure if 2A was sufficient so that';s god news.
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44 minutes ago, cletrac1922 said:
I use a car jump start pack
When been away for a week at Astro festivals, has powered my SynScan controller entire time, without need to recharge
Can also get an adapter with multiple multiple lighter outlets, which I use as well
The one I have came from Aldi, and recently had to replace the battery after 10 years of use
Mine has dual 12 Volt outlets, USB and amber work lights lights as well
John
I have a similar one, I need to make up a lead for it and will try it out. Mine is bright yellow as well so less chance of tripping over it in the dark!
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Thanks all, I have bought the 10" from FLO.
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Thanks, just what I needed. I may try my bench power supply first then as that way I can see the current draw in action.
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I have a Sky-Watcher Skyliner 250PX FlexTube GOTO on the way and want to get some power options in place.
I need a cigarette lighter to jack plug cable but don't want to have to make one up. Anyone know where I could buy one?
Secondly, I need to sort out from my big box of mains power supplies an appropriate mains option. Does anyone know the current rating required? I know the power tank is rated at 17 ah but this just means it can supply one amp for 17 hours, doesn't tell me the actual current draw of the goto unit and motors.
any info appreciated.,
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Having researched full time for a week, I have arrived at my ideal scope (visual) - Sky-Watcher Skyliner 200P FlexTube GOTO.
Absolute unobtanium (unless anyone knows different?)
Think I'll take up knitting instead.
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Thanks guys, that clears up a lot for me!
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I've often wondered if these are not compromised by ambient light having half the tube open?
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Me again.
I am considering a Skywatcher 200P-DS and and a goto mount. As the mount is remotely controllable via Stellarium I would like get a camera for either just remote viewing but maybe some casual imaging nothing serious. Could a dslr be used as a live camera over USB or whatever? (i've never owned one). Once all this malarkey is over, I intend to build an observatory with warm room. Try to picture me with my feet up mouse in one hand, watching on a large screen monitor!
Thanks
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On 28/04/2020 at 08:53, JOC said:
I was going to post much the same. I would just question the term "are noisy". Yes, they are noisier when driving fast, but I don't think you would deem it 'noisy'. It makes proportionately more noise the faster it drives, but I don't think its excessive. Maybe on youtube the microphones are just very close to the things being demonstrated?
Ys I did wonder about mic placement. I guess the only answer is to buy one and see!
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20 minutes ago, msacco said:
Yeah that should be totally fine. If you only want the GOTO for tracking and not actually for slewing, then yes.
Also, if you're using a PC(doesn't sound like you're the type), then you could maybe even align using the PC even if you're moving manually, then you could use that to fine slew into the object you're trying to view.
Oh that's interesting. do you mean move manually and then just use Stellarium to do fine nudging? That would be perfect.
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So my follow up question is - I could just manually slew the scope and then just use it for tracking in the wee small hours? I know this then loses the goto function but really I want tracking more than goto, goto being just a bonus. I have been seriously considering just getting a manual eq mount and a RA drive motor - old school.
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1 minute ago, Shimrod said:
They are only noisy at top speed - typically when slewing to a target. On my Celestron AVX, I can set the top speed to be something slower (and quieter) - e.g. 3 degrees per second movement instead of 4. It takes a few seconds longer to get to position, but is a lot quieter in the process. I assume other mounts can do the same, but if noise is an issue check before you buy!
Good info, thanks.
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Hi, Just returning to astronomy after a long time away (before goto scopes!). All the GOTO mounts I see demoed on youtube seem excessively noisy in operation and i suspect i would get a lot of complaints from my neighbours at 3AM with all that screeching and graunching in my garden! Are they really that noisy?
Celestron SLT Mount with Stellarium and Nexremote
in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Posted · Edited by skywest
Hi,
I have a Celestron Nextar SLT goto mount. I have it connected to a laptop via a USB cable and set up for use with Stellarium on com12 for goto and that works fine.
However if it's not quite on target, I have to go use the hand controller buttons to center it. Is there any way to do this from the laptop?
I tried Celestron's own Nexremote software but whereas that works fine on it's own, to communicate with Stellarium it uses virtual a comport setup which apparently only works on old XP/NT systems!
Can anyone enlighten me as a beginner with this stuff.
[EDIT] Solved